What amp (mm6's)

Systems
Systems Posts: 14,873
edited November 2003 in Car Audio & Electronics
i bought some mm6's a few moths back and decided to finally hook them up. I was wondering what amp you guys would suggest. preferably something under 300 bux maybe under 200. im only going to have 4 speakers hooked up and a sub. Any suggestion are welcome. thanks
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Post edited by Unknown User on

Comments

  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited October 2003
    profile ca800
    200x2
    3 yr warranty
    $180(www.crutchfield.com)
    -Cody
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited October 2003
    Thanks, i was actually just looking at that amp. Im new to car audio and was wondering., my sister gave me her bazooka sub she had and was wondering if i could use it on that amp. My head unit is a sony cdx-ca900x , it has a sub out on the back. so im wondering if i even use that. and if not how to hook up the sub(bazooka). thanks
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  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited October 2003
    not a fan of bazooka and i really disgust sony...
    that said:
    you cant beat a free sub...
    the bazooka sub?
    whats its rms rating?
    can u put up a link to show it on the web somewhere?
    and yeah...youll use the preout on the back of your head unit to hook up the rca cables to the amp
    -Cody
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited October 2003
    my bad, its actually not a bazooka, its anm enclosed woofer, my sister told me wrong, anyway heres the link, http://www.kenwoodusa.com/product/product.jsp?productTypeId=46&sortBy=price&productId=473 just want to make sure i can hook this up to the amp u suggested. above
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  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited October 2003
    if you have a car...and put that thing in your trunk...i doubt youll hear it very good if at all
    you dont need an amp for it...it has an internal amp that comes in the enclosure
    its only 60watts rms
    which IMHO, is totally worthless for a sub...your front speakers are going to over power this thing tremendously
    even if you dont have a car and this thing is in the cabin with you...i really dont think youll hear it
    sorry if this was not what you wanted to hear...lol
    -Cody
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited October 2003
    thanks, when i get my amp ill see if it makes a difference or not. Also how do i go about hooking it up.
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  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited October 2003
    hooking up the amp or the sub?
    -Cody
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited October 2003
    the sub
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  • geralopez
    geralopez Posts: 115
    edited October 2003
    I have same problem selecting an amp for this stuff. I'm trying to select a good amp for my 2 components MM6 but I can't find a good one with 4CH handling at least 100W per channel. MM6 are rated at 150WRMS. The only one I found its a MTX Thunder 1004, it give you 90WRMS x4 @ 4ohms with 12.5DC or 125WRMS x4 @4ohms with 14.4DC (Dynamic power).
    I'm think it is a good option for $320.00

    GLopez-
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited October 2003
    i'd go with two 150 x 2's before i'd go with a single 150 x 4 or anything there abouts. any 150 x 4 is gonna have other intentions -- ie... most likely being built to be bridged to a dual 4 ohm coil sub. and provide about 1000 watts of class AB power to what would otherwise be subjected to a 2 ohm stable D.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited October 2003
    for the sub...i really dont know...i havent hooked up a powered sub before...im guessing you would get a 10awg wiring kit...and a pair of rcas...hook up the wire to the battery...rcas to the head unit...and that should be it
    -Cody
  • C-Man
    C-Man Posts: 307
    edited October 2003
    To install the sub, all you have to do is get a set of decent RCA patch cables and run them from the sub out on the back of the deck to the input on the sub. I don't believe there is a remote turn on... but if there is you'll need to run a thin 18 guage wire from the blue remote turn on wire on the back of your deck to the turn on on the amp. Run 10 guage power wire directly from the battery to the sub and 10 guage ground wire from the sub to a spot on the chassis fairly close to it (within about 3 ft is generally recommended).
    That said, a friend of mine bought a similar enclosure.. a Kicker Impulse. 50 watts rms in a sealed enclosure in a hatchback. That thing would pound away pretty good to be honest. I was really surprised. I've never heard this particular one but I think you might be pleasantly surprised, especially if it's in a hatch or truck. Now once you throw 300-400 watts on that set of MM6's you'll definately be wanting a whole lot more like Cody said. That is if you're like most of us where nothing is ever "good enough." :D
    "The Big C"
  • geralopez
    geralopez Posts: 115
    edited October 2003
    Here is my intention for the 4CH amp. in my 300M.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited October 2003
    Thanks for your guys help, i was curious on where mot people mount the subs and tweeters. I have a 96 dodge ram and the speakers will fit in the original mounting places in the door, the magnet barly clears the window.. hehe, anyway i wasnt sure if this is a good place the mount the speakers or not, the sub is mounted on the bottom of the door and the tweeter on the top of the door.
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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited October 2003
    JP - u mean like a woofer and tweeter, not a subwoofer.

    a subwoofer would be like a 10" or 12" or whatever sub that would get a couple hundred watts of power and go under your rear seats...

    however, ya - i've gota 99 ram xcab, and i've got polk 6.5" woofers in the doors and tweets on the top of the door... that's pretty much ideal for the vechile -- i've tried other ****, and the only thing i think would be better would be the woofer in the kick panels facing upward a little -- but that requires fiberglass kicks - and costs like mucho dinero.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited October 2003
    ok thanks, i guess ill just mount them in the original speakers holes, thanks all.
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  • MTXMAN
    MTXMAN Posts: 682
    edited October 2003
    one word of advice for Geralopez... DON'T PUT MTX ON YOUR MIDS AND HIGHS. their power is great for subs but i would never run amps that dirty on highs...
    Hemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited November 2003
    I know Im late into this one but how about an Alpine V Power 4 channel? $200 and maybe you can get it on sale for $170 like I did mine! It aint the most powerful thing in the world but its clean. I bought it and the 2 channel version for my sub to hold me over til I can get my baby; Precision Power 5 channel. $850!! Ouch
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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited November 2003
    "JBL... JL Audio... Fosgate... Precision Power... Orion- Orion- Orion... whatever you do, don't forget your bass."


    -- its the opening line of a kick **** song.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited November 2003
    audison 4.300
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited November 2003
    Originally posted by coen
    audison 4.300

    www.audison.com
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