Connecting Amplifier ? Help please.

tapeshc
tapeshc Posts: 135
edited October 2003 in Speakers
Will be getting my first amplifier Rotel RB-1090 by end of next week. So preparations are on. I want to keep it separate from my HT setup.

Some real dumb qs.

1. Can you connect DVD/CD player audio out directly to amplifier. With built in processor the audio out should work isn’t it ? Actually I don’t know what role pre-amplifier plays ? I don’t have funds to buy a pre-amp and cant use HT receiver as that set up cant take this AMP. Is it possible or I will have to go for an pre-amp.
2. What kind of interconnect cable should I use, cheap & good not the best & pricey.
3. What speaker cables, I use monster speaker cable right now. Simple pink ones.

Speakers would be either of these.

Magnapan / Polk Lsi9/Lsi15 / ACI Saphire / B&W 603 S3
Thanks

Tapesh
Post edited by tapeshc on

Comments

  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    edited October 2003
    Sure, you can connect whatever source you want to the amp. You won't have volume control though unless you have a player with volume control.

    I thought the rotel receivers had pre-outs??

    BDT
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • organ
    organ Posts: 4,969
    edited October 2003
    You're going to need a pre amp or a receiver with pre outs. If your DVD player has a volume control then you're fine. If it doesn't you won't be able to use the amp. You need the pre amp or receiver with pre outs to control the volume. An amp has no voume control.

    The interconnect and speaker wires is up to you. You can spend big or little. Monster is fine.

    Maurice
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited October 2003
    1. You can direct connect your DVD to an amp if: The DVD has an output control; or your amplifier has output control.
    2. Try Kimber PBJ's or Audioquest Sidewinder/Copperhead/Diamondback.
    3. I've been toiling with speaker wires for 30 years and 2 things I've noticed: (flamesuit, ON) (a) bare multi-strand wires made the music sound congested/disorganized (for lack of a better word). There is one exception: Analysis Plus cables are spectacular, and very competitively priced. (b) Solid core wire renders a smoother midrange and grain-free treble. These are my observations, your mileage may vary. AudioAdvisor still has AudioQuest Granite speaker cables at a ridiculously low price (60% off, I think). This is an outstanding speaker cable and A/A will terminate the ends anyway you want them. Whatever you decide on, get a cable with a minimum "cumulative" gauge of at least 14awg. The "Granites" come in at 9awg, I believe. Keep in mind, this is a stiff cable, and probably best served for audio-only systems. I did try AudioQuest "Type 4" and did NOT like it. Too "thin" sounding, and lacked ambience.

    Again, personal evaluations based on my components.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • dcarlson
    dcarlson Posts: 1,740
    edited October 2003
    IMO, I'm finding more and more that cables are just as important as any other component. Specifically when you're talking very good components such as your Rotel. You can easily get by with cheaper cables, just keep in mind that your system can sound dramatically better with higher quality cables. (if you can afford them of course) ;)

    Kimber PBJ is a good start, for a little more I'd look more at the Kimber Hero's. I've done a shootout between the 2 and also Audioquest diamondback and a couple Chord I/C's as well. The Hero's were the clear winner for me and I've never questioned the choice other than going with some more expensive Kimbers.

    I'm guessing you're planning on setting up a killer 2 channel system with that amp. I'll recommend getting an aftermarket power cord. I've very recently had an extremely surprising and dramatic result with a Cardas Cross power cord that I'm now getting another one for my CD player.

    It may sound like a waste, but try and see. ;)

    My 2 channel system.
    Rotel RCD1070 CD player
    Cardas Quadlink (on CD player picking it up today)
    Kimber Hero Interconnect
    Musical Fidelity A3 Integrated Amp.
    Cardas Cross Power Cable (on amp)
    Kimber 4vs Speaker Wire (soon to be replaced)
    Polk RT1000i (eventually will be replaced)
    Thorens TD-160 Turntable

    BTW, is there a reason you chose that amp?
    SDA-2a, Anthem Pre-2L, Anthem Amp 1, MF A324 DAC, Rotel RCD1070

    Senn HD650 Cardas, Mapletree Audio Ear+ HD2, Kimber KS1030, Bel Canto DAC2, M-Audio Transit, Laptop.
  • tapeshc
    tapeshc Posts: 135
    edited October 2003
    Thanks a lot for helping me understand imp. of pre-amp.

    To explain why I asked that, Here is what I got.

    Denon AVR-3300
    Denon Cassette Deck DRW-580
    Sony 300 CD Changer CDP-CX555ES
    Sony DVD Player 560D
    VCR SLV-N80

    This setup is HT and lives in a Ikea wooden cabinet with no space left.

    So when I purchased Rotel RB-1090 for my ST setup my problem was it wont fit in my current ent. Center being so heavy and oversized.

    So that’s why I got this freaky & stupid idea that I can do without pre-amp.

    Now this is how I have solved this. I am going with Antique Sound Lab’s tube pre-amp AQ2004 DT. Its just $299.00 and tube too. Best price best tech.

    Even otherwise I had plans of moving to Tube ST setup and keeping Rotel in HT setup.

    New system
    Sony 300 CD Changer CDP-CX555ES
    ASL AQ2004 DT PreAmp
    Rotel RB-1090
    Speaker – B&W 604/Polk Lsi9/ACI Sapphire

    Speaker I will test with my new system and decide which one to go with.

    So tell me am I on the right track ?

    Thanks

    Tapesh
    Thanks

    Tapesh
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,663
    edited October 2003
    IMO, yes you are on the right track. A tube pre and SS amp are the way to go. For cables I recommend MIT's Shotgun series and PS Audio Statement power cords. I found this is a combo that can't be beat and yes, cables make a huge difference. I think that after you get the pre and cables, you'll find the CD player will be the weak link. If you're going for the best sound those mega changers and universal players just don't cut it. Have you considered getting into SACD? The Sony 555ES SACD player is a great piece of gear and doesn't cost that much. It plays redbook very well, much better than most dedicated CD players in that price range. If you really want to step up, get the XA777ES. Keep us posted as to your progress.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,663
    edited October 2003
    dcarlson,

    I noted with interest your comments on the Cardas Cross power cord. I haven't listened to one because I went on the opinions/reviews of others, but they all say the pc is dark/ kinda veils the sound. Was your system too bright before and it helped with that or did it open things up and breath life into the sound? Cardas makes some nice stuff, their Golden Cross interconnects are reknown as well as their binding posts, but not their pc's. Same as MIT, great cables, but not their pc's. I look forward to your response.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • dcarlson
    dcarlson Posts: 1,740
    edited October 2003
    Huh. ;)

    This time around, I've not read any reviews. I just plugged it in. It took a good 4 days for the Cross to settle down and show what it can do. I could see it getting some bad reviews for that fact alone, handle the cord too much and you'll have to wait for it to settle again. My system was showing a lot of brightness and harshness with the Signal Cable power cord. The Cardas did tame things, the noise floor is much lower than before and imaging has also improved. Veiled? In my setup, I haven't found it to be. Although, I'm also toying with the Quadlink on the CD player as we speak, it's only been burning in for 2 days. I can give a better opinion once it's done.

    What power cords have you auditioned?

    **Edit**
    I'm curious. ;)
    SDA-2a, Anthem Pre-2L, Anthem Amp 1, MF A324 DAC, Rotel RCD1070

    Senn HD650 Cardas, Mapletree Audio Ear+ HD2, Kimber KS1030, Bel Canto DAC2, M-Audio Transit, Laptop.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,663
    edited October 2003
    Ah, that's why I asked if your system was bright. The general consensus seemed to indicate it could tame that, but darken a more neutral set up. Glad it has helped with your set up.

    I'm afraid my pc auditions have been limited to a MIT Z-cord and the PS Audio Statement, I choose the PS. It just sounded right.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • dcarlson
    dcarlson Posts: 1,740
    edited October 2003
    I'm just venturing into the power cord world. It's unbelievable what they can do to a system.
    SDA-2a, Anthem Pre-2L, Anthem Amp 1, MF A324 DAC, Rotel RCD1070

    Senn HD650 Cardas, Mapletree Audio Ear+ HD2, Kimber KS1030, Bel Canto DAC2, M-Audio Transit, Laptop.