How much Epoxy (JBWeld) needed for a pair of speakers?

Mystery
Mystery Posts: 2,546
edited June 2012 in Vintage Speakers
Planning on getting some cheap epoxy from HFT and would like to know how many pair of speakers 1oz epoxy can serve.
There are different sizes from .34 oz, 1 oz to 3 oz etc.:rolleyes:
I have 3 pairs (4, 5B and 7) to apply epoxy.
I just want to apply them on 4 places, not all around the magnet.
Thanks for suggestions.

Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited May 2012
    IIRC....I did all eight 6.5" MWs from my SRS2s with just one package (2 tubes) of JB weld, and that was full circumnavigations ! Arrrgggg! :lol: Do yourself a favor, go to a Michaels or other arts & crafts store and buy one of these:
    JBer.jpg


    Don't wear a good shirt, and have fun !!!!:cheesygrin:
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited May 2012
    gdb wrote: »
    IIRC....I did all eight 6.5" MWs from my SRS2s with just one package (2 tubes) of JB weld, and that was full circumnavigations ! Arrrgggg! :lol: Do yourself a favor, go to a Michaels or other arts & crafts store and buy one of these:
    JBer.jpg


    Don't wear a good shirt, and have fun !!!!:cheesygrin:

    Thanks for reply gdb. So 1oz should be good enough for me.
    Funny you mention that thingy. I went to a garage sale just last week and didn't want to come empty handed so picked up one of those for 50 cents.
    BTW, what do you call that thing? It's not a putty knife.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • audiobilly
    audiobilly Posts: 351
    edited May 2012
    +1 To gdb^^^ on the tool!

    I did 10 drivers with one "JB weld tube set", 4 places on both sides of the magnet. I believe that package was 2, 1oz tubes.

    May I suggest that the application tool that you buy is not metal (ferrous material). I purchased a metal spatula, and upon the fist application learned that a plastic (non ferrous) material would have been less problematic. I was not a cool as I thought I was!:redface:
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited May 2012
    Mine is carbon steel, it's commonly referred to as a troll's tool.....JK ! it's called a palette knife.
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  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited May 2012
    Buy the loctite epoxy stick
    quick easy and not as messy
    roll it in your fingers like a big booger to mix the 2 parts and stick it on.
    hardens in 2 minutes
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

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  • audiobilly
    audiobilly Posts: 351
    edited May 2012
    I had problems with that adhering to the magnet and metalwork. It seemed to not stick to it very well. The JB weld is messy, but worked like a dream. Just say'n,,,,

    brgman wrote: »
    Buy the loctite epoxy stick
    quick easy and not as messy
    roll it in your fingers like a big booger to mix the 2 parts and stick it on.
    hardens in 2 minutes
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited May 2012
    I'm gonna try real boogers !:razz:
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited May 2012
    gdb wrote: »
    I'm gonna try real boogers !:razz:

    Eewwwwwwwwwwwww! :eek:
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • script56
    script56 Posts: 11
    edited May 2012
    less is better
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    Thanks for replies.
    Now few concerns.
    I read other threads on applying epoxy and got confused.
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Are you putting it all around the magnet?? If so there is no need to do so, four places around the top and bottom of the magnet.. Your 5jrs may need it around the basket and magnet as well, some of the older Polk drivers magnets are not rivited to the basket.. You can take a flashlight and shine it in the spider area to see if they are or not..

    So where exactly do I apply the epoxy? Around the magnet or on the basket?
    How do I check whether the driver has rivets or not?
    geoff727 wrote: »
    If I'm reading the first sentence correctly.....where the front plate of the magnet attaches to the basket is not necessarily where the concern should be, obviously since these are riveted (like Larry said, some aren't). It's the joints in between the magnet, the front plate, and the back plate where things 'let go'. I am just using a thin bead of JBW around both those seams, smoothed with my fingertip, and cleaned from the magnet with Goof-Off (this is cosmetically motivated:rolleyes:)...
    G~

    So epoxy the seams around the magnet? :question:
    A picture of before/after JB Weld will really help here.
    Thanks

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited June 2012
    Instead of the tool gdb used (which looks good by the way) I used round toothpicks just roll it onto a toothpick and roll into the area you need. I did both magnet and basket on my drivers can't hurt.
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited June 2012
    Mystery wrote: »
    Thanks for replies.
    Now few concerns.
    I read other threads on applying epoxy and got confused.



    So where exactly do I apply the epoxy? Around the magnet or on the basket?
    How do I check whether the driver has rivets or not?


    So epoxy the seams around the magnet? :question:
    A picture of before/after JB Weld will really help here.


    Thanks

    Here you go, from TF66: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?98202-JB-Welding-your-magnets-on-your-old-drivers&highlight=glue+magnets

    When I did mine I wound up putting epoxy around the entire magnet rather than doing 4 sections. Probably overkill. For a spreader I used the then thin end of a wooden shim. It's what I had handy and it worked like a charm. If you're like me you'll want to have plenty of paper towels around to wipe off the excess!

    Gloves are good too, the latex or vinyl kind like you see in doctor's offices.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    drumminman wrote: »
    Here you go, from TF66: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?98202-JB-Welding-your-magnets-on-your-old-drivers&highlight=glue+magnets
    ...
    Thanks for the link.
    That looks little complicated than I thought.
    Do you have take everything apart like that? :eek:
    I was hoping I could just apply epoxy on the back of the drivers.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited June 2012
    NO !!!! Take Nothing apart if the driver is functioning properly. You just want to immobilize everything right where it is ! Frozen up ???? That's a whole 'nother story !

    Weird...tried to eliminate the double "it" caused by the site, either 2 or none is all it will allow !!:eek:
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited June 2012
    What GDB said! TF66 was only showing ruined drivers to illustrate how they're constructed.

    The epoxy is the dark gray stuff that he applied in two places: between the front cover plate and magnet and between the back plate and magnet.

    Here are some different pics, see post # 53: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?97719-SDA-1C-s-are-ready-for-the-upgrade-bug/page2&highlight=weld

    More pics here, though he used a different (clear) adhesive than JB Weld. It's a little hard to see: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?88059-magnetic-shift-insurance&highlight=magnet+shift

    Not difficult to do at all.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    gdb wrote: »
    NO !!!! Take Nothing apart if the driver is functioning properly. You just want to immobilize everything right where it is ! Frozen up ???? That's a whole 'nother story !

    Weird...tried to eliminate the double "it" caused by the site, either 2 or none is all it will allow !!:eek:
    Okay got it. :idea:
    drumminman wrote: »
    What GDB said! TF66 was only showing ruined drivers to illustrate how they're constructed.

    The epoxy is the dark gray stuff that he applied in two places: between the front cover plate and magnet and between the back plate and magnet.

    Here are some different pics, see post # 53: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?97719-SDA-1C-s-are-ready-for-the-upgrade-bug/page2&highlight=weld

    More pics here, though he used a different (clear) adhesive than JB Weld. It's a little hard to see: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?88059-magnetic-shift-insurance&highlight=magnet+shift

    Not difficult to do at all.

    Thank you.
    Will give it a try this weekend. :loneranger:

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited June 2012
    Buy paper towels ! :wink:
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    Found an AK thread with a picture I like. :)
    http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=447617

    BTW, is this only for Polk speakers or same goes for others such as Advent, ADS etc???

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited June 2012
    All my old Advent driver's magnets......would require repeated hammer blows to go anywhere!:eek::lol:
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    gdb wrote: »
    All my old Advent driver's magnets......would require repeated hammer blows to go anywhere!:eek::lol:
    Is that after epoxy or before? :rolleyes:
    Good to know that my NLA and prodigy tower drivers were made to last. :)

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited June 2012
    duplicated....
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited June 2012
    No epoxy needed on the vents. Foam ??? Whole 'nother story !!:cry:
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    gdb wrote: »
    No epoxy needed on the vents. Foam ??? Whole 'nother story !!:cry:
    Thanks for the reminder.
    My 1st refoam job was NLA followed by Prodigy.
    So far my refoam experience is limited to those two and both came out good. :)

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited June 2012
    I'm still procrastinatin' on my Advents, I'm having to much fun listening to Polks for the moment!:wink:
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    So the magnet shift happens to Polk monitor series only or even RTA 8TL's?
    Is there a date since Polk upgraded the glue?
    Thanks for info.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited June 2012
    I would JB weld anything built by Polk before 1995. Original Monitors, SDA's, or RTA's original and later versions like your 8TL's.
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  • goofyGAguy
    goofyGAguy Posts: 545
    edited June 2012
    Mystery wrote: »
    So the magnet shift happens to Polk monitor series only or even RTA 8TL's?

    Happened to one of my RT15's. :frown:
    My humble setup...

    ...is no more. :cry:
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    goofyGAguy wrote: »
    Happened to one of my RT15's. :frown:
    Sorry to hear that. I'll plan on epoxying my RTA 8TL's as well.

    Thanks all for comments and suggestions.
    I finally have few drivers open.

    I happened to get a frozen mid of S8 this weekend and was really confused to see everything looks normal.
    The magnet is perfect and solid. When I shake the speaker, nothing moves and everything is aligned perfectly.

    My assumption as shifted magnets would have something visible like loose magnet, twisted metal or something.
    I've attached a pic here with highlighted area for my confusion.
    Now, if the magnet is not moving at all in this driver where I'm supposed to apply epoxy, how did this happen to this driver and how epoxy will prevent frozen driver if all epoxy does is makes the outside strong?
    Or, is there other things that can freeze driver besides magnet shift?

    Also, I see 3 places for epoxy, one on top side of magnet, one on bottom (red highlighted) and the third is between the basket and the magnet cylinder piece (highlighted in blue) but I'm afraid epoxy will sip in the crack if I apply between the basket.

    Thanks for clearing my confusion.
    _MG_8634-small.jpg

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited June 2012
    The "shift" amounts to one half of the air gap that exists between the voice coil and the silver/pole piece. (not a big distance):wink:
    Disclaimer: my experience is limited to the vintage 6.5" MW drivers only.
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    gdb wrote: »
    The "shift" amounts to one half of the air gap that exists between the voice coil and the silver/pole piece. (not a big distance):wink:
    Disclaimer: my experience is limited to the vintage 6.5" MW drivers only.
    Thanks for comment gdb.
    I'll just apply epoxy to the magnet and the silver base for peace of mind.
    Still not sure how that prevents the magnet from shifting as drivers can freeze with perfect non-moving magnet.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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