Recapping my Adcom 545

kidglove13
kidglove13 Posts: 207
edited February 2014 in Electronics
Looking for a little help on recapping my Adcom 545.

Is there any good resources or write ups for recapping these amps?

What caps would I use to recap?

Upgrades etc.?

Thank you
Post edited by kidglove13 on
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  • sda2mike
    sda2mike Posts: 3,131
    edited May 2012
    precd recapped his gfa 555...you might want to shoot him a pm..
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited May 2012
    check www.diyaudio.com

    all sorts of adcom diy info.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • sonichermit
    sonichermit Posts: 1
    edited February 2014
    I am brand new to this forum and have a few questions regarding recapping my Adcom GFA 545. I started work on it and so far havhave removed one of the large Towa 10,000uf 63V cap. I need to know how to tell which of the two solder lugs on the top of the cap is negative and which is positive. One lug has a bit of a stamped knurl pattern on it and one is just plain. This is actually more of a job then sometimes portrayed. There is difficulty in removing these large caps due to the claps. I am replacing with Nichicon military grade caps with screw on terminals. That decision was made because I wanted caps of the same basic size and diameter. Hope it was not a bad choice. It will require some changes in how the buss rods are attached. Concerning the other caps on the pc boards it appears as though I will need to unscrew the entire heat sink assembly along with the pc boards to get under them and desolder the 47 uf and 4.7 uf caps. Any tips or information in this regard will be a big help. Certainly do not want to blow up the unit by incorrect connections to those large caps.
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,500
    edited February 2014
    On Snap-In and Lug Terminal type capacitors, the knurled rivet indicates the negative terminal. Negative terminal can also be indicated with color band or arrows on capacitor body.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,378
    edited February 2014
    For electrolytic caps in the signal path, I can recommend the Nichicon Fine Gold (FG) and Nichicon MUSE (KZ). My little Parasound amp and pre-amp sound sooo much better.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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