Polk Audio LSi Home Theater Build
One Dolla Wells
Posts: 13
Original Post:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?130783-LSi-Series-Home-Theater-Project
So I have gone through 2 Tv's already and I am currently waiting for the Panasonic 65" VT50 to come in. I originally purchased the 70" Sharp LED with '240 Aquamotion', which I returned due to motion blur and artifacts during all motion. Then I went plasma with the Samsung 64" d8000, which had near perfect image quality. However, the pn64d8000 suffers from a loud buzzing that is audible even over low volumes at a distance of 12'. I upgraded to the 2012 Samsung 64" e8000 pn64e8000, which has an even more stunning image and the same audible buzzing. From everything I have read about Panasonic plasma from AVSForum it appears that there will be less buzzing. The noise from this buzz actually makes my ears ring after viewing in addition to being just plain annoying. I will update this post with a review of the Panny once it arrives.
Equipment has changed since the LSi Series Home Theater Project post:
Samsung 64" Plasma e8000 pn64e8000 (soon to be the Panasonic 65" VT50 p65vt50)
Onkyo tx-nr809
Emotiva XPA-5
Emotiva Interconnects
LSi9 Ebony, LSic, LSiFX, DSWpro66wi
Raxxess Economy Speaker Stand 36" tall 12" top plate
12 gauge Rocksford Fosgate Speaker Wire (from local car audio store)
SEWELL Silverback Banana Plugs
SEWELL Premium HDMI cables
PS3 fatty, Xbox 360, Wii, CPU
I would like to thank the forum members for influencing my decision to go to a dedicated amplifier, decide placement of the speakers, and suggesting sound isolation solutions. This is my first Home Theater Build and your input has been invaluable to knowing how to construct this room right the first time. It has also been expensive.
I had originally planed on using 12 gauge wire that I had ordered from SEWELL direct. I tested the size of the wire and realized that it is NOT 12 gauge wire. It is more like a 14 or 16 gauge. After looking for true 12 gauge at FRYS and other retailers with no luck I called in a favor from one of my vendors in the Auto Industry. He set me up with a local car audio installer who carried the real deal. Should be great for in wall insulation too.
Demolition, framing, and wiring is complete. Currently decoupling the walls with RSC-1 clips and Hat Track, insulating, and then putting up the drywall, taping and floating.
We have built a staggered stud wall to mount the plasma and center channel on. This will provide sound isolation and allow the wall to carry the load. The two perimeter facing walls have a half wall constructed that will provide a ledge for two of the walls. The original 1960 single pane window has been replaced with a dual pane (with different thickness glass) sliding window. The window will ultimately seat a window plug to prevent sound from bleeding out. I am decoupling all the other walls and ceiling with RSC-1 clips and Hat Track. This will hold Sound FX drywall which is essentially two high density gypsum boards with Green Glue sandwiched in between. The outlets have been a challenge. I have had to find boxes that travel out from the studs to allow for depth of the resilient channel. I am also using Quiet Putty to isolate these boxes.
Heres the fist wave of project photos... enjoy.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?130783-LSi-Series-Home-Theater-Project
So I have gone through 2 Tv's already and I am currently waiting for the Panasonic 65" VT50 to come in. I originally purchased the 70" Sharp LED with '240 Aquamotion', which I returned due to motion blur and artifacts during all motion. Then I went plasma with the Samsung 64" d8000, which had near perfect image quality. However, the pn64d8000 suffers from a loud buzzing that is audible even over low volumes at a distance of 12'. I upgraded to the 2012 Samsung 64" e8000 pn64e8000, which has an even more stunning image and the same audible buzzing. From everything I have read about Panasonic plasma from AVSForum it appears that there will be less buzzing. The noise from this buzz actually makes my ears ring after viewing in addition to being just plain annoying. I will update this post with a review of the Panny once it arrives.
Equipment has changed since the LSi Series Home Theater Project post:
Samsung 64" Plasma e8000 pn64e8000 (soon to be the Panasonic 65" VT50 p65vt50)
Onkyo tx-nr809
Emotiva XPA-5
Emotiva Interconnects
LSi9 Ebony, LSic, LSiFX, DSWpro66wi
Raxxess Economy Speaker Stand 36" tall 12" top plate
12 gauge Rocksford Fosgate Speaker Wire (from local car audio store)
SEWELL Silverback Banana Plugs
SEWELL Premium HDMI cables
PS3 fatty, Xbox 360, Wii, CPU
I would like to thank the forum members for influencing my decision to go to a dedicated amplifier, decide placement of the speakers, and suggesting sound isolation solutions. This is my first Home Theater Build and your input has been invaluable to knowing how to construct this room right the first time. It has also been expensive.
I had originally planed on using 12 gauge wire that I had ordered from SEWELL direct. I tested the size of the wire and realized that it is NOT 12 gauge wire. It is more like a 14 or 16 gauge. After looking for true 12 gauge at FRYS and other retailers with no luck I called in a favor from one of my vendors in the Auto Industry. He set me up with a local car audio installer who carried the real deal. Should be great for in wall insulation too.
Demolition, framing, and wiring is complete. Currently decoupling the walls with RSC-1 clips and Hat Track, insulating, and then putting up the drywall, taping and floating.
We have built a staggered stud wall to mount the plasma and center channel on. This will provide sound isolation and allow the wall to carry the load. The two perimeter facing walls have a half wall constructed that will provide a ledge for two of the walls. The original 1960 single pane window has been replaced with a dual pane (with different thickness glass) sliding window. The window will ultimately seat a window plug to prevent sound from bleeding out. I am decoupling all the other walls and ceiling with RSC-1 clips and Hat Track. This will hold Sound FX drywall which is essentially two high density gypsum boards with Green Glue sandwiched in between. The outlets have been a challenge. I have had to find boxes that travel out from the studs to allow for depth of the resilient channel. I am also using Quiet Putty to isolate these boxes.
Heres the fist wave of project photos... enjoy.
Post edited by One Dolla Wells on
Comments
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Nice, keep up the good work! Last time I got that involved, I sold near all my tools after completing the job so I'd never do it again.:cheesygrin:
For thick walls you can use electrical box extenders. They make them for both plastic and metal boxes.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Here is the room before the demo. This photo is taken from a door that has been moved to the left wall. -
nice!@!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Today we begin encapsulating the room in Sound Fx Drywall today I will post more tomorrow.
