Adding Birch plywood or MDF layer to the outside of the existing cabinets?
kidglove13
Posts: 207
Ok so i have done some searching and found very little
Would it be feasible to add a layer of birch plywood or MDF to the outside of the my SDA's?
I feel that it would be easier for me to do instead of trying to re-veneer them.
And then I would refinish the new outer layer
I would bevel the front edges as not change the dimension of the front baffles.
I know it will add alot of weight but they are going anywhere any time soon.
What do you think?
Would it be feasible to add a layer of birch plywood or MDF to the outside of the my SDA's?
I feel that it would be easier for me to do instead of trying to re-veneer them.
And then I would refinish the new outer layer
I would bevel the front edges as not change the dimension of the front baffles.
I know it will add alot of weight but they are going anywhere any time soon.
What do you think?
Post edited by kidglove13 on
Comments
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Bad idea...The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Why?
Even if it is just 1/4 inch. -
Altering the cabinet would harm the tonal qualities of the speaker IMHO. The resonance of the cabinet were factored into the design to begin with, and changing that would make it sound very different. You will get more bang for the buck and better sound by replacing the tweets with RDO's and rebuilding the crossover. If those upgrades don't work to your liking, I would just get another speaker.The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
I would not be doing this for the sake of sound but for the sake of refinishing the outside.
Will applying a 1/4 skin of mdf on the outside really affect the the cabinet sound qualities that much? -
what series of SDA do you have?The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
1B's
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After doing more reading this would be more trouble than just re-veneering thanks
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If you have a decent lumber yard in your area ask if they carry 3/16th" door veneers.
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Veneer the sides and replace the end caps with something nice."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Like nooshinjohn said it would change the tonal characteristics of the cabinet. This would be something you would want to try at your own risk and determine if you like it or not. I personally think, if done properly it is a great idea. Generally speaking (notice the generally) just as it is not preferable for electronics to add anything to the music or alter the sound the same goes for the speaker cabinet panels. Sonically speaking, you would not want to alter the inside of the cabinet unless you thoroughly understand the design process. However, Altering the outside, (again considering only sound)does not change the internal reflections, back-waves, resonant nodes, tuning frequencies, standing waves, etc, of the cabinet design. At least not to an audible level. What it would and could change would be the resonant properties of the cabinet panels. Normally, it is considered best to have a "dead" cabinet; with no panel flex or vibration. These are things we can hear and that add to the music we listen to. So effectively adding a layer to the outside of the cabinet, if bonded properly should stiffen and dampen the cabinet panels for a cleaner sound from the speakers. Essentially bracing the cabinet from the outside. Keep in mind that this is ONLY from a perspective of sound. Doing this would probably hurt the value of the speakers tremendously, no matter what it sounded like. I like the basic idea, but I would prefer to simply build new cabinets with extra thickness and not tamper with the original cabinets. If someone was a good enough woodworker to do what you have proposed properly they could build cabinets almost as easily.
Even though the principles are good, I'm with the others here; I wouldn't recommend it.If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
If he did add to the outside, it would only deaden the cabinet more, it's not that big of a deal as you guys are making it out to be.
But, changing the exterior dimensions would be an issue due to bass shelving or baffle step compensation in the crossover. In this case, since the SDA was designed to be used near or against the rear wall, it may not be much of an issue at all."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
I say "go for it". A re-skin with a real wood veneer is an EXCELLENT idea.
It's unlikely to HURT the sound, and 1Bs have no monetary value to hurt, either. For reasons that escape me, old SDAs have poor resale value other than the last-generation models; and then it's only "moderate". Even with rebuilt crossovers and upgraded tweeters, I wouldn't expect to get $500 for mine. Probably more like $300 around here--if I could sell 'em at all. I've got nearly that just in the upgrades.
I think it's a great idea if you don't like the look of the speakers "as is".
The original finish on 1Bs is woodgrain vinyl. Good luck refinishing that. Might as well buy some contact paper for kitchen cabinets. -
If he did add to the outside, it would only deaden the cabinet more, it's not that big of a deal as you guys are making it out to be.
But, changing the exterior dimensions would be an issue due to bass shelving or baffle step compensation in the crossover. In this case, since the SDA was designed to be used near or against the rear wall, it may not be much of an issue at all.
I agree that I would not recommend doing what is proposed by the OP. However. I consider a "dead" cabinet a very big deal. Though these cabinets are decent to start with, they are by no means dead. I have not measured one of these cabinets and therefore do not know the specific frequencies the panels that it consists of resonate at. I do know that deadening any cabinet that has any amount of panel resonance tends to clear up the mid-range due to eliminating sympathetic vibrations that add secondary cabinet output and tends to create phase issues by the time the sound reaches the listeners ears. it also helps to solidify the bass by reducing cabinet flex and therefore enabling the driver to accelerate and slow at a quicker pace. This produces a tighter more accurate bass.
Considering the original baffle width of 16"*( I believe), even if one used 1/2" panels in addition to the original cabinet the baffle step region would only shift from roughly 850hz at 72 degrees F to around 750. This is given that the edges are squared and the grille is not used. If the edges are rounded and/ or the grille is used. This frequency will may or may not change at all.
Bass shelving is unlikely to be nearly as much of a consideration as changing the SDA inductors.
I do not recommend it but also believe that from a perspective of sound it is likely to only improve the situation, if done properly.If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
How wide is the 1B/1C Studio?
How wide is the SDA-SRS 2?
Essentially the same speaker except the SRS 2 is wider, taller, and has a larger passive radiator.
For that matter, how wide is the 1C (non-Studio)? -
How wide is the 1B/1C Studio?
How wide is the SDA-SRS 2?
Essentially the same speaker except the SRS 2 is wider, taller, and has a larger passive radiator.
For that matter, how wide is the 1C (non-Studio)?
My 1C's (non studio) are 16" wide and my 2A's are 16" wide not sure about the others.If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
Thanks for some good responses
I look at it this way.
Since I will be removing the drivers and doing the epoxy and dynamat thing, its one of those how far do I go with it?
Refinishing the cabinets at the same time means that the SDA's will be down for quite a while.
I do have other speakers to put into rotation but after listening to the SDA's it will be hard to listen to the other speakers because they were a significant upgrade for me.
Or do I just do the drivers and live with the cabs for now, they are not horrible.
Also what do folks use to clean the cones of the MW's?
