SDA 1B's and my new base idea
kidglove13
Posts: 207
So my 1B's have those crappy bases on them
I have some nice pieces of 3/4" flat stock trim material
I want to remove old bases and them attach the new flat stock to the bottom on a flat and then mount my spikes to the new flat stock
Then I do not have to worry about drilling excessive holes into the MDF bottom of the speaker
what do you think?
I have some nice pieces of 3/4" flat stock trim material
I want to remove old bases and them attach the new flat stock to the bottom on a flat and then mount my spikes to the new flat stock
Then I do not have to worry about drilling excessive holes into the MDF bottom of the speaker
what do you think?
Post edited by kidglove13 on
Comments
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I just spiked the existing bases of my 1Bs.
Drill hole for, and install T-nut, thread spike into T-nut. Level speaker, use jam nut to secure spike. Done.
If your existing bases are already mangled, sure, build new bases. Mine were in adequate condition to begin with. -
My bases are far from suitable to put spikes in them
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I just spiked the existing bases of my 1Bs.
Drill hole for, and install T-nut, thread spike into T-nut. Level speaker, use jam nut to secure spike. Done.
If your existing bases are already mangled, sure, build new bases. Mine were in adequate condition to begin with.
You actually drilled into those MDF bases and put spikes in?
How did you do that into the end of 3/4" MDF without the stuff falling apart?
I would like to see how you did that -
kidglove13 wrote: »You actually drilled into those MDF bases and put spikes in?
How did you do that into the end of 3/4" MDF without the stuff falling apart?
I would like to see how you did that
Easy. Pre drill the holes and then use a t-nut. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »Easy. Pre drill the holes and then use a t-nut.
I know how to do it
I just dont see how installing spikes into the end grain of 3/4" MDF is going to very strong, old MDF at that
Maybe I am missing something here -
when i did mine I bought a 2x4x8 solid oak mitered to the same dimensions as the old base. I then drilled 1/4" holes where i wanted the spikes and ran a threaded 1/4" rod completely through the new base and secured with lock nuts. The spikes will never come lose and i can still level if needed/ The bases were then bolted all the way through the 2x4 base and the cabinet itself. I then put a little hot glue under a fender washer and used a lock nut to tighten down and hot glued over that. The 2x4 base is on the 1.5" edge so now they also set about an inch higher than before but it is rock solid and strong as it ever could be.
You can also get solid walnut 2x4x8 but my budget didn't allow for that at the time and i may revisit it to more closely match my cabinets but the stain used came very very close it's just the grain doesn't match. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »Easy. Pre drill the holes and then use a t-nut.
do not recommend unless you never plan on moving them too easy for the PB to fail.... -
do not recommend unless you never plan on moving them too easy for the PB to fail....
Thats what I am trying to say.
I think that it would be asking for failure to mount spikes into the end grain of those bases
I will pass on that technique -
do not recommend unless you never plan on moving them too easy for the PB to fail....
They've been through 2 moves, slid on carpet and tile, and one hasn't failed yet. I used wood glue to hold the t-nut in as well. -
kidglove13 wrote: »You actually drilled into those MDF bases and put spikes in?
How did you do that into the end of 3/4" MDF without the stuff falling apart?kidglove13 wrote: »I know how to do it
I just dont see how installing spikes into the end grain of 3/4" MDF is going to very strong, old MDF at that
Maybe I am missing something here
I drilled and spiked my 1Bs about a dozen years ago. Maybe longer. 3 spikes per cabinet.do not recommend unless you never plan on moving them too easy for the PB to fail....
It's not like they're under a lot of stress. It's virtually all gravity-loaded; with some minor horizontal vibration stress from driver motion.
Yes, I pick the speakers up to move them. I don't try to slide them across the carpet.
Not rocket science. Simple, easy, effective. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »They've been through 2 moves, slid on carpet and tile, and one hasn't failed yet. I used wood glue to hold the t-nut in as well.
Then consider you're self lucky. Most studio models have very sketchy bases that I personally would not want to try that on. If you have regular 2b's then I can see that as on option. -
Is your base a true wood base?
Isnt there a difference between the 1b and studio 1B bases? -
All 1Bs have the same sort of cabinet as the 1C Studio.kidglove13 wrote: »Is your base a true wood base?
Isnt there a difference between the 1b and studio 1B bases?
It's crappy particle-board. Still spike-able. -
Isnt there a difference between the 1b and studio 1B bases?
There was only the one regular version, no studio model.
Just take the riser platform off, use some 1" high spikes to retain the original height or get some 2" high spikes if you want to raise the speakers up a bit. Either way, use T-nuts to mount them. Drill the holes only deep enough to mount the T-nuts.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
There was only the one regular version, no studio model.
Just take the riser platform off, use some 1" high spikes to retain the original height or get some 2" high spikes if you want to raise the speakers up a bit. Either way, use T-nuts to mount them. Drill the holes only deep enough to mount the T-nuts.
This ^^^^ or make some solid risers and go from there..
