Tannoy D100 cap upgrade.... To mod or not to mod?
thetawave2
Posts: 268
Hey guys. I read somewhere on here that around 20 yrs old, speakers tend to benefit from replacing the capacitors. My Tannoy D100s, having been produced in the mid nineties, are coming up on that birthday fairly soon. I was wondering how difficult it would be for a first-time speaker modder to upgrade the capacitors. Would it be worth buying a soldering iron and my time and effort? Is there anything else I could do in there fairly easily while I'm at it (e.g. resistors)?
Although I haven't done any work with electronics in the past few years, I did use a soldering iron for some simple projects back in my tech classes in middle school, so it's not a foreign concept to me. And, I'm no electrical engineer but I do have a good grasp of the basics from my physics class. If the project would give me a good return so far as performance, I'd definitely be willing to read up on it, do a bit of research, shop around for the caps, et c.
Although I haven't done any work with electronics in the past few years, I did use a soldering iron for some simple projects back in my tech classes in middle school, so it's not a foreign concept to me. And, I'm no electrical engineer but I do have a good grasp of the basics from my physics class. If the project would give me a good return so far as performance, I'd definitely be willing to read up on it, do a bit of research, shop around for the caps, et c.
My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
Post edited by thetawave2 on
Comments
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I also have a pair of Polk Monitor 40s I could practice on, if a practice run would offer valuable experience....My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
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I think they would beneifit. My SDA 1Cs certainly did.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
The first thing you need to know are the values needed. Do you have a schematic? If not, pull a crossover to see if you can obtain the values for the caps and resistors.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Tannoys generally have very simple crossovers, give it a try."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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As above, I would suggest it redoing the crossovers because they are so simple on those speakers and the benefits should be more apparent and cheaper than complex crossovers.
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The first thing you need to know are the values needed. Do you have a schematic? If not, pull a crossover to see if you can obtain the values for the caps and resistors.
I don't have a schematic and I doubt I'll be able to find one online. Doesn't seem to be much info on these babies on the 'net.
I haven't yet gotten into the guts of my speakers. Anything I need to be careful of when pulling the crossover, or can I pretty much just undo the screws on the rear panel?My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers -
I got a schematic directly from Tannoy! I do know basic electronics, like the symbols for capacitors, inductors, and resistors seen in this diagram. I'm sure it will make sense when I pull the crossover and have something real to match it up to. This looks like a very simple project.
So what would I be looking to upgrade? I hear talk of replacing capacitors all the time and sometimes upgrading resistors. Anything else to the project?My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers -
I would lean towards leaving the inductors alone unless you know the exact DCR of the woofer coil and it's not an air core.
As for caps, I'd recommend the Claritycap ESA. Tannoy uses them, along with the MR and SA in some of their current speakers. I believe some high end KEF models use them too."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
I would lean towards leaving the inductors alone
Yeah I thought so too haha
Thanks for the recommendation on the caps!
By the way, here's the schematic I got from Tannoy.
My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers -
Like I said, cheap, simple schematic.
For the LF circuit, you can use a single 18uf cap instead of the 10+6.8, it's within tolerance and may be cheaper. If there isn't one readily available, then the 10+6.8 combo is fine. Their server is currently down, but check out Madisound for prices and availability."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
I undid the rear panel of my speaker just to have a look and I was able to identify the components of the crossover. Doesn't look too intimidating.My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
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I just did some cap upgrades..... and I would more lean towards with Mundorf Supreme Caps with some Clarity Cap SA's or ESA's....
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
This linked helped out a lot. -
thetawave2 wrote: »I undid the rear panel of my speaker just to have a look and I was able to identify the components of the crossover. Doesn't look too intimidating.
But you are going to do direct connect and breadboards right? Cause its not going to be remove and replace cause more expensive caps are much bigger.
Take a look at the VR3 Fortress mod thread to give you some ideas. -
IMO, Mundorf caps are not as good as ESA's."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
How did you feel about the mundorf supremes?
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slider2828 wrote: »But you are going to do direct connect and breadboards right? Cause its not going to be remove and replace cause more expensive caps are much bigger.
Take a look at the VR3 Fortress mod thread to give you some ideas.
I figured the upgraded caps would be bigger but I didn't know they could be THAT much bigger. I'll have to look at the dimensions and the thread you suggested, too!My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers -
They're a step up from Dayton, but nothing special. Not really a fan of the S/O either, it was a slightly more refined Solen cap for a lot more money."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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I've calculated the project to be $110 for ESA caps (if I do take one 18u cap as "close enough" to the 16u8 pair of caps specified in the schematic) versus $64 bucks with SA caps. Any idea of the performance difference I can expect if I go with the ESA over the SA?
Also, my amp has a fairly "hard" top end. Is there anything I can do with resistor or cap replacement in the HF network that might "soften" or "sweeten" the treble a little?My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers -
ESA's will have tighter bass and better imaging.
I would usea Mills resistor to help mellow things out."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
ESA's will have tighter bass and better imaging.
I would usea Mills resistor to help mellow things out.
I do like imaging and tight bass.... Is it enough of a difference to justify paying almost double, do you think? I'm really on the fence for ESA vs SA....
Thanks for the recommendation on the resistor, too!My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers -
Yes, it's definitely worth the extra $."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Yes, it's definitely worth the extra $.
If I'm gonna do it, might as well do it right I guess! ESA it is.
I found Mills resistors on Parts Express. The schematic calls for a 2.2 ohm resistor, but it appears Parts Express stocks 2 or 2.5 ohm resistors, and not 2.2 ohms. Should I do a couple in parallel to try to get closer to 2.2 ohms, or should I call it "close enough" with one they have?
I really appreciate all the input on this!My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers -
Sonic Craft carries a 2.2ohm. http://www.soniccraft.com/mills_resistors.htm"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Great! Thanks. This might not be happening in the next few days, but I'm really excited.My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
