Spikes for SDA 1C ???

nhhiep
nhhiep Posts: 877
edited April 2012 in Vintage Speakers
I don't have a drill or feel like using a hammer to install spikes/feet to my SDA 1C. does anyone know where I can get the type of spike that I can install by using a screw driver? SDA 1Cs don't look stable on the carpet.

I like the feet from the Rti A series, how do they install? anyone has a close up picture?

Thanks
Post edited by nhhiep on
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited April 2012
    Forget it if you can't do it right. 1C's are much to heavy for a cheap "screw in" spike. The first time you go to move them or pivot them you'll have trouble.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • sda2mike
    sda2mike Posts: 3,131
    edited April 2012
    milk crates
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited April 2012
    Macrame hangers
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,499
    edited April 2012
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Forget it if you can't do it right. 1C's are much to heavy for a cheap "screw in" spike. The first time you go to move them or pivot them you'll have trouble.

    H9

    +1 to that. Oak bottoms? I wouldn't put a screw of that size in without drilling a pilot hole either. You risk causing the wood to split, not to mention the difficulty turning the screwdriver and possibly stripping the head of the screw out without a pilot hole.
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited April 2012
    Most of the 1C's (non studio) not sure what the op has are real oak veneer over particle board. Although I do understand some early 1C's had real oak, not sure if they are all that common. I know the SRS's and SRS2's were mostly oak end caps, but the 2B's and 1C's were mostly oak over particle board. The OP should check for sure.

    My 1C's are oak veneer over particle board.

    If the OP has studio's that would be even worse.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • nhhiep
    nhhiep Posts: 877
    edited April 2012
    mine are just veneer over particle board (not real wood), so using a screw driver should be easy. I just don't trust myself using a hammer, probably do more damage to the drivers at the end.
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  • sda2mike
    sda2mike Posts: 3,131
    edited April 2012
    you would'nt use a hammer anyway...if you're gonna do it - do it right...use a drill...don't forget the hot glue, too...sounds like you'd be better off finding a handy buddy to help you...if i was in your area, burgers and beer would get your install
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited April 2012
    nhhiep wrote: »
    mine are just veneer over particle board (not real wood), so using a screw driver should be easy. I just don't trust myself using a hammer, probably do more damage to the drivers at the end.

    What kind of spike allows you to just screw them in?

    I beg of you to do it right even if you just get this basic kit from Parts Express.

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-717

    H9

    P.s. Not to mention banging on the cabinet with a hammer might be a good way to shift one of the magnets in a driver.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,562
    edited April 2012
    I don't have a drill or feel like using a hammer to install spikes/feet to my SDA 1C. does anyone know where I can get the type of spike that I can install by using a screw driver?

    You can not install a T-nut or treaded insert like in the Parts Express link without drilling a hole first.
    I like the feet from the Rti A series, how do they install?

    They are screwed on....into a treaded insert, which had a hole drilled first.

    Bottom line, you have to drill a hole.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited April 2012
    To addon, if you measure the depth the Tnut needs to go into the cabinet and use a drill stop to that depth you will not have to drill all the way through the bottom. At that point you can gently tap the tnut into the bottom.


    Start here for how I did mine. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?82792-To-Spike-or-Not-Spike-1.2-TL-s&p=1077485&viewfull=1#post1077485
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,562
    edited April 2012
    F1nut wrote: »
    You can not install a T-nut or treaded insert like in the Parts Express link without drilling a hole first.



    They are screwed on....into a treaded insert, which had a hole drilled first.

    Bottom line, you have to drill a hole.

    Damn, I can't spell today. Make that "cannot" and "threaded".
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,761
    edited April 2012
    Turn in your man card. Don't own a drill... seriously? Surely you have a friend or neighbor with one.....
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  • WastelandWand'r
    WastelandWand'r Posts: 466
    edited April 2012
    Screw In?
    Why when you can take the 'liquid coupled' passive radiator out and just nail thru them into the floor.
    Secure, not unsightly like some of the other recommendations, and if secure is what you are looking for you just did it.
    I would use a large galvanized nail to add some color and pizzazz to it.
    Or drill a hole, tap a t-nut into it, and screw in some spikes.
    Happy trails,
    Nathan
    Home Rig

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  • chandler9a
    chandler9a Posts: 878
    edited April 2012
    To the OP, I did this to my 1C's a couple weeks ago and you definitely want to take the advice above. Drilling a pilot hole is very easy, just measure how far you need to go in, put the T-nuts in and install the spikes.

    thsmith's thread above is what I went by, great way to do it.
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