What size bolt is this?

audiobliss

I'm attempting to remove this bolt in the center console but cannot find anything that fits. A 9mm is too large and won't grip the bolt at all, and an 8mm won't even begin to slide down onto the bolt. And guess what? A 5/16 is too large and won't grip the bolt at all, and a 9/32 won't even begin to slide down onto the bolt. So, what gives? I know there is some variability in sizes with cheaper sockets and cheap bolts, and both come into play here, but both sets of sockets are so far removed from fitting I don't feel like that's the issue. I'm guessing it's something funky to try and keep people from removing it. Am I being dense? Is it obvious how to remove this bolt? Do I need some sort of specialty socket?

It's the two bolts holding down the black plastic 'gate'. One on the passenger side, and the other at the top, toward the dash.



Why am I trying to remove this bolt? Well, good question! Here's a little background info. As you've no doubt noticed, my MZ3's an automatic, with the nifty little 'manumatic' section. No, it's not really nifty, but it does a decent job of soothing ego's when a manual just isn't in the works. Anyways, if I'm in the driver's seat, the shifter is pulled over to the left, ready to convey my upshift and downshift commands to the transmission. For the last two weeks or so my desires for downshifts have been relayed to the transmission very spottily at best. I have to push the shifter forward sometimes ~8 times before it'll register and actually give me a downshift. I've tried to determine if holding the shifter forward, pushing it at an angle, or pushing it with more force will increase the odds of successful communication, but without conclusive results. I was hoping that if I could get to the shifter I would be able to clean the contacts, or maybe straighten out a bent contact, or in some other way remedy this issue. However, as described above, I have been unable to disassemble this area adequately to grant sufficient access.

Any input on the bolt size OR the transmission issue would be greatly appreciated!

transmaster

try a 10mm

mhardy6647

on second thought...

audiobliss

Oh dang, that's a great point. I copied and pasted from a Mazda forum I posted it to and forgot to elaborate on that. It's a 2005 Mazda3 actually.

And I'm rather inclined to think you may be right, unfortunately. That's a pretty decent idea with the vise grips, too, but I'm thinking I'm not that committed to this endeavor.

Thanks for the response!

mhardy6647 wrote: »

I don't know what an MZ3 is (sounds like some kind of BMW?) but perhaps the bolt is a security fastener of some sort; i.e., the car's way of saying...



Were I tempted to remove it - I'd try to grab two parallel sides with a good quality pair of long-nose pliers and hope it's not torqued too tight... but I don't mess with modern automobiles- too dang complicated.

mhardy6647

:-P sorry, I thought about it and felt my response was probably too snarky.
I do wonder if it might be a nonstandard nut to keep out the riff-raff, though...

Syndil

Are you sure the 9mm is actually going down around the head of the bolt? Might be that the wall of the socket is thick enough to be blocked by the plastic lip surrounding the bolt.

Polkersince85

I would say a 10mm also. 12 point if you have one. Your 9mm is just spinning on the top of the hex.

billbillw

You have a Mazda, invest in metric size sockets and wrenches. Virtually nothing (except maybe sparkplugs and lug nuts) on that car is English size.

Syndil

I also have a Mazda (two, actually). Not even the lug nuts are imperial. They are 21 mm. Don't remember what the spark plugs were, but I think those are mostly imperial. BMW uses metric spark plugs in a few of their cars just to be difficult, and I'm sure there are probably other rare examples, but I'm pretty sure most everyone else uses either 5/8" or 13/16". Motorcycles are another story.

Serendipity

Try a different 9mm, I would be inclined to think that it is being blocked by the plastic around the bolt.

Nice Mazda, hope you get the shifting issue figured out!

audiobliss

Well, upon revisiting this issue this evening I have a confession to make: I'm a moron. Faced with a situation that made NO sense (no sockets fitting the bolt), I grabbed my tools and set out to inspect the situation again.

First off I was mistaken with the metric sizes. An 8mm seemed to be too big and a 7mm too small (not 9mm and 8mm as I originally reported). However, messing around with it today, I discovered what was really going on. The 7mm and 9/32 sockets were indeed too small, but I realized that both the 8mm and 5/16 work just fine. Previously after nestling the larger sockets on over the bolt and spinning, I interpreted the complete lack of resistance as the socket being too large to grip the bolt. But with a sharper eye I noticed the bolt was indeed spinning, even though it presented no resistance and never backed out or went in further. I tried the other bolt (closer to the dash), and though it presented decent resistance (to finger effort), it still failed to spin in or out.

So, I guess these are essentially permanent fasteners with no intended method of removal, at least by an owner. It's all moot anyways, though, because I actually noticed where the switches are that are activated by the shifter and send the signals for upshifts and downshifts, which was the whole point of this exercise the start with, and they're perfectly accessible with the body of the center console removed.


Thanks for the responses, but I'm afraid this one boiled down to my ineptitude!

mhardy6647

congratulations! :-)

reminds me of a long-ago experience (in grad school) with an Epson dot-matrix printer. We had one in which the print head had burned out. My advisor had purchased a replacement head, and the task fell to me to replace it - I had almost completely dissected the poor printer -- bits, pieces, and fasteners strewn across my lab bench - when I realized that there was a little clip that flipped open to release the head.

... trying to make you feel better, here... :-)

audiobliss

Haha, then you can go ahead and consider yourself successful, because that was pretty funny. :cheesygrin:

mhardy6647

Excellent. My work is done here. :-)

Good luck with your auto!

gdb

It's probably a stupid little speed nut that is causing the difficulty, and preventing the screw from backing out. Needle nose vise grips with pulling plus turning will mosy likely do the deed. OR..... a bigger BFH !!

billbillw

FYI: In the future, an electronic service manual for that car is available online if you search in the various Mazda3 forums. I found it back when I had my Mazdaspeed3. Is pretty detailed (step by step) on how to disassemble the various parts of the car, including the interior. I'll bet those bolts you were trying to remove were designed to be removed at a different step, like when the whole assembly is removed.


OK, I just did the Google search for you.
Here is is:
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=80bc81d3eff2b3dc2058d4fa235074d0&topic=77517.0

audiobliss

Thanks so much for that link, billbillw! That could prove to be invaluable!

exalted512

The interior bolts on most cars, domestic and import, are 7, 8, and 10mm bolts. I've never seen one use a 9, and i've taken apart a lot of interiors...

Glad to know that you're just a noob.
-Cody