Box size =/

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Systems
Systems Posts: 14,873
edited October 2003 in Car Subwoofer Talk
I went to the local stereo shop and all they had was 0.35 cu ft 0.45 cu ft (aproximate sizes) and 1 cu ft boxes... so I was forced to go with the 1 cu ft box for now. (Desparation shows when your new sub will be here soon and there aren't any open stereo shops around that have reasonable/negotiable prices)

My sub requires/reccomends .65 cu ft w/ 1" polyfill all around... What would be the easiest way to alter (butcher) this box to get down close to this range that wouldn't be harmful for my sub.

The sub is an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1d - 350watts rms and I'm powering it to 320watts rms. Thanks.
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Post edited by Unknown User on

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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited October 2003
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    ... buy a proper box.

    or you should have just made the right box in the first place yourself -- woud have cost you maybe 15 bucks ... because the only way to get your box the proper size is to saw the back of it off and put a new back on -- for all that work, again, you might as well have built your own box.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited October 2003
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    Well I know that I'm not the smartest cookie. Would there be any drawbacks to having the sub cutout uncentered such as funky sounds, damage to sub, etc? I'm thinking about just sawing off part of the box and sticking part back on.
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  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,712
    edited October 2003
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    You don't have to cut the box apart. Cut some lengths of 2x4 that will fit inside the sub hole and screw them to the inside of the box on the back and sides of the box. Make sure you get the total volume for them and put in as many as you need, without interfering with the speaker, to fill .35 cubic feet. You might want to cover the side you are sticking to the inside of the box with adhesive or caulking to make sure screw holes don't leak or rattle.

    Getting that total is pretty easy. Just multiply length by height by width for each piece. Then add them all together and you get total displacement (aka: volume). Then take wither some 3M spray adhesive or a staple gun and start covering the insides of the tox with the polyfil. It's a dirty way of doing it but it should give you an adequate result. Not nearly as good as having the proper sized box but still, good enough to keep the speaker from destroying itself and providing decent sound. Oh, you don't have to be exact, close-enough dimensions will do. By close enough I mean .66 or .64. Doesn't have to be dead-on.

    Oh yeah, one more hint, that polyfil they charge 8-20 bucks for a 2 pound bag in stereo stores for? Guess what, You can get a 5 pound bag at most fabric stores or even WAL*MART for like 6-12 bucks. Infact, I got it from Crutchfield one time and they sent me a 2 pound bag of the exact same stuff my grandmother gets at the fabric store she goes to.

    Also, one thing I forgot, when using chemicals like 3M spray adhesive or caulking or wood glue, let the box air out for a few days. Some of the chemicals in silicon or petroleum distillates will destroy rubber surrounds and eat up teh glue that holes spiders and dust caps and speaker leads and hell, the whole speaker, together.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited October 2003
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    I used a crapload of 2x4's to fill in the box.. I'm glad thats over with. If it doesn't sound good I'm definately just going to build myself a new one, its not worth **** around anymore. Thanks for the advice.
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