Opinion about amps to feed power to (3) MM2104

geralopez

Any idea to feed (3) MM2104 in a connived subwoofer enclosure w/ (2) ported box in independent chamber and (1) band-pass box in a independent chamber too?
One amp for 2 subs in ported box (in parallel @ 2 ohms)
One amp for 21 sub in band-pass box (alone @ 4 ohms)

Crazy idea but I'm trying...

Recommendation and opinions are very welcomed (like VISA & MasterCard, American Express, checks or cash)

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Any comment about these Amps?

Bazooka 500-Watt Mono Amplifier
Model: BAZ ELA3001
Watts RMS per Channel (2 Ohms): 500 W
$159.99

Kenwood - 1000W Bridgeable Mono Amp W/ Low-Pass Filter
Model: KAC-8101D
Watts RMS per Channel (2 Ohms): 400 W
$255.99


Another brand recommendation?:
Please do not hesitate to recommend me a mid range price amps
But please give me your best....
good quality for Great quality SUBS...

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THANK YOU GUYS

TrappedUnder Ice

Opinion: dont run the 3 subs..run the 2 or the 1... those subs supposed to take 300w rms..

I could rattle off a lot of better subs...but I've overstayed my welcome here with some folks lately...:p

PoweredByDodge

here's an idea -- build a new friggin box.

sealed @ 0.66 per chamber -- 3 chambers for 3 subs. put about 300 - 400 watts to each sub (well make that much available... i've yet to dick around with the sub so i can't speak on power handling, but if spec is 300, it'll prolly take maybe 50 watts more or so). get like a 1 ohm stable 1200 watt mono amp. you'll run at 1.33 ohms in parallel and get like 900-1000 watts or something to the subs.

get my drift?

that could be a very nice system - take your time, price it out - do it right.

dont buy junk boxes or junk amps and expect it to be "killer" cuz the only person you'll be impressing is the guy at the local shop who's impressed by the amount of money one person will spend on choad.

MTXMAN

If you want a lot of power w/o breaking the bank look for the MTX 81000D. 1500w and stable at 1.33ohms... not the cleanest thing out there (that's an understatement) but it'll give you PLENTY of juice

geralopez

Well, let me explain my subs project:

I have built my own sub's enclosure for my 300M. I just take all the measures inside the trunk and I fitted the box exactly between the back of the rear seats and the trunk.
I'm trying to go out of the common designs or "standard boxes". Maybe it is a wrong idea for some people, but I'm trying to find the best sound in my car. I haven't any special style of music to play, but I would like to find the best performance for any style. Looking for quality, I started to select Polkaudio speakers for my project, due my past experience in quality sound with a home theater system audio (RM6600 w/ PSW350 Sub), and a pair of EX10 for my Camaro Z28.
I like and I love this brand and I can said: "I'm married with Polkaudio".
So, talking about nuts and electric guitars...
I decide to build a customized new box for this car. First question: Why 3 chambers? and second: Why with a ported and band-pass? As I explained before, I want to cover all the taste of music styles. Hard? I'm not sure, maybe it is a stupid idea but an idea that I want to develop or at least to investigate. I will add a picture of my box next monday, you can check it and give me your opinion. For the first question, the answer is I have enough space for three 10" subs, side to side, there are: 36" w X 14" h X 10" d-top 15" d-bott. This volume give me the possibility to build 3 chambers with 0.95 cu.ft. each. I'm not sure at this moment how works the subs that I have, I have installed (just to check) two EX-10 in the ported and one pioneer in the band-pass side and I'm going to test this week with some old amps (a Jensen 200W RMS at 4 ohms for the band-pass and one Profile California 400W RMS in mono at 2 ohms for the ported). Some times you want a lot of power in your car (mainly in front of some beautiful girls looking at you and your car) and some times you don't need all the power, you just want the basic inside your car for you, your soul and your spirit, let me said, good quality sound (I'm planning two components, one in front, and one in the back according a recommendation of a friend present in this room (PBD). I selected two separate amps for each sub and also to adjust the frequency in the x-over independently.

I will start testing with the original car's HU, but the plan is to find a good HU but it will be at the end of the project. I reed the recommendation in FAQ section and I will follow it.

Well I think it is enough for now (I believe you may be buried at this moment) I hope you can continue give your ideas and recommendations.
According your experience it is better sealed subs, Do you think I need to convert the ported boxes for sealed? What can I do to covert it if it is the case?
I'm attaching a little dwg with the enclosure. It is just and idea how it looks.

Thanks everybody and have a nice weekend.

Systems

I wouldn't suggest this amp. Bazooka amps have a slight tendancy to go into over heat protection mode prematurely which is quite annoying an will almost always do it when your trying to show off in front of those pretty girls.

PoweredByDodge

... i'd say 81000D as well -- or a JBL BP1200.1, at least its stable at 1 ohm and will give you 400w / sub... and its 250bucks.

... still dont like the box setup at all though, but what you want is what you want.

C-Man

I agree with Dodge... I don't like the box design either and think you'd be about a hundred times happier with three sealed chambers.
Anywho, I also agree with the MTX or JBL amps. I think if you have two different amps running two loads in basically two different types of boxes on the same type of subs, you're gonna run into a lot of sound quality issues. Generally if you take an amp that's 300 watts at 4 ohms, you'll get much better sound quality than the same amp that puts out 600 @ 2 ohms due to the fact that most amps distortion, slew, and damping are measured at 4 ohms... unless you got a monoblock which may be measured at 2 ohms, but it will be very hard to find a mono that will sound as clean as a 2 channel 4 ohm amp. Just my opinion though.

Jstas

Originally posted by PoweredByDodge
... i'd say 81000D as well -- or a JBL BP1200.1, at least its stable at 1 ohm and will give you 400w / sub... and its 250bucks.

... still dont like the box setup at all though, but what you want is what you want.

Dude, that box will work. The bandpass is not very loud at lower levels but the sealer enclosures will still hit. The bandpass will make you feel the sound more than hear it at lower levels. Turn up the volume though and it's loudL It'll shake your fillings loose! With using 2 MM2104 they are pretty well matched. The single bandpass should compliment the range of the sealed enclosures well. The dual sealed will have enough oomph to play right along with that bandpass and not be over-powered by it. In addition, he won't have to strain equipment or risk amplifier clipping to get ground pounding bass either.

While the description and picture say little about the actual box, the idea is sound and if the design is done right, it should be killer! It's got the best of both worlds. It has the volume and power of the bandpass and the accuracy and range of the sealed enclosure. A bandpass will play louder than an equally powered sealed enclosure but he makes up for that by have two sealed enclosures. The effectivly doubles his sealed enclosure power level and surface area which will more than compensate for the efficiency of the bandpass enclsoure.

I think it is a good idea. I've done stuff like it before and the results were better than I had expected. If I had the room, I might have done it in one of my vehicles.

geralopez

Just to clarify: It is only the subs-box with my old subs, I'm using a grille to protect the cones. But inside there are (2) EX-10 and (1) Pioneer. In the back you can see the vented ports for he three chambers. They are 3" ID with 10" length, Band-pass is 4" length. As your recommendation, I'll close the ports to convert into a sealed enclosure. I hope this can give you an idea of my project.

PoweredByDodge

freaky, but if it floats your boat, and there's any validity to what Jstas is saying, then maybe you've just uncovered some mystery of car audio that the rest of us haven't thought "outside the box" enough to have grasped before.

anywho -- Hifonics and Crossfire also make 1 ohm stable mono amps.. the BX1500D Hifonics will do like 1300 or in that range x 1 at 1.33 ohms, which will give you like 400 watts plus per sub... plenty by any standard.

and its cheap (relative to the retail cost of other 1500w D's -- and sounddomain is retail w/ full warranty from MFG's, unlike ebay) - www.sounddomain.com/shop and click on amplifiers / mono / hifonics and u'll see it.

geralopez

What about these amp config.?


MTX 801D MONO AMP. 4 Ohm Load, 250 w x 1
For Band-pass subw. (1- MM2104 @ 4 ohms)

MTX 801D MONO AMP. 2 Ohm Load, 500 w x 1
For Sealed subw. (2- MM2104 @ 2 ohms)

MTX THUNDER 1004 4CH AMP. 4 ohms Load, 125 watts RMS x 4
For Components (2- MM6 @ 4 ohms).

As always, thanks for your help!!:D

Jstas

Oh whoa! They are all ported? The look like the ports blow right into the back of the seat? That's bad dude. They should be vented into open space. Common practice is that the distance between the port opening and the nearest obstruction should be twice the width of the port at the minimum. So if you have a 2 inch port, you'd want more than 4 inches before the air coming out of the port contacts a solid surface. If the port was 3 inches wide, you'd want 6 inches or more and so on.

Only way I have seen it work otherwise is with Polk Audio's Power Port technology on thier home speakers.

geralopez

It was the original idea, but I'll will cancel those ports to be converted in a pair of sealed boxes. I have checked the internal volume (cu.ft.) and the box gave me 0.81 cu.ft. but subtracting the driver give me aprox. 0.68 cu.ft. for each box. I believe it will work acceding the recommended manuf. volume (0.66). I have to check the port for the center box (band-pass enclosure). I will check the distance between the box and the back of the seat. Port is 3"diam, I will need 6" min.

PoweredByDodge

i dunno -- why two amps - why not one amp?

but anyway -- ya i guess you could go with that.... it'd give you plenty of power.

a single 81000D would be more potent though i think, although dirtier.

MTXMAN

dont use an mtx amp for your components, they're way too dirty to work for them

geralopez

then, what amp it is recommended for the components? Hifonics, or you have a better idea.

PoweredByDodge

blue thunder baby...

BT150x2 -- they're still on sale for 150 bucks each -- and do like 125-ish by 2 at 4 ohms ... two of those little beasties = phat shizzle.

www.mitekfactoryoutlet.com


i dunno there's lot of good amps out there that do sick power -- soundstream / fosgate (ya i know - i said fosgate) / orion's got an 80 x 4 ... just dig aorund man... i mean do your homework...

mtx is a reliable amp that'll never die on you, but dude... all the post Blue Thunder / Original Thunder series stuff is MUDDY AS HELL.

PoweredByDodge

hey and what about the polk C300.2's ???

two of those!

150 x 2 at 4 ohms chachi.

geralopez

As everybody in this car audio world, I'm want to made a nice installation in my car. Now I'm confused about amps for each application high, mids and subs. I would like to find a non expensive amps with acceptable performance but all same brand. I don't want to mix (like a delicious salad) different amps brands. I accept that I'm newer in this field and I need a lot of help from you. Provably mixing it is the only way to find the most amazing car sound, but I have seen a lot of car pictures with all equipment same brand and they said their sound is OK. I really appreciate your help, in fact I'm basing my selection in your recommendations. As everybody, I'm looking for something different that can be noted. I love: "Do it your self installation" that give you more value at the end, is easy to go with a car audio dealer and wait in the loby till your car is finished, I'm like many of you.
In the next months I'm going to tuning my car. I will modify several thing in my car, all the original sound will be changed, the suspension with a lowraid control, original rims for a 19" wheels, and some other things. All this things takes time and a lot of money (mucho dinero).

For sure i would like to install all Polk-Momo amps, all they are nice but they are not cheap. At this moment I can spend for the 3 amps around $600 bucks. I spent more tahn $600 in the speakers and I will need all stuff for installation, cap., wires, dist. fuse, etc. but I need to select the amps to continue with my project.

Please let me know if you have in your experienced life of car audio an specific brand that can handle both amps.
One more thing, I'm selecting those amps with high power output because I have a plan to not over demand the output of the amps. I want to run all amps below the RMS power allowed. The parameter in amp, %THD is rated at the maximum WRMS, and here is when comes a technical question: If I run the amps at 75% of its efficiency, that will give me less provability of distortion or a overload signal in all speakers? 300M has 255HP but not all time these horses are running at their limit. I want to control all levels of sound in this specific application. I'm going to set my car, not all the cars. I'm think this boat will float, different than others but will float. I don't want uncovered some mystery of car audio that the rest haven't thought "outside the box",. I'm just want to be another member of this special audio world.

Hasta la vista...

C-Man

Hey man, I'd go with Dodge on this one. If you want three amps for $600, two MTX Blue Thunder 150X2's for the highs and an 81000D for the three subs. Your subs would be slammin' and your fronts would be screamin' on a seriously kick **** budget. Pick up the Blue Thunder amps from Mitek and an 81000D from ebay... should get all of it including shipping for right around your $600 mark.

geralopez

Ok guys, you are the Masters :cool: . I will go for these amps.
One question, How old is this amp? Or in other words, When was out of production from MTX?. I saw that it is a remanufactured item, It is a minor or mayor issue to think about it?

Jstas

If it is coming from the MTX factory outlet, it most likely has an MTX warranty of some sort. I wouldn't worry about it though. MTX amps have always been workhorses even if they were dirty about it. It would take alot to break one and I doubt that your planned subwoofer load would even come close to seriously taxing an 81000D. The older Blue Thunder amps are still highly desireable amps to have too. I would not worry about it at all.

geralopez

What about Autotek Stealth or Street Series amps?

Stealth Series:
XS-550.2 100W X 2 @ 4 ohms for components or XS-900.4 110W x 4 @ 4 ohms for components
and
XS-1600X 900W x 1 @ 2 ohms for subs
http://www.autotek.net/stealth.htm


Street Series:
SX-2150 100W X 2 @ 4 ohms for components or SX-4160 100W x 4 @ 4 ohms for components
and
SX-1700 700W x 1 @ 2 ohms for subs
http://www.autotek.net/streetmachine.htm


God bless you for your help and opinions:o

GLopez

C-Man

Autotek makes decent stuff. I don't see the Stealth sub amp you listed on there, but if it is a 1 ohm stable mono amp like the Streetmachine amp you listed it would probably be your best bet.
If it is a 2 channel amp, it probably isn't gonna be stable down to the 1.33 ohms you need when powering the 3 subs. If you mistyped and it's actually the XS-1500X that you were looking at, that would be your best bet... you'd probably get 1200-1350 watts out of that thing which would be good for your three subs.

The Streetmachine amp you listed for the subs would be an OK amp, probably giving you around 1000 watts for the three. I didn't bother to look at the component amps because I'm sure any of them will work. But if you're gonna buy any of these Autotek... the Stealth XS-1500X for the subs and the Stealth XS-900.4 would be your best bet. Nice looking flush mount amps and plenty of power.