Question about RT1000i wiring
Hi all-
Got these speakers several years back and have always wired them in the traditional fashion. However, the product manual (http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/manuals/home/RT1000i_2000iManual.pdf) shows no less than three ways to hook these speakers up. My question is, if each speaker has two sets of binding posts, why are the bottom two in diagrams shown in the manual never used? What is their purpose, if not to hold a connection? Also, has anyone with speakers like these (i.e., with built in subs) ever used Options 2 or 3, and if so, what results did you get. Many thanks
Got these speakers several years back and have always wired them in the traditional fashion. However, the product manual (http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/manuals/home/RT1000i_2000iManual.pdf) shows no less than three ways to hook these speakers up. My question is, if each speaker has two sets of binding posts, why are the bottom two in diagrams shown in the manual never used? What is their purpose, if not to hold a connection? Also, has anyone with speakers like these (i.e., with built in subs) ever used Options 2 or 3, and if so, what results did you get. Many thanks
Post edited by Scrondar on
Comments
-
Really? No one has an idea about alternate wiring of these speakers?
-
I use option 2. If you have preamp outputs, this is the route I would go. You should only use option 3 if you have a full range subwoofer output since the speakers already have a crossover built in.
The second set of binding post are just send a signal to the subwoofer if you are using option 1. If you are using the rca input for the subwoofer, these are not needed. -
I have 2 sets of RT2000p's and just wire them up to the amp via the regular bananas, jumpers removed and replaced w/speaker wire. The sub-woofer picks up what it wants and sends the sound southward, all works real well...as long as the amps are working. I have 2 spare towers for parts and one of the amps are gone and a pair of new amps will exceed the value of the units. I use them as rears on a large HT rig and they are great and it gives me 4 powered subwoofers + my sda-srs, kind of noisy.Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.
Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's. -
I use option 2. If you have preamp outputs, this is the route I would go. You should only use option 3 if you have a full range subwoofer output since the speakers already have a crossover built in.
The second set of binding post are just send a signal to the subwoofer if you are using option 1. If you are using the rca input for the subwoofer, these are not needed.
Good to know, thanks. I called Polk TS, and the fellow I spoke with recommended Option 3, but I will take your advice first. I need to find out now what exactly the sub preout on my receiver puts out. And thanks for the explanation about the second set of posts; always wondered. Fun!
Also, one other question-when going the Option 2 route, do you need to turn the power switch off, or leave it on Auto? Thanks. -
michael1947 wrote: »I have 2 sets of RT2000p's and just wire them up to the amp via the regular bananas, jumpers removed and replaced w/speaker wire. The sub-woofer picks up what it wants and sends the sound southward, all works real well...as long as the amps are working. I have 2 spare towers for parts and one of the amps are gone and a pair of new amps will exceed the value of the units. I use them as rears on a large HT rig and they are great and it gives me 4 powered subwoofers + my sda-srs, kind of noisy.
So, if I understand, you use the top posts for your amp hookup, and do not use the sub input, but instead replaced the jumper with speaker wire? Why so? Does this enhance the lower frequencies that go to the sub? -
Good to know, thanks. I called Polk TS, and the fellow I spoke with recommended Option 3, but I will take your advice first. I need to find out now what exactly the sub preout on my receiver puts out. And thanks for the explanation about the second set of posts; always wondered. Fun!
Also, one other question-when going the Option 2 route, do you need to turn the power switch off, or leave it on Auto? Thanks.
Leave it on auto.
The speaker wire between the upper and lower binding post would be a better conductor than the jumpers. In theory, a non-amplified signal would be better. Thus my suggestion for the using the preamp outs. With the lower frequencies sent the subwoofer, any differences between the methods may not be very noticeable. -
Leave it on auto.
The speaker wire between the upper and lower binding post would be a better conductor than the jumpers. In theory, a non-amplified signal would be better. Thus my suggestion for the using the preamp outs. With the lower frequencies sent the subwoofer, any differences between the methods may not be very noticeable.
Auto it is. When I ran the auto calibration in the receiver's setup, it set the crossover to 80 Hz. Would the Option 2 hookup affect this setting? I expect I'll re-run the calibration once I have the new hookup set, but I thought I'd ask. The overall response for this speaker is 25Hz-26KHz.
