RTA15TL side refinish or replacement

Denzel
Denzel Posts: 78
edited March 2012 in Vintage Speakers
I was curious if anyoine has successfully replaced the solid wood sides on a RTA15TL? The pair I have had a few "love marks" on the corners, and it drives me crazy them not being square. I did not know if these were in fact glued to the inner cabinet sides or fastened in such a way they could be removed or replaced. I called Polk and queried to see if they had a exploded parts drawing to show the construction, but they apparently do not at this time. Maybe wishful thinking but I thought if anywhere in the world someone here could shed some light on that question. I am open to sugggestion for alternatives. As always, thanks ahead for the information.
SDA SRS 3.1TL, Adcom GFP710 (preamp), GFA5400 amplifier, Pro-Ject TT
SDA SRS (circa 1988), Integra DHC 60.3 (HT preamp) Adcom GFA555 II, CS400i (center), Monitor 4.6 II (rears) Adcom GFA2535 & Oppo BDP-103, TCL 55R617 55" 4K Display, RTA 15TL (crossovers by VR3), Adcom GFP710 pre & GFA545 II amplifier, NAD C545BEE. AppleTV 4K
Other Polks not in service currently; SDA2a, SDA CRS+, SDA SRS 2.3, Monitor 4.6 II, Monitor 5jr+
Post edited by Denzel on

Comments

  • DVADER
    DVADER Posts: 14
    edited March 2012
    I dont know the answer to your question, but could you sand down every corner, and paint the corners black? Round them out a bit.
    Monitor 5B - original owner
    RTA 15T - new to me
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited March 2012
    Pics would be a tremendous help in understanding what we're talking about.:wink:
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,564
    edited March 2012
    Denzel wrote: »
    I was curious if anyoine has successfully replaced the solid wood sides on a RTA15TL? The pair I have had a few "love marks" on the corners, and it drives me crazy them not being square. I did not know if these were in fact glued to the inner cabinet sides or fastened in such a way they could be removed or replaced. I called Polk and queried to see if they had a exploded parts drawing to show the construction, but they apparently do not at this time. Maybe wishful thinking but I thought if anywhere in the world someone here could shed some light on that question. I am open to sugggestion for alternatives. As always, thanks ahead for the information.

    The panels are glued in place and they are veneered, not solid wood. To repair the corners use wood epoxy, sand flush, then use furniture powders in a medium to match the color. Tape off, top coat with toner followed by a clear coat.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • transmaster
    transmaster Posts: 428
    edited March 2012
    The best advice I can give you is do a search on the cabinet restoration sites. This is something they deal with all of the time. From these sites you will be able to link into outfits that have the supplies you need to do the job, real wood, or vinyl veneers etc. The forums dedicated to such restoration have people who are experts in this sort of thing. One place to look are the companies that supply the stuff to reface kitchen cabinets.
    Radio Station W7ITC
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,447
    edited March 2012
    F1nut wrote: »
    The panels are glued in place and they are veneered, not solid wood. To repair the corners use wood epoxy, sand flush, then use furniture powders in a medium to match the color. Tape off, top coat with toner followed by a clear coat.

    This guy is in the know.^^^^^ He's one of the maestro's of all things wood here. With the amount of glue Polk used you'd almost never get them apart in one piece. But you could strip off the old veneer and build it up like F1nut suggests and re-veneer the cabinets if you want to go that far.
  • Denzel
    Denzel Posts: 78
    edited March 2012
    Below are some pics of the corners I am dealing with... I appreciate all of your suggestions, and yes F1nut has the experience with these.. evident by his post years back when he did a wonderful job on his 15TL's
    These sound great... just need some attention in the appearance department. THanks all again. Ill post pics when I am done finishing them.

    IMG-20120320-00026.jpg
    IMG-20120320-00027.jpg
    IMG-20120320-00028.jpg
    IMG-20120320-00029.jpg
    SDA SRS 3.1TL, Adcom GFP710 (preamp), GFA5400 amplifier, Pro-Ject TT
    SDA SRS (circa 1988), Integra DHC 60.3 (HT preamp) Adcom GFA555 II, CS400i (center), Monitor 4.6 II (rears) Adcom GFA2535 & Oppo BDP-103, TCL 55R617 55" 4K Display, RTA 15TL (crossovers by VR3), Adcom GFP710 pre & GFA545 II amplifier, NAD C545BEE. AppleTV 4K
    Other Polks not in service currently; SDA2a, SDA CRS+, SDA SRS 2.3, Monitor 4.6 II, Monitor 5jr+
  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    edited March 2012
    I was typing while the images were being posted making my post redundant.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,447
    edited March 2012
  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    edited March 2012
    I think I can be helpful but I would like to hear from one of the speaker gurus first.

    Here are a couple of questions. How thick is the veneer? What is the veneer? What is the underlying material?

    I am going to throw this out fully expecting to get bapped on my Bippie but what the hell.

    Assuming White Oak as the veneer I have scrap from the boat shop that would cover the front and top shown in the image. The corner damage that extends to the side is the possible issue as I see it. If it were me I would try to cut the substrate away to save the dented veneer if at all possible. If the veneer is decent you could then glue it right back to the reformed corner for a nice finish with the least effort.

    If the veneer is crushed beyond salvage then this is not an option.

    If the side is damaged I can still send you random pieces until you found one that would be a decent match. Look at the pieces I could send and figure out the best grain match. Cut the section from the cabinet and glue on the new piece.

    There would still be sanding and finishing involved.

    I have no idea if this is the correct way to do this type of repair.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,447
    edited March 2012
    I think I can be helpful but I would like to hear from one of the speaker gurus first.

    Here are a couple of questions. How thick is the veneer? What is the veneer? What is the underlying material?

    I am going to throw this out fully expecting to get bapped on my Bippie but what the hell.

    Assuming White Oak as the veneer I have scrap from the boat shop that would cover the front and top shown in the image. The corner damage that extends to the side is the possible issue as I see it. If it were me I would try to cut the substrate away to save the dented veneer if at all possible. If the veneer is decent you could then glue it right back to the reformed corner for a nice finish with the least effort.

    If the veneer is crushed beyond salvage then this is not an option.

    If the side is damaged I can still send you random pieces until you found one that would be a decent match. Look at the pieces I could send and figure out the best grain match. Cut the section from the cabinet and glue on the new piece.

    There would still be sanding and finishing involved.

    I have no idea if this is the correct way to do this type of repair.

    "What is the underlying material?" I believe it is MDF.. I know on the smaller monitors it was particle board so it may very be that PB.

    " How thick is the veneer?" most was very thin very little sanding and you'd go through.
  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    edited March 2012
    "What is the underlying material?" I believe it is MDF.. I know on the smaller monitors it was particle board so it may very be that PB.

    " How thick is the veneer?" most was very thin very little sanding and you'd go through.



    This is why I am waiting to hear from one of the guys that has done this.

    If it is MDF then you can drill some tiny holes and glue and clamp to get most of your corner. Pull the pushed area back to straight then go from there.

    As F1nut said use epoxy putty and with the correct fillers you will have something you can color and finish.

    This is doable and it will look fine.
  • Denzel
    Denzel Posts: 78
    edited March 2012
    I believe the veneer is around 1/64th of an inch or so... I have spoke to a local cabinet refinisher that can take the old veneer off, fill and epoxy the corners to thier original edge shape and then apply new veneer and finish out to a light walnut. He quoted me a very reasonable price and I have seen his work on cabinets made of hardwood and also veneers. I know when to admit im not capable of a job to my perfection levels and this is it. Changing out xover componenets or drivers and binding posts is one thing.. wood work is another... I will post pics when they are finished up.

    Thanks for everybodys input.
    SDA SRS 3.1TL, Adcom GFP710 (preamp), GFA5400 amplifier, Pro-Ject TT
    SDA SRS (circa 1988), Integra DHC 60.3 (HT preamp) Adcom GFA555 II, CS400i (center), Monitor 4.6 II (rears) Adcom GFA2535 & Oppo BDP-103, TCL 55R617 55" 4K Display, RTA 15TL (crossovers by VR3), Adcom GFP710 pre & GFA545 II amplifier, NAD C545BEE. AppleTV 4K
    Other Polks not in service currently; SDA2a, SDA CRS+, SDA SRS 2.3, Monitor 4.6 II, Monitor 5jr+
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,640
    edited March 2012
    i am going to do the same with my rta's. i have a few minor chips in bottom. it bothers me also. even when there hiden n cant see bottoms. so i understand. please tell us what happens. thank you for info,all
    ..