Using the correct terminals..
Scroll down to bolded line to skip the BS.
After wiring my car in preparation for a pair of Polk Audio DB651 and a pair of JL Audio 6w3v3-4, I ran into a little problem with the door speakers (DB651).
I used 12 gauge speaker wire to run to the doors -blah blah blah over kill, I get it, but it's what I had on hand and it doesn't hurt my system in any way. Only problem I'm having is connecting a 12 gauge wire to the male disconnect terminals on the DB651. I think the males on the speaker are meant to connect to one 0.187" (+) and one 0.110" (-) female disconnect -just a guesstimate.
I want to avoid soldering. And they do not make any 10-12 gauge female disconnect terminals in 0.187" and 0.110" for audio (gold plated). Dorman used to (part no. 84552/84553) but discontinued the item (why?). However Dorman does make them in 14-16 gauge (part no. 84546/84547).
Would it really be so bad to trim the wire down to a 14 gauge from it's 12 gauge size?
I definitely don't want to damage anything. The only negative thing I can think of is maybe a loss of signal.. what else should I expect if I do this?
After wiring my car in preparation for a pair of Polk Audio DB651 and a pair of JL Audio 6w3v3-4, I ran into a little problem with the door speakers (DB651).
I used 12 gauge speaker wire to run to the doors -blah blah blah over kill, I get it, but it's what I had on hand and it doesn't hurt my system in any way. Only problem I'm having is connecting a 12 gauge wire to the male disconnect terminals on the DB651. I think the males on the speaker are meant to connect to one 0.187" (+) and one 0.110" (-) female disconnect -just a guesstimate.
I want to avoid soldering. And they do not make any 10-12 gauge female disconnect terminals in 0.187" and 0.110" for audio (gold plated). Dorman used to (part no. 84552/84553) but discontinued the item (why?). However Dorman does make them in 14-16 gauge (part no. 84546/84547).
Would it really be so bad to trim the wire down to a 14 gauge from it's 12 gauge size?
I definitely don't want to damage anything. The only negative thing I can think of is maybe a loss of signal.. what else should I expect if I do this?
Post edited by Riskay on
Comments
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Shouldn't be an issue. If you don't get much of a response, there is a seperate car audio section you may want to post in65" Sony X900 (XBR-65X900E)
Pioneer Elite SC-37
Polk Monitor 70's (2)
Polk Monitor 40's (4)
Polk Monitor CS2
Polk DSW Pro 660wi
Oppo BDP-93
Squeezebox Duet
Belkin PureAV PF60
Dish Network "The Hoppa" -
Thanks, I appreciate the response.
I'll try posting in the car audio section for more responses/ideas. -
Not an issue, I'm guessing you've already tried twisting the **** out of them? Possibly twisting them, then tinning w/solder; then filing the bundle to fit?
I used to use this method to get 12ga wire into vintage receivers spring loaded speaker connectors.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2 -
Nope, haven't tried with the 14 gauge terminals yet. I was planning on picking them up today to give it a shot.
Thanks for your help! I'll try that method and if I can't get a nice connection, I'll probably just cut it down to fit the 14 gauge. -
Ineed the interconnections for the pin and blade ? And i like to know the fuctions of it . Ialso like to know about some upgrade for it . But the point is to get it on correctely . Thanks
