Made My own speaker Cables

specd_out
specd_out Posts: 505
I used some how-tos and made my own cables. I got so tired of ugly looking wires running behind my tv stand and out to my speakers, and what made matters worse was that I bi-amp my mains. So i upgraded. I purchased some 12/4 stranded wire, techflex, heat shrink, cable pants, and some new nanner plugs. I dunno if the sound improved over the 12 awg i was using before but these look so much more professional, the look alone was worth the effort.

I used the Namakachi plugs from ebay and I was very impressed with the quality for the price. The clamp down tight on the wire and dont let go and they lock into the speakers very nicely too. They also look pretty slick IMO. I like them alot more then the monoprice ones i had. I took heat shrink and covered the set screws so that they wont back out. I figure it cant hurt.

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HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
Post edited by specd_out on

Comments

  • Oldfatdogs
    Oldfatdogs Posts: 1,874
    edited February 2012
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    edited February 2012
    Really nice!
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • Syndil
    Syndil Posts: 1,582
    edited February 2012
    Nice job, and good call on the Nakamichi plugs. I prefer them over the Monoprice too. If I may make one suggestion, it would be to put some heat-shrink around the base of the banana plugs to seal them to the rest of the cable, like this:

    th_DSCF0175.jpg

    The more air and moisture you can keep away from the copper, the longer it will last before it corrodes.

    RT-12, CS350-LS, PSW-300, Infinity Overture 1, Monoprice RC-65i
    Adcom GFA-545II, GFA-6000, Outlaw Audio 990, Netgear NeoTV
    Denon DCM-460, DMD-1000, Sony BDP-360, Bravia KDL-40Z4100/S
    Monster AVL-300, HTS-2500 MKII
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    edited February 2012
    Syndil wrote: »
    The more air and moisture you can keep away from the copper, the longer it will last before it corrodes.

    Yup or if your handy you could always tin the ends of the wire like this:

    2d0e3ea9.jpg
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • thetawave2
    thetawave2 Posts: 268
    edited February 2012
    Funny what a little techflex and a bit of heatshrink can do. Those are some handsome cables! Great job :)

    Just out of curiosity, where did you get your wire? Mine is Canare 4x14AWG and I'm very happy with it, especially for the price.
    My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited February 2012
    Nice workmanship!
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • rebuy
    rebuy Posts: 695
    edited February 2012
    What kind of wire is that? Is that speaker wire or house wire? Those other companies that sell wire that is 12/4 and the like, what are they selling as speaker wire? I've never seen "speaker wire" come as 12/4 yet I see people buying this wire and talking about how good it is.
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    edited February 2012
    rebuy wrote: »
    What kind of wire is that? Is that speaker wire or house wire? Those other companies that sell wire that is 12/4 and the like, what are they selling as speaker wire? I've never seen "speaker wire" come as 12/4 yet I see people buying this wire and talking about how good it is.

    14/4 is normally in wall rated wire. If your a Monoprice guy they sell it. The 14/4 it stands for 4 strand 14 guage. Normally it also is listed as CL2 (which lets you know its certified for use in walls)

    Personally I got mine (Audioquest FLX 14/4 CL2) from a local hi-fi store and 3 11 foot cables were under 50 bucks.

    Here is the Monoprice version. You can also use the Canare wire as well that many (myself included) would recommend over the monoprice stuff all day.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • rebuy
    rebuy Posts: 695
    edited February 2012
    Yes I understand some of what you are saying but to me, it looks like this is just generic house wire that people are using for speaker wire some of it rated for in wall some not. It looks like wire you can go to Home Depot and buy and make your own speaker wire. Am I wrong?
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    edited February 2012
    rebuy wrote: »
    Yes I understand some of what you are saying but to me, it looks like this is just generic house wire that people are using for speaker wire some of it rated for in wall some not. It looks like wire you can go to Home Depot and buy and make your own speaker wire. Am I wrong?

    Can you link to a product your talking about? What I linked to above is speaker wire, not wiring for electrical, thought it may look similar.

    There are more than enough threads here and on AVSFORUM about making your own speaker wire and what parts you need that you should find what your looking for if you do a search for it.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • rebuy
    rebuy Posts: 695
    edited February 2012
    Considering I do a lot of reading here and observe things carefully, it still appears to be wiring from major cable makers and maybe not made specifically for speakers until the middle man buys them, alters them and calls it speaker wire. Sure some of it looks similar and probably performs the same way. I usually buy "speaker wire" cause it is what it is, on the other hand, right size, right materials, might do the same thing in a different configuration, just not called the same thing.
  • specd_out
    specd_out Posts: 505
    edited February 2012
    I did alot of research reading reviews and tests done on cables. and came to the conclusion, that generic high strand count power cable from home depot will fit my needs. In my budget range I dont think there is much of a difference between 12awg speaker wire and 12 awg generic stranded cable. I have been using the same stuff for a few years just not in a sleeve. It sounds the same as my previous cable. The main reason I did this was for the simple clean look and I needed to replace my worn monoprice nanner clips. They had lost tension and would wobble around in the terminals.
    HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
    2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
    ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
  • specd_out
    specd_out Posts: 505
    edited February 2012
    BTW thanks for all the compliments. I really enjoyed doing it
    HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
    2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
    ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
  • specd_out
    specd_out Posts: 505
    edited February 2012
    Syndil wrote: »
    Nice job, and good call on the Nakamichi plugs. I prefer them over the Monoprice too. If I may make one suggestion, it would be to put some heat-shrink around the base of the banana plugs to seal them to the rest of the cable, like this:

    th_DSCF0175.jpg

    The more air and moisture you can keep away from the copper, the longer it will last before it corrodes.

    I like the way that looks I may end up doing that
    HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
    2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
    ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
  • Spiffyfast
    Spiffyfast Posts: 35
    edited November 2012
    Great work, I need to replace my wires shortly
    Mains: Polk Audio SDA-2Bs
    Center and Surrounds: Bic Acoustech
    AVR: Pioneer 1015tx
    Amp: Anthem Amp 1
    Turntable: Project Debut III
    Inputs: Xbox 360, Samsung BDP-1000, Apple TV
  • seabeerob213
    seabeerob213 Posts: 1,843
    edited November 2012
    nice job, beautiful construction, way better than mine
    2 Channel(work in progress):DAC: Schiit modi 2 uberAmp:Parasound 1200 MK IISub:RBH 1010-SEP Speakers: Monitor 5A peerlesscurrently running some krk rokit 3g since the HK pre outs died and i need to start breaking everything down to move in a couple monthsHeadphones:Source: tidalDAC: schiit modius epre: schiit sysAmp: AQ dragonfly black/ schiit magni2 Cans: Velodyne V-True, Grado SR225i, sennheiser x drop gaming headsetPC:DAC: schiit modius e(over spdif)pre: schiit sysspeakers: prenous eris 5 xtSub: Earthquake Sound MiniMe-P63most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)"WITH WILLING HEARTS AND SKILLFUL HANDS, THE DIFFICULT WE DO AT ONCE, THE IMPOSSIBLE TAKES A BIT LONGER, WITH COMPASSION FOR OTHERS. WE BUILD - WE FIGHT FOR PEACE WITH FREEDOM"Seabee Memorial, Arlington, VA
  • seabeerob213
    seabeerob213 Posts: 1,843
    edited November 2012
    ordered my heatshrink, techflex and pants, see if i can dress mine up anywhere close to being as nice as yours
    2 Channel(work in progress):DAC: Schiit modi 2 uberAmp:Parasound 1200 MK IISub:RBH 1010-SEP Speakers: Monitor 5A peerlesscurrently running some krk rokit 3g since the HK pre outs died and i need to start breaking everything down to move in a couple monthsHeadphones:Source: tidalDAC: schiit modius epre: schiit sysAmp: AQ dragonfly black/ schiit magni2 Cans: Velodyne V-True, Grado SR225i, sennheiser x drop gaming headsetPC:DAC: schiit modius e(over spdif)pre: schiit sysspeakers: prenous eris 5 xtSub: Earthquake Sound MiniMe-P63most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)"WITH WILLING HEARTS AND SKILLFUL HANDS, THE DIFFICULT WE DO AT ONCE, THE IMPOSSIBLE TAKES A BIT LONGER, WITH COMPASSION FOR OTHERS. WE BUILD - WE FIGHT FOR PEACE WITH FREEDOM"Seabee Memorial, Arlington, VA
  • jon s
    jon s Posts: 905
    edited November 2012
    From what I understand, the new theory is that it is best to use small gauge wire (~28awg) that are individually insulated (like magnet wire), bundle a lot of them together. This prevents cross signal jumping from wire to wire and also prevents phasing issues that large gauge has. I have ordered a spool of 30AWG magnet wire (3200ft/one lb spool) to try it out and see if that's true.

    Morrow Audio cables follow this philosophy and sounds great. The more expensive cables have more strands, the cheapest cable has only 12 strands and the most expensive cable has 144 strands. That's going to be a LOT of wire stripping and use 2880 ft of cable if I use 144 strands. Will let you know when I am finished with this...
  • Spiffyfast
    Spiffyfast Posts: 35
    edited November 2012
    jon s wrote: »
    From what I understand, the new theory is that it is best to use small gauge wire (~28awg) that are individually insulated (like magnet wire), bundle a lot of them together. This prevents cross signal jumping from wire to wire and also prevents phasing issues that large gauge has. I have ordered a spool of 30AWG magnet wire (3200ft/one lb spool) to try it out and see if that's true.

    Morrow Audio cables follow this philosophy and sounds great. The more expensive cables have more strands, the cheapest cable has only 12 strands and the most expensive cable has 144 strands. That's going to be a LOT of wire stripping and use 2880 ft of cable if I use 144 strands. Will let you know when I am finished with this...

    Whew, sounds like a serious build.
    Mains: Polk Audio SDA-2Bs
    Center and Surrounds: Bic Acoustech
    AVR: Pioneer 1015tx
    Amp: Anthem Amp 1
    Turntable: Project Debut III
    Inputs: Xbox 360, Samsung BDP-1000, Apple TV
  • Spiffyfast
    Spiffyfast Posts: 35
    edited November 2012
    You'll have to track the progress on that one
    Mains: Polk Audio SDA-2Bs
    Center and Surrounds: Bic Acoustech
    AVR: Pioneer 1015tx
    Amp: Anthem Amp 1
    Turntable: Project Debut III
    Inputs: Xbox 360, Samsung BDP-1000, Apple TV
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2012
    They look fantastic, great work.

    Mark
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • seabeerob213
    seabeerob213 Posts: 1,843
    edited November 2012
    jon s wrote: »
    From what I understand, the new theory is that it is best to use small gauge wire (~28awg) that are individually insulated (like magnet wire), bundle a lot of them together. This prevents cross signal jumping from wire to wire and also prevents phasing issues that large gauge has. I have ordered a spool of 30AWG magnet wire (3200ft/one lb spool) to try it out and see if that's true.

    Morrow Audio cables follow this philosophy and sounds great. The more expensive cables have more strands, the cheapest cable has only 12 strands and the most expensive cable has 144 strands. That's going to be a LOT of wire stripping and use 2880 ft of cable if I use 144 strands. Will let you know when I am finished with this...

    from what i've heard CAT 5 wire works the best
    2 Channel(work in progress):DAC: Schiit modi 2 uberAmp:Parasound 1200 MK IISub:RBH 1010-SEP Speakers: Monitor 5A peerlesscurrently running some krk rokit 3g since the HK pre outs died and i need to start breaking everything down to move in a couple monthsHeadphones:Source: tidalDAC: schiit modius epre: schiit sysAmp: AQ dragonfly black/ schiit magni2 Cans: Velodyne V-True, Grado SR225i, sennheiser x drop gaming headsetPC:DAC: schiit modius e(over spdif)pre: schiit sysspeakers: prenous eris 5 xtSub: Earthquake Sound MiniMe-P63most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)"WITH WILLING HEARTS AND SKILLFUL HANDS, THE DIFFICULT WE DO AT ONCE, THE IMPOSSIBLE TAKES A BIT LONGER, WITH COMPASSION FOR OTHERS. WE BUILD - WE FIGHT FOR PEACE WITH FREEDOM"Seabee Memorial, Arlington, VA
  • BigGilles
    BigGilles Posts: 6
    edited November 2012
    this is just wonderful

    nice job

    keep-up
  • specd_out
    specd_out Posts: 505
    edited November 2012
    Thanks guys. They are still holding up. The Nanners are still locking nicely even after numerous unplugs. Best part of them IMO is the look. They look so nice behind the speakers
    HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
    2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
    ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
  • Upstatemax
    Upstatemax Posts: 2,680
    edited November 2012
    Wires look great!

    I'm too lazy, so I let Frank @ Signal build mine.
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,437
    edited November 2012
    Those look awesome, way better than my attempt. I even tried getting fancy with homemade jumpers which didn't last too long, just went back to using 12awg wire for my jumpers. Heres a few shots of my measley effort.

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    P1020865.jpg
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • specd_out
    specd_out Posts: 505
    edited November 2012
    Those look Good IMO
    HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
    2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
    ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
  • jaf09
    jaf09 Posts: 48
    edited December 2012
    Great work, i might try it in the near future i just hope the end result is something close!:cheesygrin: