Repairing mid drivers and tweeters ?

zoraduntov
zoraduntov Posts: 25
edited January 2012 in Vintage Speakers
Is there anyone who can repair the blown tweets and midrange drivers ?
There from a Polk SDA CRS :confused:
Post edited by zoraduntov on

Comments

  • zoraduntov
    zoraduntov Posts: 25
    edited January 2012
    The reason I want to keep the original tweeter is because its silver and the replacement would be black
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited January 2012
    Haven't looked up the specific model # is for your speakers but you should be able too buy replacment original vintage tweets. May take a few mo. But most turn up eventully.
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited January 2012
    zoraduntov wrote: »
    Is there anyone who can repair the blown tweets and midrange drivers ?
    They're (fixed) from a Polk SDA CRS :confused:

    Welcome to Club Polk. Those are great speakers and well worth restoring/modding.

    I've used these folks for refoaming and magnet shifts before and they do nice work. I don't know if they do tweeters.

    Their pricing page is below and you can also find the contact information . . .

    http://www.midwestspeaker.com/speakerrepairprices2.html

    You can also get good used MW's (midwoofers) here in the classifieds, on eBay, or new from Polk CS. The specific MW-65xx number is stamped on the back of the driver.

    Keeping the SL-2000's, even thought you prefer the color, is bad logic as it's a nasty sounding tweeter unless you are about ninety and can't hear much above 12,000 Hz. The RDO194 is the recommended stock "drop-in" replacement (and cost approx $48 each from Polk Customer Service if you tell them you are a member of Club Polk).

    If you can, you should read about "TL'ing" those speakers with the addition of a 5.8uf capacitor in the high-pass section of the crossover, and upgrading to the even better sounding (in my humble opinion) RDO198-1.
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  • zoraduntov
    zoraduntov Posts: 25
    edited January 2012
    I just want them stock
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2012
    That's pretty much a mistaken course in the case of the tweeters. Black ones look better and sound, MUCH better. Good luck, whichever way you choose !
  • zoraduntov
    zoraduntov Posts: 25
    edited January 2012
    On the back of the tweeters it says SL 1000
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited January 2012
    On the back of the tweeters it says SL 1000

    Yeah, you definitely need the RD0194-1 replacement tweeters.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited January 2012
    When considering tweeter replacement remember the phrase "Smooth as silk". The sl1000 is a tri lam IRRC. The rd-0194-1 is a silk dome and is exactly that ...smooth as silk.

    I would suggest you try it and listen for yourself.
    Too much **** to list....
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited January 2012
    zoraduntov wrote: »
    I just want them stock

    That's OK if you just want to point them out to a visitor and use them as a talking point.

    If you want to actually listen to them, you will spend the same amount of money whether you restore them to mid '80's or 2012 performance levels.

    With RDO's, you can listen with the grilles on and pretend the tweeter domes are silver.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited January 2012
    i thought the rdo 194 was the replacement for the sl2000 tweeter. are the 1000 and 2000 interchangeable?
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited January 2012
    the RD-0194 is the Polk replacement for the Peerless, SL1000 and SL2000. You need to mod the cabs ever so slightly to replace the Peerless or SL1000.
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2012
    IIRC there is no RDO to properly replace the Peerless Tweeters, that is why I have squirreled away approx 10 of em for future needs.:wink: Anyone with a sharp Exacto knife should be able to modify the baffle in order to fit the slightly larger faceplates.
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited January 2012
    gdb wrote: »
    IIRC there is no RDO to properly replace the Peerless Tweeters, that is why I have squirreled away approx 10 of em for future needs.:wink: Anyone with a sharp Exacto knife should be able to modify the baffle in order to fit the slightly larger faceplates.

    The RD0 is not an exact match but if you can't find a peerless or want to Timbre match with other pairs the RD0 is the way to go.

    To the original poster, I have had Polks with the Silver SL1000 and let me tell you the RD-0194 is a huge improvement over the original.
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2012
    I thought that they were an electical mismatch, ie. ohms, etc.?? (RDO-Peerless)
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited January 2012
    I believe you have to add a resistor to the mix to get the load correct when using an RD0 instead of peerless.