Repairing mid drivers and tweeters ?
zoraduntov
Posts: 25
Is there anyone who can repair the blown tweets and midrange drivers ?
There from a Polk SDA CRS
There from a Polk SDA CRS
Post edited by zoraduntov on
Comments
-
The reason I want to keep the original tweeter is because its silver and the replacement would be black
-
Haven't looked up the specific model # is for your speakers but you should be able too buy replacment original vintage tweets. May take a few mo. But most turn up eventully.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
zoraduntov wrote: »Is there anyone who can repair the blown tweets and midrange drivers ?
They're (fixed) from a Polk SDA CRS
Welcome to Club Polk. Those are great speakers and well worth restoring/modding.
I've used these folks for refoaming and magnet shifts before and they do nice work. I don't know if they do tweeters.
Their pricing page is below and you can also find the contact information . . .
http://www.midwestspeaker.com/speakerrepairprices2.html
You can also get good used MW's (midwoofers) here in the classifieds, on eBay, or new from Polk CS. The specific MW-65xx number is stamped on the back of the driver.
Keeping the SL-2000's, even thought you prefer the color, is bad logic as it's a nasty sounding tweeter unless you are about ninety and can't hear much above 12,000 Hz. The RDO194 is the recommended stock "drop-in" replacement (and cost approx $48 each from Polk Customer Service if you tell them you are a member of Club Polk).
If you can, you should read about "TL'ing" those speakers with the addition of a 5.8uf capacitor in the high-pass section of the crossover, and upgrading to the even better sounding (in my humble opinion) RDO198-1.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
I just want them stock
-
That's pretty much a mistaken course in the case of the tweeters. Black ones look better and sound, MUCH better. Good luck, whichever way you choose !
-
On the back of the tweeters it says SL 1000
-
On the back of the tweeters it says SL 1000
Yeah, you definitely need the RD0194-1 replacement tweeters.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
When considering tweeter replacement remember the phrase "Smooth as silk". The sl1000 is a tri lam IRRC. The rd-0194-1 is a silk dome and is exactly that ...smooth as silk.
I would suggest you try it and listen for yourself.Too much **** to list.... -
zoraduntov wrote: »I just want them stock
That's OK if you just want to point them out to a visitor and use them as a talking point.
If you want to actually listen to them, you will spend the same amount of money whether you restore them to mid '80's or 2012 performance levels.
With RDO's, you can listen with the grilles on and pretend the tweeter domes are silver.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
i thought the rdo 194 was the replacement for the sl2000 tweeter. are the 1000 and 2000 interchangeable?
-
the RD-0194 is the Polk replacement for the Peerless, SL1000 and SL2000. You need to mod the cabs ever so slightly to replace the Peerless or SL1000.
-
IIRC there is no RDO to properly replace the Peerless Tweeters, that is why I have squirreled away approx 10 of em for future needs. Anyone with a sharp Exacto knife should be able to modify the baffle in order to fit the slightly larger faceplates.
-
IIRC there is no RDO to properly replace the Peerless Tweeters, that is why I have squirreled away approx 10 of em for future needs. Anyone with a sharp Exacto knife should be able to modify the baffle in order to fit the slightly larger faceplates.
The RD0 is not an exact match but if you can't find a peerless or want to Timbre match with other pairs the RD0 is the way to go.
To the original poster, I have had Polks with the Silver SL1000 and let me tell you the RD-0194 is a huge improvement over the original. -
I thought that they were an electical mismatch, ie. ohms, etc.?? (RDO-Peerless)
-
I believe you have to add a resistor to the mix to get the load correct when using an RD0 instead of peerless.