Sorry to ask but.... Replacement binding post for 1Cs
thsmith
Posts: 6,082
I used google and searched replacement binding post but not much came up. I know it has been covered many times but I am not finding it and I know I read it about someone asking the same question recently.
What are the better binding post to replace the OEM speaker and SDA interconnect. Also, do I need short or long post?
I guess while I am at it, Need to make up an excellent SDA interconnect so I could use some guidance on connectors and wire that is a huge upgrade over stock.
Thanks and again sorry to ask about something I should be able to find easily here.
What are the better binding post to replace the OEM speaker and SDA interconnect. Also, do I need short or long post?
I guess while I am at it, Need to make up an excellent SDA interconnect so I could use some guidance on connectors and wire that is a huge upgrade over stock.
Thanks and again sorry to ask about something I should be able to find easily here.
Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
Post edited by thsmith on
Comments
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The short ones will fit through the binding post cup cup with no problem at all. Depending on what you get, you may need to enlarge the holes a little, but it's easy to do. The hardest part of changing out the binding posts is getting the old hot glue off, but usually with a little digging at it, it will pop away from the surface.
If you want the best binding posts, go for the Vampire Wire BPHEX/CB.
http://www.douglasconnection.com/Vampire-Wire-BPHEX-CB-Gold-Plated-Copper-Binding-Posts-VWBPHEXCB.htm
It's a fun DIY project to replace the binding posts, and make a nice new interconnect cable. Have fun.Sunfire Theater Grand IV
Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
SRS 2.1TL
SDA 2BTL's
CSiA6
FXiA4
FXiA6
SDA 2A's
Monitor 10A's
http://www.douglasconnection.com -
Most people seem to go with either the Vampire (http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/vampire_bphexcb.htm) or Cardas (http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_ccgr.htm). I prefer the cardas myself. Shorts work just fine. Speaker wire is whatever you like with the same binding posts you choose for your speakers. If you're doing the AI-1 Dreadnought, you'll need a transformer too, and preferably an aluminum box to put it in.Turntable: Empire 208
Arm: Rega 300
Cart: Shelter 501 III
Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified -
Thanks guys.
I think I will order a set Vampire Wire BPHEX/CB for the speaker binding post and the Cardas for Interconnect binding post.
Still looking for recommendations on Interconnect between speakers and I am thinking of using spades for those.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
I would stick to the same post for both IMO
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I'm glad you asked the question! For now I just made a rca interconnect for my sda internconnect, but I want to do the binding post to make a real upgraded sda connection.
Do you recommend drilling a new hole, or using the hole that is already there for the sda connection?
Also, my soldering iron is only 40 watts, is that enough to solder those binding posts?Polk Audio SDA CRS+ crossover 4.1TL by Trey/VR3 (Rings and custom stand by Larry)-Polk Audio SDA SRS2 crossovers by Trey/VR3Parasound HCA1500aYamaha rxa-3070 with musicast-Celestion SL6S presence,- sl9 surround backNHTsuper1's surroundMagnepan SMGParasound 1500pre- Sofia "Baby" tube amp - Monitor Audio Silver RX2 Marantz 2230/B&Kst140Technics 1200mk2 Gamertag: IslandBerserker I am but a infinitesimally small point meeting the line of infinity in the SDA universe -
Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
I would stick with the same for both as well. Aesthetically it would look better. Sound wise I doubt there is much of a difference between the two.
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I would go with the Cardas why? because I like the build quality better, I would also use them for my SDA cable. What I would also do is find out if your 1C's can use the AI-1 SDA cable/Dreadnought with a nice set of speaker cables with bananas if so I would go that route as the improvement is grand, if not build your own SDA cable with bananas of the speaker wire of your choice. you will be amazed at the SDA improvment.
If you can find my SDA upgrade thread you will see how I did the binding post cups you can also see them in my CRS+ upgrade thread as well. I will see if I can find them and post a link..
If you need help doing the binding post cups I would be willing to do them for you just supply parts and shipping.
Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Went with Cardas for binding post, AQ T4 for sda and added Norez. Absolutely worth the cost and time.
New gaskets are sweet too.
Overall sound improvement but specifically mid bass punch. The highs are extended. Sound stage opened up 2-3'. Darker background.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
I'm glad you asked the question! For now I just made a rca interconnect for my sda internconnect, but I want to do the binding post to make a real upgraded sda connection.
Do you recommend drilling a new hole, or using the hole that is already there for the sda connection?
Also, my soldering iron is only 40 watts, is that enough to solder those binding posts?
I added a new hole but entirely covered the pin blade module with hot glue. That thing leaks a lot of air.
You will need a huge iron to solder to the Cardas. Your 40 watts probably won't do it. See is you can rent one. I have a friend that loaned me his old air force frame iron. Made easy work of soldering the binding post.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
I'm glad you asked the question! For now I just made a rca interconnect for my sda internconnect, but I want to do the binding post to make a real upgraded sda connection.
Do you recommend drilling a new hole, or using the hole that is already there for the sda connection?
Also, my soldering iron is only 40 watts, is that enough to solder those binding posts?
You can solder the Cardas with a 40 watt iron, I did it. Be sure and tin the iron and the wire you're connecting so transfers heat more efficiently.
Good choice on the Cardas, thsmith. I like that brand because it's heavy billet copper with gold plating, instead of brass like the vampire. Don't know why the Vampire is so pricey."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
I guess these are OK?
http://www.hndme.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2724
I think I need 6 pairs?
Slightly different product number than the CCGS at Sonicraft. I'd ask what the base material is to be sure. To upgrade speaker binding posts you need 4 pairs (1 pair each for highs and lows per cabinet) , and 1 pair (1 bp per speaker) for the IC connection = 5 pairs.
You can run the negative leg for the IC cable from the MW negative speaker bp to the AI-1."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
I went with the ccgr like these http://www.musicdirect.com/p-6804-cardas-ccgr-gold-rhodium-binding-post-short-ea.aspxSpeakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
I guess these are OK?
http://www.hndme.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2724
I think I need 6 pairs?
I have ordered from Handmade before. They are a good company. I would go for these, IMO. Unfortunately, they only have 4 sets in stock right now though. I'm sure they will get more soon.http://www.hndme.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2332&idcategory=139
You get a bigger discount for the more sets you order (between 2 and 8) plus if you order $150.00 worth of stuff you get a discount.
Greg
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
Guys you really have to look no further for your binding posts needs than Sonic Craft and they have the best prices too.
http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas.htmPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Guys you really have to look no further for your binding posts needs than Sonic Craft and they have the best prices too.
http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas.htm
+1....Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Be sure to ask first, if they have it in stock.
Beware of back orders!
Bad experience recently.
Not to say, the other 99 orders where not perfect.
Very good service overall.
Just ask first, simple as that.Testing
Testing
Testing -
Guys you really have to look no further for your binding posts needs than Sonic Craft and they have the best prices too.
http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas.htm
You are right Jesse. Sonic Craft has always been good to us. I have ordered from them more than any other store by many times over. I still recommend the Rhodium Cardas posts. They are very nice. Sonic Craft carries them as well.
Greg
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
Ordered mine from Sonicraft yesterday - should arrive on Thursday. That's service! Only $25.50 per assembly for the shorts. :cool:"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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What did you use for upgraded sda cable?Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
What did you use for upgraded sda cable?
Braided Cat 5 cable per Chris Ven Haus' recipe: http://www.venhaus1.com/diycatfivecables.html Mine is equivalent 12 gauge (16 24 awg wires).
True PITA to make, and requires the use of Belden 1585A because it's teflon insulated, but a stellar design. Also using it in biwire configuration.
Very inexpensive, very good, very labor intensive."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer