bi wiring is it justified
leftwinger57
Posts: 2,917
Hello again and I think I finally have a relavent question for you guys.My speakers who you so politely called them party speakers or general enrty level speakers into the 2-chl arena just have spring loaded clips so this does not apply to me.Fair enough if I had the $ the speakers would be better and these would be given to my nephews'dorm buddies. Now about this bi-wiring,I fully understand that there are 2 sets of terminals that are strapped in the back.If one has no interest in bi wiring all he does is h/u one set of nanas or 5way posts. If on the other hand one removed said strapps then 2 sets of spkr cables is needed and this in turn is supposed to give better seperation between the tweeters/mids and the woofers. At the other amp end both sets of terminals ++with a spade lug and then-- again w aspade lug. So far am I right and then depending on quality of speakers and amps does this make a huge difference.
Now bi-amping I totally do not understand ,but a do get mono blocks and how seperate chassis do make a
difference.With a larger output xformer in one body.
One other thing that I've noticed on very expensive ICs and Speaker wire is what appears to be an inline fuse of some type. Am I right or is this device something else altogether.
Now bi-amping I totally do not understand ,but a do get mono blocks and how seperate chassis do make a
difference.With a larger output xformer in one body.
One other thing that I've noticed on very expensive ICs and Speaker wire is what appears to be an inline fuse of some type. Am I right or is this device something else altogether.
2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
Post edited by leftwinger57 on
Comments
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For bi-wiring, you still just have the positive and negative hooked up to the receiver/amp (no change there). What you are doing is removing the metal jumper for something "a little higher quality". Basically all the connecting jumper is, is a piece of metal (gold plated brass?). You can remove the brass and put in some nice quality 3" jumpers instead and run them all in series (keeping the + and - seperate of course)
Bi-amping can be done multiple ways. You can strictly use 2 amps for the same speaker, but that will be a minimal enhancement because you are not changing the crossover fundamentals that are involved within the speaker. You are just seperating the power requirements.
Now if you were to insert an active crossover - then you can certainly seperate the frequencies and run just whats needed to each speaker. Think of how a difference in cables can make with the signal. The same principle would apply by simply removing unwanted/needed signal from the speaker wires themselves.
There is really alot more to it than that, but that's just my take on it. If you want to read the full scientific explanation for how it all works, then you can just look it up in Wikipedia or Google it to get some 30 page article about the laws of physics.65" Sony X900 (XBR-65X900E)
Pioneer Elite SC-37
Polk Monitor 70's (2)
Polk Monitor 40's (4)
Polk Monitor CS2
Polk DSW Pro 660wi
Oppo BDP-93
Squeezebox Duet
Belkin PureAV PF60
Dish Network "The Hoppa" -
Dan? Where art thou?Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
