Binding posts for the SDA 2B
muncybob
Posts: 3,043
OK, I've learned a lot on this forum but what I don't know is what I should be looking for in binding posts. I'm at the tail end of the TL upgrade and kinda forgot all about the binding posts, so while I still have the PR's off I need to make a decision. 2 that I have my eye on due to cost reason only is the Cardas CCBP short and the Vampire BPHEX for about 1/2 the cost. Is the Cardas quality better to justify the higher cost? Should I be looking at something else?
If you were to replace the posts for let's say under $70 for both speakers, what would you buy & why?
If you were to replace the posts for let's say under $70 for both speakers, what would you buy & why?
Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
Post edited by muncybob on
Comments
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This one, http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_ccgg.htm or a bit better, http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_ccgr.htm
Nice beefy posts.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The Cardas posts Jesse recommended are a excellent choice. I used the Vampire Wire BPHEX/CB posts on the 2B upgrade. The BPHEX (Without the CB) are quite a bit less expensive, made from Brass, but are copper plated, silver plated, and finally gold plated, which should give you great signal transfer.
http://www.douglasconnection.com/Vampire-Wire-BPHEX-Gold-Plated-Binding-Posts-VWBPHEX.htm
Here is another set I personally like because of the floating Jack plate.
http://www.douglasconnection.com/5-way-Gold-Plated-Binding-Posts-2-Pair-set-MBPB133.htm
Hope this helps.Sunfire Theater Grand IV
Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
SRS 2.1TL
SDA 2BTL's
CSiA6
FXiA4
FXiA6
SDA 2A's
Monitor 10A's
http://www.douglasconnection.com -
I went cheap and went with the Dayton's. I have the Cardas on my 2B's and the Daytons on my CRS+. I actually swapped binding post plates to see if I can hear a difference and I absolutely could NOT.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-1245&scqty=2
YMMV. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »I went cheap and went with the Dayton's. I have the Cardas on my 2B's and the Daytons on my CRS+. I actually swapped binding post plates to see if I can hear a difference and I absolutely could NOT.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-1245&scqty=2
YMMV.
I was hoping somebody did a sort of A-B test on binding posts. I too wonder if my ears will hear a difference.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
I'd be interested to hear about that too. In my case, it's hard to say whether upgrading the binding posts made a difference or not. When I did the Vampire Wire BPHEX/CB upgrade, it was done at the same time as many other improvements to the 2B's and SRS2's, so can't really say if there was an improvement or not, just from the new binding posts. The main thing I wanted to do was make those speakers the best they could possibly be, and decided on the copper body binders. If anyone has done just the binding post upgrade, I'd be very interested to hear your thoughts.I was hoping somebody did a sort of A-B test on binding posts. I too wonder if my ears will hear a difference.Sunfire Theater Grand IV
Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
SRS 2.1TL
SDA 2BTL's
CSiA6
FXiA4
FXiA6
SDA 2A's
Monitor 10A's
http://www.douglasconnection.com -
Both the Cardas CCGR and Vampire BP-Hex/CB are the best binding posts for the money. If you want to try both, I would recommend the Cardas for the highs and the Vampire binding posts for the mid-range if your speakers support bi-wiring. Since the SDA-2Bs do not support bi-wiring, I would recommend going with the Cardas CCGR. Make sure the internal wiring goes through the hole in the binding post for best results.
I do not believe you will find a better binding post other than these two that are recommended.
Good luck!!!Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
helipilotdoug wrote: »I'd be interested to hear about that too. In my case, it's hard to say whether upgrading the binding posts made a difference or not. When I did the Vampire Wire BPHEX/CB upgrade, it was done at the same time as many other improvements to the 2B's and SRS2's, so can't really say if there was an improvement or not, just from the new binding posts. The main thing I wanted to do was make those speakers the best they could possibly be, and decided on the copper body binders. If anyone has done just the binding post upgrade, I'd be very interested to hear your thoughts.
Yes, adding those binding posts did make an improvement to your system. They provide more clarity and detail to the sound. Excellent choice!!! However, I would recommend the Cardas CCGR to the highs for a better improvement, and the Vampires on the midrange on your SRS-2's.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
I was hoping somebody did a sort of A-B test on binding posts. I too wonder if my ears will hear a difference.
I did this project some time ago and recently made some changes.
When I started the project, I replaced the stock binding posts on my amp with the Vampire BP-Hex/CB. What a significant difference it made!!! The sound was more detailed and smoother. I became a fan for life with these binding posts.
When I went to replace the stock binding posts on my 1.2TLs with the same Vampires, I was underwhelmed. The Vampires did sound a bit smoother, but at the expense of the robbing some detail. So I went back and placed the stock binding posts on my 1.2TLs and left it this way for about 18 months. I spoke with Jeff at Sonic Craft explaining my experience with the binding post swap on my speakers. He highly recommended trying the Cardas CCGR Binding posts. Since I already have investment with leftover parts on my Vampires, I did not want to make such a financial committment on replacing all of my Vampires with Cardas. Being the economist I am, I decided to give the Cardas a try on my amps and use it on the highs on my speakers. I find that they did make a difference and they sound marvelous!!!
So I am now using the Vampires on mid-range and the Cardas on the highs on my speakers. YMMV.
Good luck.
If anyone has any questions, let me know.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »I went cheap and went with the Dayton's. I have the Cardas on my 2B's and the Daytons on my CRS+. I actually swapped binding post plates to see if I can hear a difference and I absolutely could NOT.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-1245&scqty=2
YMMV.
This would be moving side-ways. The net result would be no improvement.
If you want to hear a difference, with quality that these speakers are capable of, go with the Cardas or Vampire Binding Posts that are recommended. Trust me!!!Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
Well no sense in skimping at this point after the $$ I've recently invested in them, so the Cardas ones will be ordered tonight. Thanks for the input....waiting to fully reassemble these is starting to feel like waiting for Christmas when I was a kid!Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Ran into a problem. Prior to replacing the binding posts I noticed that I barely had enough wire to reach from the original posts terminals to the upgraded crossovers.
The Cardas posts I installed are the short ones and between that and perhaps clipping off a bit too much wire when soldering I now cannot make the connection to the crossovers. Thinking about going to Radio Shack and getting some 16 ga. silver wire and splicing small sections in and then sealing with shrink tubing. Not crazy about adding in splices but what else can I do?.....nothing's ever easy for me!Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Muncy - You'll be ok as you don't have much of a choice. Just make the solder connections nice and seal them up as you planned. It will work great and always buy long post binders. You could replace the whole section of wire....
There's no audible difference between two high quality binders. Cardas vs Vampire? N/A.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Well, of course they did not have 16 ga. wire, so instead of going smaller I picked up some 12 ga. This won't pose any problems will it?Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Nope, 100% AOK.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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I'm toying with the idea of replacing the wire but where would I get the plastic connector?Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Polk customer service does not have the plastic connector but referred me to 2 possible sources. Can anybody tell me what this clip is called? There are no markings on it.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Mouser Electronics. You have to order the pins separate that snap into the plastic blocks..
Vertical pin headers, I'm sure your after the male if your thinking of doing the wiring.. -
Well, I searched but could not find them at Mouser or elsewhere. So, I thought I would do the splices and opened up the wire I got at Rat Shack. I specified I wanted stranded silver wire...it's stranded copper. So, another dumb question before I solder...does this matter?Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Yes and no. Get solid if possible as it corrodes less and is far easier to deal with and tin properly. Can you use it? Of course.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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I specified I wanted stranded silver wire...it's stranded copper. So, another dumb question before I solder...does this matter?
I like stranded copper the best. The original is tinned stranded copper, why would you want silver?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Well, I searched but could not find them at Mouser or elsewhere.
Look under AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK connectors with 0.250" centers.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Looked for silver since that's what Polk has in there. Didn't know if there would be some sort of reaction between the 2 over time?Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Looked for silver since that's what Polk has in there. Didn't know if there would be some sort of reaction between the 2 over time?
It's not silver, it's tinned stranded copper.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
OK. Oxidation is a minimal concern? My 100/140 watt iron seems to take forever to melt the solder...what size iron is best for this?Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
It's tinned to help prevent oxidation....no worries.
The Cardas posts are beefy, so it takes a while for them to heat up. It's best to solder the wires before mounting the posts as the heat needed can melt the binding post plate.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
