HDMI Cable for Projector

mufsoman
mufsoman Posts: 631
edited January 2012 in Electronics
Help me pick a HDMI cable to attach to a projector. This cable would connect to my bluray player or AVR and run behind a drywalled wall and across a drywalled ceiling to a ceiling mounted projector. The ceiling does have a conduit encased electric run (Chicago electric standards for conduit vs. Romex). The cable length would be 25 -30 ft and needs to be 3D capable. The choices are:

1. Monoprice - 22 awg, CL2 rated, $42 each
2. BLC - Series-1 Beldon bonded pair, $87 each
3 Audioquest - Cinnamon or Chocolate or other, >$300 each

Which would you choose?
Parasound HCA-2003A & 2205A
Front: Rti12's
Center: Csi A6
Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
APC H15
Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
The rest is TBD.
Post edited by mufsoman on

Comments

  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited January 2012
    The Monoprice, but their 22AWG HDMI cables are hard to bend.

    If you need a more flexible cable then perhaps the BLC or Audioquest would work better.
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  • Sherardp
    Sherardp Posts: 8,038
    edited January 2012
    The Belden cable from Bluejeans, I use this with no problems. I have read about too many issues with the monoprice cable over longer runs. I use the BLC in my HT with no problems. I would suggest you run two (have a spare) just in case. Also test the cable before you run it in wall.
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  • mufsoman
    mufsoman Posts: 631
    edited January 2012
    Should I provide any additional sheilding for the HDMI cables in the wall/ceiling? Wrap the cables with something?
    Parasound HCA-2003A & 2205A
    Front: Rti12's
    Center: Csi A6
    Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
    Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
    APC H15
    Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
    The rest is TBD.
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,776
    edited January 2012
    Another option would be Parts Express, I've never had any issues with their HDMI cables.

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=181-582
  • cstmar01
    cstmar01 Posts: 4,424
    edited January 2012
    I ran a mono price HDMI one of their best ones for a 25ft run for my projector and it wouldn't pass the signal. I was getting the white spots all over and then it just dropped out.

    I would go with BLC and call it a day. Otherwise the AQ's are good too but are more and should do about the same. I don't know how flexable they are but the mono price I had was terrible.
  • PSOVLSK
    PSOVLSK Posts: 5,204
    edited January 2012
    I've used about 4-5 HDMI from monoprice with no problems. All were short runs except my current 25', but none were for 3D.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • jaritta
    jaritta Posts: 277
    edited January 2012
    Whichever you choose, Buy a run or get a bulk cat 5 cable (shielded if you can) incase you have problems with the hdmi cable you can buy a balun that converts hdmi to cat5 and back. I peresonally had a monoprice cable fail behind my sheetrock and was very thankfull that i ran cat5 cable. It saved me a whole lot of headache! I just bought a balun and hooked it up via the cat 5.

    Some of the baluns can have problems with electrical interferance, this is why i suggest a shielded cat5 cable. Mine is not a shielded cable and every once in a while when my fridge in my bar kicks on, i will loose picture for about 5 seconds until it is able to re-sync. Not a big deal for me, but i bet it would drive some crazy.

    I am not saying that a hdmi cable wouldnt work, but 25-30 ft is about as long as you want to run it. Just think of the cat5 cable as insurance! It payed off big in my case
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  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited January 2012
    I'm running 30 ft. of the Monoprice cable with no issues, but not 3-D. Hasn't given me a single problem.
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2012
    I would also recommend using a flexible plastic conduit duct like 1 1/4", so if you need to replace this cable you could.

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  • Zeros
    Zeros Posts: 940
    edited January 2012
    I would also recommend running two cat5 cables just in case. They are cheap and if you have to, you could use baluns to run HDMI over Cat5 as a last resort.

    I guess I should have read the entire thread as Jaritta said the same thing as me. I actually ran 3 runs of Cat 5 to use the third for an IR repeater to the projector. Just a thought.
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited January 2012
    I'm running 30 ft. of the Monoprice cable with no issues , but not 3-D. Hasn't given me a single problem.
    Same here however mine is longer (45') however (also not 3D as I do not care for the marketting trap/overspending), I have to specify that I bought a repeater from monoprice at the same time as I bought the cable. Never had any issues. Our sister company also borrowed the cable from me (twice) for clients events and used with the PJ without even using the repeater and this without any issues (basically 09:00 - 17:00 type of daily use).
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    I would also recommend using a flexible plastic conduit duct like 1 1/4", so if you need to replace this cable you could.
    Agreed, panduit type of conduit is the best option IMO. The comment that the monoprice in-wall cable is very stiff is also real therefore plastic conduit will allow for better handling/management of the cable.

    BTW; BJ cables are also an innexpensive option if you prefer.
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  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited January 2012
    mufsoman wrote: »
    Should I provide any additional sheilding for the HDMI cables in the wall/ceiling? Wrap the cables with something?
    NO need what so ever! Nothing justifies that you through such time and expense. Video cables are built accordingly and do not need any add on for them to work appropriately...
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