Gorilla Wood Glue or Titebond III Wood Glue for Dog House Project?

toucanet
toucanet Posts: 580
edited February 2014 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I am in the process of building a dog house and would like to know if I should use the Gorilla Wood Glue or Titebond III Wood Glue.

I read a review that stated Titebond III is waterproof, whereas Gorilla Wood Glue is water resistant. This dog house will be caulked/primed/painted after the glue dries/cures.

Is there much of a difference between waterproof and water resistant based on the house being caulked/primed/painted?

Thanks in advance!
Post edited by toucanet on
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Comments

  • Polkersince85
    Polkersince85 Posts: 2,883
    edited January 2012
    I personally do not like Gorilla glue. I would go with the Titebond or Deck construction glue in the caulk tube. Glue it, nail it and paint.
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited January 2012
    Gorilla expands and expands and expands so much that I find it hard to control when the job needs to be neat.

    But if you clamp tightly and don't mind a bit of extra at the seams, that expansion pushes into the pores of porous materials to form a great bond.
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  • Thomasjclark45
    Thomasjclark45 Posts: 18
    edited January 2012
    Gorillia Wood glue should work just like the titebond. I ran a wood display company and we use the titebond premium wood glue. I have never used the Gorillia glue but it should work the same. As far as water resitence/proof, once they are dry it should not matter either way. Glue componds these days will be stronger than the wood you are using, and the wood will probably rot before the glue will let go. Gorillia wood glue and Gorillia glue are two differnt glues. The regular Gorillia glue does expand - I think they state about 130% expansion. This is always a pain, if you are not carefull you will expand your seams and end up with foam glue everywhere. This glue is really good for bonding different materials together as it is extremly strong, but also very difficult to work with. Gorillia, Titebond, Elmers and 3M as well as other all make wood glue which function all the same and should hold the same, so I wouldnt worry to much about what brand you use.
    What type of wood are you using as this will have a greater effect on longevity of the construction.
    Good luck.
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  • toucanet
    toucanet Posts: 580
    edited January 2012
    I plan to use A-C plywood for the majority of it and some pine for trim.
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited January 2012
    Just put a doggie door on your 1.2's and call it a day.:biggrin:
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  • Thomasjclark45
    Thomasjclark45 Posts: 18
    edited January 2012
    You should be fine with any wood glue. The only concern I would have would be warping or twisting when exposed to weather conditions. Most will state that they should hold structurally over time, but I would make sure to use some water resistent sealent. I assume that you will be painting it which will help. I typically have not delt with outdoor products, so moisture is never an issue. I tried to make a planter once out of Oak, looked beatiful, and I sealed it with a laquer, but it only lasted about 2 - 3 months before it warped and came appart. I would check with the experts (and I say that lightly) at your local home improvement store to see what they recomend for sealing the dog house.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2012
    Glue???? Use galvanised screws, you ain't building a piano.:lol:
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited January 2012
    Titebond III, 'nuff said.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited January 2012
    F1nut wrote: »
    Titebond III, 'nuff said.
    +1!

    The only wood glue I use. Great bond, long working time, waterproof, etc...
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • toucanet
    toucanet Posts: 580
    edited January 2012
    Thanks for the responses!

    I purchased Titebond III and glued two pieces of wood together (around 1:00 PM) as an experiment. Although not fully dry/cured, the bond is extremely strong. I'm impressed to say the least.

    Thanks again.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited January 2012
    If you didn't know this already, clamping is the key to a good glued joint.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • HHStuart
    HHStuart Posts: 263
    edited February 2014
    Another consideration is how cold the area is in which you are making the dog house.Tite Bond III is good down to 45 degrees F which is lower than many other types of glue. I use it in my basement to make cherry furniture and I have had problems with other than Tite Bond III. On the other hand, I would probably put it together with deck screws.
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  • agfrost
    agfrost Posts: 2,430
    edited February 2014
    Spam post above yours waking up this thread, HH. Reported.
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  • HHStuart
    HHStuart Posts: 263
    edited February 2014
    agfrost wrote: »
    Spam post above yours waking up this thread, HH. Reported.
    Are you saying mine is a spam??
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  • toucanet
    toucanet Posts: 580
    edited February 2014
    HHStuart,

    "agfrost" was referring to another post that has since been removed by the mods.

    On a side note, the dog house is still standing and shows no signs of separation where the wood was glued.

    I definitely recommend the Titebond III product.
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  • seabeerob213
    seabeerob213 Posts: 1,843
    edited February 2014
    tite bond, and some 2 inch finish nails, and i would go with OSB siding instead of the ply, A LOT less prone to warping, sagging, and bowing, and it is much nicer to look at. plain OSB sheets work fine for the roof, probably about a 3/8 or a half inch thickness. use ply for the floor though.
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  • seabeerob213
    seabeerob213 Posts: 1,843
    edited February 2014
    roof it with whatever you like for material, make sure to cut the nail ends off
    2 Channel(work in progress):DAC: Schiit modi 2 uberAmp:Parasound 1200 MK IISub:RBH 1010-SEP Speakers: Monitor 5A peerlesscurrently running some krk rokit 3g since the HK pre outs died and i need to start breaking everything down to move in a couple monthsHeadphones:Source: tidalDAC: schiit modius epre: schiit sysAmp: AQ dragonfly black/ schiit magni2 Cans: Velodyne V-True, Grado SR225i, sennheiser x drop gaming headsetPC:DAC: schiit modius e(over spdif)pre: schiit sysspeakers: prenous eris 5 xtSub: Earthquake Sound MiniMe-P63most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)"WITH WILLING HEARTS AND SKILLFUL HANDS, THE DIFFICULT WE DO AT ONCE, THE IMPOSSIBLE TAKES A BIT LONGER, WITH COMPASSION FOR OTHERS. WE BUILD - WE FIGHT FOR PEACE WITH FREEDOM"Seabee Memorial, Arlington, VA
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  • seabeerob213
    seabeerob213 Posts: 1,843
    edited February 2014
    oops, old thread
    2 Channel(work in progress):DAC: Schiit modi 2 uberAmp:Parasound 1200 MK IISub:RBH 1010-SEP Speakers: Monitor 5A peerlesscurrently running some krk rokit 3g since the HK pre outs died and i need to start breaking everything down to move in a couple monthsHeadphones:Source: tidalDAC: schiit modius epre: schiit sysAmp: AQ dragonfly black/ schiit magni2 Cans: Velodyne V-True, Grado SR225i, sennheiser x drop gaming headsetPC:DAC: schiit modius e(over spdif)pre: schiit sysspeakers: prenous eris 5 xtSub: Earthquake Sound MiniMe-P63most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)"WITH WILLING HEARTS AND SKILLFUL HANDS, THE DIFFICULT WE DO AT ONCE, THE IMPOSSIBLE TAKES A BIT LONGER, WITH COMPASSION FOR OTHERS. WE BUILD - WE FIGHT FOR PEACE WITH FREEDOM"Seabee Memorial, Arlington, VA
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