What do I do with the rubber surrounding new woofers?

Swordphsh
Swordphsh Posts: 18
edited January 2012 in Vintage Speakers
I have replacement woofers for my SDA2Bs and noticed the rubber surrounding the old ones has notches cut out for the screws, but the new ones do not.

Is it safe to use a knife and cut out a tiny notch in the rubber or should I just overlap it onto the screw?

Thanks.
Post edited by Swordphsh on

Comments

  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited January 2012
    I would recommend trimming enough out for the screw heads. If you don't, the heads will twist the surround when you tighten them down. Just be careful not to cut into the flexible part of the surround.
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited January 2012
    Swordphsh wrote: »
    I have replacement woofers for my SDA2Bs and noticed the rubber surrounding the old ones has notches cut out for the screws, but the new ones do not.

    Is it safe to use a knife and cut out a tiny notch in the rubber or should I just overlap it onto the screw?

    Thanks.

    I've found that if there is any rubber at all under the screw heads, it will twist and pull the rubber and cause problems when you tighten it down.

    I've always carefully studied the cutouts on the orignial drivers and then used a brand new extremely sharp Exacto knife to remove the same amount of rubber to make clearance so the screw head is directly touching the driver's metal rim.
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  • Swordphsh
    Swordphsh Posts: 18
    edited January 2012
    That's what I figured. Just wanted to make sure.

    Thanks guys.
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited January 2012
    You will love those (2B's, right?) when you are done.

    Splitting hairs, but I've found original 6503's and 6511's seem to have a slightly clearer presentation, but Polk replacement's are darn close.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited January 2012
    +1, make the cuts or else the rubber will catch on the screw and possibly "rip" the rubber as you tighten the screw. I bought a pair of Monitors where someone had done, just that-not made the cuts and caused a 3/4" tear in the rubber surround that compromised its seal and integrity!

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

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  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,081
    edited January 2012
    It seems to me Polk Audio would do this "cut" before they ship. Does that seem odd to anybody else?
  • Swordphsh
    Swordphsh Posts: 18
    edited January 2012
    You will love those (2B's, right?) when you are done.
    I loved them before I found out both 6503s had frozen voice coils. Can't wait until I install both new ones....working on that currently.
    It seems to me Polk Audio would do this "cut" before they ship. Does that seem odd to anybody else?
    Agreed. I was surprised when I got them. It covers most of the hole in the metal surround, too...so it's not like they don't see it.
  • Swordphsh
    Swordphsh Posts: 18
    edited January 2012
    I'm all set and they sound great.

    Now what do I do with the bad woofers? I feel bad throwing them away.