speaker noize
Systems
Posts: 14,873
Hi, I am running the 5.25 JBL in my doors off a Profile. When the car is off the speakers sound cool, but when the car is running there is a whine comming out of both of them. I have a mini truck and had to move the battery to the bed, just in front of the right wheel well. If I rev the motor up, the whine goes up with it. The battery wires run under the truck right next to the chassis on the right. The amp is between the seats with the X-overs under each seat. The amp gets its signal from the rca output and runs from the deck over the transmission straight back to the amp. Thought I should include all that in order to get an accurate response. The power wire runs into the cab on the right and goes behind the right seat to the amp, the ground is a mere 8 inches away right next to the seat. Everything works so it's hooked up right, just that damn noise. Please help. I can get pictures if you need, but I don't think you do.
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Post edited by Unknown User on
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just try moving the wires around and basically do trial and error...make sure your rcas and speaker wires and power wires are away from each other and any other car wires
what brand of wire do you have for each?(rca, speaker, power)
-Cody -
audiobahn for rca (triple shielded), stock for speakers, and I got some 6 guage from my old high school. For the amp to x-over I used the extra wire that came with my door poper solenoids.Testing
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go to www.knukonceptz.com and get some power wire...theyre dirt cheap...get some monster speaker wire...that might be your problem
move the stuff around first...might save you some money
-Cody -
i agree... the power wire is probably not a problem.... power wire is power wire, and even the shittiest 6 gauge is prolly fine for a profile amp that nomally would call for 8 gauge (2 channel to push 5.25"s).
however, ya -- monster cable XP is fantastic speaker wire. really really good stuff... you can get away with radio shack stuff - i do - but when you start having problems, revert to the better stuff, often times it eliminates problems.
patch cables -- get something worth while... streetwires zero noise 3.5 cables are inexpensive, quality, and put everything else in their price range to shame. if you can find a set of old 5.0 cables, jump on them... or if you can afford the 6.0, go for those, however for your application i think the 3.5 will do fine.
check for a bad ground as well... shave the **** out of the paint under your grounds and once their screwed back on, silicone over them. bad grounds often reveal alternator whirring when the motor is gassed.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
I had the exact same problem after all my equipment was installed. My installers insisted on noise filters even though I was very hesitant. They worked, bottom line. This was even after they installed much better RCA cables. Nothing would work, and we finally figured out that it was probably the head unit that couldn't filter out the noise because when we would move it away from the dash-the noise would stop. They didn't even charge me for the noise filters so I'm guessing they aren't that expensive. They're passive, they just go somewhere between the RCA cables and the amp. These forum dwellers might say that they're a waste of money, they certainly know a lot more than I do, but I also know that Monster cables are very expensive and that the noise filters fixed my problem.
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... for low power applications noise filters do work (not that yours was low power... i think your experience was just an oddity). however, in high power situations, you'll notice a certain degredation in quality of sound -- just one more piece of equipment youre runnin signal through before it hits money... that's all. but it may be what fixes your but -- they're about 20 bucks per module -- each module has one left and right input (normally).
circuit **** - worst buy or any of the like stores should have them in their respective roadshops.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
for the speaker wire, should I go ahead and redo the whole set up in monster wire or just the amp to x-over connection. I'm thinking you guys mean the whole set up, just making sure. Aslo, real quick, what the hell is the ACC wire and what does it do? Thankx for all the responses. I shaved the ground to hell, but the noise is still there.Testing
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I had a similar problem, you can also try a ground run from the deck to the amp so that they have a common ground, and any other components that have a ground, this seemed to fix mine.
I also agree about the noise filters, those are a 50/50 shot some actually induce more noise so it seems....
ACC is accessory (power when key is turned on) and you hook your decks red wire to acc. so that your sytem will turn off with key.. and not stay on and kill battery while your away
ENGINE NOIZE SUCKSSpeakers:
Definitive BP7001sc mains
Definitive C/L/R 3000 center
Polk RT800i's rears
Definitive supercube I Sub
Audio:
Onkyo TX-NR3010
Emotiva XPA five Gen 3
OPPO BDP-103 CD, SACD, DVD-A
Video:
Panasonic TC-P65ZT60
OPPO BDP-103 Bluray
Directv x's 2 -
if your deck has a dimmer lead coming off the harness and you have this connected to your lights, you can try and disconnect that too.. this can induce noize also.Speakers:
Definitive BP7001sc mains
Definitive C/L/R 3000 center
Polk RT800i's rears
Definitive supercube I Sub
Audio:
Onkyo TX-NR3010
Emotiva XPA five Gen 3
OPPO BDP-103 CD, SACD, DVD-A
Video:
Panasonic TC-P65ZT60
OPPO BDP-103 Bluray
Directv x's 2 -
when we say redo your speaker wire we mean redo from amp to crossover, then from crossover to speaker... alllllll the speaker wire...
it would be a good idea to do that anyway -- i mean even if u do the radio shack ****... just because **** wire sucks... and will even cause interference itself.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
Do you mean run the deck ground to dirrectly to the amp where the ground wire comes out or run the deck ground to the floor where the amp gound is screwed down?Testing
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ground your deck as normal behind your dash and also run a ground wire from your deck right to the high amp.
found this might be of help might not..
alternator noizeSpeakers:
Definitive BP7001sc mains
Definitive C/L/R 3000 center
Polk RT800i's rears
Definitive supercube I Sub
Audio:
Onkyo TX-NR3010
Emotiva XPA five Gen 3
OPPO BDP-103 CD, SACD, DVD-A
Video:
Panasonic TC-P65ZT60
OPPO BDP-103 Bluray
Directv x's 2 -
I think I read somewhere that you should ground all amps on that same spot on the chassi. But the article says to ground everything independently. So do I run both grounds (2 amps) to the same spot or ground each amp in on different spot? Thanks to all for helping. This has turned out to be the biggest pain in the **** on my truck yet. When it's all said and done it will be worth it, and **** giving $$$ to a shop to do it. All the push is **** audiobahn and ma audio. Actual conversation:
Me-I need an amp that does 75W RMS into 2 channels @ 4 ohms
Him-This amp does 400W RMS into 2 channels
Me-I only need 75
Him-Just turn down the gain
Me-Why the **** would I spend the extra money to turn down
the gain?
Him-Oh...
Moral of the story:
Don't buy from shops, their morons.
I'm sure most folks on here know that, but I'm just sayn'Testing
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ideally the BEST ground would be where u shave the **** out of a nice spot on the chassis, ground a piece of wire about 1 foot long that's double the size of your amp's gauge (like if you have two amps that each have an 8 gauge power/ground wire -- use 4 gauge... two amps that have 4 gauge -- use a singel 2 gauge... u get the idea).. and then run that short piece to a distribution block -- out of the block, run ground to each amp. this will give you a common grounding spot (not to be confused with common ground -- they all have a common ground no matter where on teh chassis u ground them -- its one big hunk of metal). i dont know if it really helps all that much, but i've made of habit out of it only for neatness sake.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge