Joe's Speakers

2»

Comments

  • Phasewolf
    Phasewolf Posts: 514
    edited January 2012
    If you don't mind me asking way so far offer the back wall with the sda's? I book they came with if I remember correctly said 3 feet from the side walls and 6" from the rear. With them so far off would it not effect the bass by reducing it.
    Absolute corruption empowers absolutely.

    Lg 55LW5600 TV
    Onkyo PR-SC 5508
    Legacy Audio Focus SE
    Legacy Audio Silverscreen HD center
    Polk F/X500i Rears
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Sunfire Grand Cinema
    Behringer iNUKE NU6000DSP
    Pair of CraigSUB SS-18.1
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,133
    edited January 2012
    Phasewolf wrote: »
    If you don't mind me asking way so far offer the back wall with the sda's? I book they came with if I remember correctly said 3 feet from the side walls and 6" from the rear. With them so far off would it not effect the bass by reducing it.
    I have to have mine 12" from the wall so that the equipment rack doesn't rack stick out in front of them. It's important for the soundstage to not have anything in the way in between them. I had thought the same thing after reading the manual and I tried moving them back a little bit. Surprisingly I didn't notice any increased bass but I didn't like the idea of the rack mucking up the soundstage. Far be it from me to offer advice on setting up sda's. I've actually learned more in the past 3 weeks about proper set up from Joe than I learned in the past 5 years of owning 2.3s.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited January 2012
    I have tried having my speakers further out from the wall and I found that 6-8 inches from the wall the best, as far as center imaging I noticed no improvement moving the speakers out 12-14 inches, I also didn't like the way they looked further from the wall. For my room the bass is perfect 6-8 from the wall.

    I also have the bass braces to the wall as well as have them spiked.
  • Vette C6.r
    Vette C6.r Posts: 1,560
    edited January 2012
    Toolfan66 wrote: »

    I also have the bass braces to the wall as well as have them spiked.

    Did you notice much difference with the brace ??
  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited January 2012
    Vette C6.r wrote: »
    Did you notice much difference with the brace ??

    I've wondered this too. I imagine it makes some but how much? Seems like more of a security measure than an audible tweak.
    Too much **** to list....
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited January 2012
    Vette C6.r wrote: »
    Did you notice much difference with the brace ??

    Yes, not as big as spiking them but putting the bass brace on took all the sway out of them and has them sitting solid. You know how you can feel a little vibration from a sub floor just walking across the room? That's gone. I'm sure if the speakers are spiked on a solid concrete floor the bass brace is useless. But yes it seemed to tighten everything up a little more. I even wrapped the all thread with foam to help with what little vibration that transfers to the wall. I like the fact how solid they feel if nothing else.
  • Vette C6.r
    Vette C6.r Posts: 1,560
    edited January 2012
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Yes, not as big as spiking them but putting the bass brace on took all the sway out of them and has them sitting solid. You know how you can feel a little vibration from a sub floor just walking across the room? That's gone. I'm sure if the speakers are spiked on a solid concrete floor the bass brace is useless. But yes it seemed to tighten everything up a little more. I even wrapped the all thread with foam to help with what little vibration that transfers to the wall. I like the fact how solid they feel if nothing else.


    Interesting....thanks for the info Larry.
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,133
    edited January 2012
    Yee hah! Joe has located the custom brass crossover plates and they're on their way to me.:biggrin: I guess they were pretty well packed away in Joe's storage but he did manage to find them. Now a couple of questions for those in the know. When I pull off the old plate is the crossover going to come with it? Or is the plate just a simple covering for the crossover and not attached to it? I really hate to tear into them but these brass plates are really nice looking. Also on their way are some MYE spikes from Joe as well. I have just a bit more placement issues I want to try out before I put the spikes on to mount the big boys permanently.

    Listening impressions are great and the more I listen to these awesome speakers the more I like them. I thought they were just a little bit better than my 2.3s at first. But having lived with them for a couple of weeks now I do know now that they're much much better than the 2.3s. Those 4 tweeters really make the highs sparkle and the bass will actually slam you in gut with the preamp settings bypassed. The sweetspot is definately bigger also. Yessir; to say that I'm pleased with "Joe's speakers" and dealing with Joe as well is a gross understatement. Now if I could get a set of Larry's rings......... 3 pm's have gone unanswered so I'm guessing that I've missed the boat on them:sad:
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited January 2012
    Yes the crossover will come out with it it's a very easy swap. Glad he found them enjoy!!!

    You will have a PM later today.
  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited January 2012
    Lasareath wrote: »
    One thing to note: When you measure the speaker from the back wall take that measurement from the bottom and from the top. my 1.2tl's were not standing perfectly straight up, one was leaning back and one was leaning forward a hair. now they are both exactly 12.5" from the back wall if I measure from the bottom and the top plates.

    I'd just point out that this assumes your walls are exactly plumb. I've yet to meet that wall myself, but yours might be. I use a bubble level to get the speakers standing straight, because I know for a fact my walls are not perfectly straight, so I don't assume they're plumb either.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
    Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,133
    edited January 2012
    quadzilla wrote: »
    I'd just point out that this assumes your walls are exactly plumb. I've yet to meet that wall myself, but yours might be. I use a bubble level to get the speakers standing straight, because I know for a fact my walls are not perfectly straight, so I don't assume they're plumb either.
    I did the same thing because my walls aren't even close to being plumb. But the 1.2's are the most plumb, square, and level piece in the room. Well with the exception of the tt.
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,133
    edited January 2012
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Yes the crossover will come out with it it's a very easy swap. Glad he found them enjoy!!!

    You will have a PM later today.
    I'm glad to hear it's an easy swap and yes I'm glad as well that he was able to find them as he is a man of his word. Joe has been an immense help to me on a daily basis with me asking him all kinds of questions. He's no doubt forgot more about his speakers than I know or probably ever will know. He says your rings are the cat's meow and that's plenty good enough for me. I'm certainly looking forward to that pm Larry.
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,663
    edited January 2012
    Joe is a wealth of knowledge. Tell him I said Hi.
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited January 2012
    he is a man of his word.

    Hahahahahahaha Thanks I needed the laugh...
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited January 2012
    I did the same thing because my walls aren't even close to being plumb. But the 1.2's are the most plumb, square, and level piece in the room. Well with the exception of the tt.

    First, thanks for the PM's. Mission accomplished :cheesygrin:.

    One fine-tuning suggestion (I'm sure Joe covered), but in case not; Gear on the same wall as the speakers may protrude farther from the back wall than the front plane of the speaker drivers. This can cause reflection problems.

    I've found it's best to completely avoid this if possible. It's not a critical problem between the passives, a little more problematic between the mid woofers, and capable of causing big imaging problems if gear protrudes between tweeters.

    Somtimes the backs of the speaker cabinets have to be moved out farther than the optimal 8 inches (this could sacrifice bass), or the offending gear moved to a different location.

    Congrats on a great setup!
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,133
    edited January 2012
    First, thanks for the PM's. Mission accomplished :cheesygrin:.

    One fine-tuning suggestion (I'm sure Joe covered), but in case not; Gear on the same wall as the speakers may protrude farther from the back wall than the front plane of the speaker drivers. This can cause reflection problems.

    I've found it's best to completely avoid this if possible. It's not a critical problem between the passives, a little more problematic between the mid woofers, and capable of causing big imaging problems if gear protrudes between tweeters.

    Somtimes the backs of the speaker cabinets have to be moved out farther than the optimal 8 inches (this could sacrifice bass), or the offending gear moved to a different location.

    Congrats on a great setup!
    Thanks for the advice. Yes I had to place the gear between the speakers and I built the rack as short as possible in order to get the speakers as close to the wall as I can. They're about 4" in front of the gear rack right now and about 11" from the back wall. I'd like to move them back closer to the wall but I don't want to muck up that awesome soundstage by having the gear rack stick out. I wonder if I could get away with an inch in front of the gear rack and move them back to grab a little more bass? Not that I need more bass but after hearing what they're capable of.......
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,133
    edited January 2012
    engtaz wrote: »
    Joe is a wealth of knowledge. Tell him I said Hi.
    Will do
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,133
    edited January 2012
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Hahahahahahaha Thanks I needed the laugh...
    I'm sorry to hear of your falling out with Joe. He's been totally honest and straightforward with me. I don't want to get in the middle of something that I know very little about but I do know he does not have your rings. Apparently they got lost by USPS when he was having problems and shipped them back. If he had them I would've come home with them. It's by his recommendation only that I hope that I can acquire a set for his old speakers. His exact words were that "Larry's rings were a stroke of genius".
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited January 2012
    I'm sorry to hear of your falling out with Joe. He's been totally honest and straightforward with me. I don't want to get in the middle of something that I know very little about but I do know he does not have your rings. Apparently they got lost by USPS when he was having problems and shipped them back. If he had them I would've come home with them. It's by his recommendation only that I hope that I can acquire a set for his old speakers. His exact words were that "Larry's rings were a stroke of genius".


    Sure, and that's why he ceased any communication with me and never made it right. Let me put it to you this way I sold two SL2000 tweeters to a Polkie here on the forum he contacted me that one of them wasn't working and asked if I could at least refund him half of his money back for the tweeter, I refunded him in full (Right thing to do) just a couple of months ago I sold a two MW6510's to another Polkie here on the forum when he received them the magnets shifted I refunded him in full as well (Right thing to do) this is how one is a stand up member IMO!!! You don't lie and cease conversation you make it right, and Joe failed on all accounts..

    With that said I do wish and hope he gets his **** together..
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited January 2012
    Thanks for the advice. Yes I had to place the gear between the speakers and I built the rack as short as possible in order to get the speakers as close to the wall as I can. They're about 4" in front of the gear rack right now and about 11" from the back wall. I'd like to move them back closer to the wall but I don't want to muck up that awesome soundstage by having the gear rack stick out. I wonder if I could get away with an inch in front of the gear rack and move them back to grab a little more bass? Not that I need more bass but after hearing what they're capable of.......

    We are splitting hairs now, but I've found the front of the gear rack flush with the front plane of the tweeters is fine.

    Gear "sticking out" a bit between passives seems to make no difference at all, and between the mids I can't say either way for sure.

    Tweeter frequencies are the most directional and therefore most subject to reflections if you are listening critically enough for micro-imaging differences.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • Vette C6.r
    Vette C6.r Posts: 1,560
    edited January 2012
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    , I refunded him in full (Right thing to do) just a couple of months ago I sold a two MW6510's to another Polkie here on the forum when he received them the magnets shifted I refunded him in full as well (Right thing to do) r..

    Yes he did. You're a good man Larry.
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,133
    edited January 2012
    We are splitting hairs now, but I've found the front of the gear rack flush with the front plane of the tweeters is fine.

    Gear "sticking out" a bit between passives seems to make no difference at all, and between the mids I can't say either way for sure.

    Tweeter frequencies are the most directional and therefore most subject to reflections if you are listening critically enough for micro-imaging differences.
    Well in the short time I've owned the 1.2s I've found that splitting hairs is what makes or breaks them. I honestly wouldn't have believed moving those monsters a little bit and there could have such a profound impact on the sound. I do believe it's time for me to move them back a little closer to the wall. Thank you for your advice.