Joe's Speakers
Comments
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If you don't mind me asking way so far offer the back wall with the sda's? I book they came with if I remember correctly said 3 feet from the side walls and 6" from the rear. With them so far off would it not effect the bass by reducing it.Absolute corruption empowers absolutely.
Lg 55LW5600 TV
Onkyo PR-SC 5508
Legacy Audio Focus SE
Legacy Audio Silverscreen HD center
Polk F/X500i Rears
Parasound HCA-3500
Sunfire Grand Cinema
Behringer iNUKE NU6000DSP
Pair of CraigSUB SS-18.1 -
If you don't mind me asking way so far offer the back wall with the sda's? I book they came with if I remember correctly said 3 feet from the side walls and 6" from the rear. With them so far off would it not effect the bass by reducing it.
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I have tried having my speakers further out from the wall and I found that 6-8 inches from the wall the best, as far as center imaging I noticed no improvement moving the speakers out 12-14 inches, I also didn't like the way they looked further from the wall. For my room the bass is perfect 6-8 from the wall.
I also have the bass braces to the wall as well as have them spiked. -
I also have the bass braces to the wall as well as have them spiked.
Did you notice much difference with the brace ?? -
Vette C6.r wrote: »Did you notice much difference with the brace ??
I've wondered this too. I imagine it makes some but how much? Seems like more of a security measure than an audible tweak.Too much **** to list.... -
Vette C6.r wrote: »Did you notice much difference with the brace ??
Yes, not as big as spiking them but putting the bass brace on took all the sway out of them and has them sitting solid. You know how you can feel a little vibration from a sub floor just walking across the room? That's gone. I'm sure if the speakers are spiked on a solid concrete floor the bass brace is useless. But yes it seemed to tighten everything up a little more. I even wrapped the all thread with foam to help with what little vibration that transfers to the wall. I like the fact how solid they feel if nothing else. -
Yes, not as big as spiking them but putting the bass brace on took all the sway out of them and has them sitting solid. You know how you can feel a little vibration from a sub floor just walking across the room? That's gone. I'm sure if the speakers are spiked on a solid concrete floor the bass brace is useless. But yes it seemed to tighten everything up a little more. I even wrapped the all thread with foam to help with what little vibration that transfers to the wall. I like the fact how solid they feel if nothing else.
Interesting....thanks for the info Larry. -
Yee hah! Joe has located the custom brass crossover plates and they're on their way to me.:biggrin: I guess they were pretty well packed away in Joe's storage but he did manage to find them. Now a couple of questions for those in the know. When I pull off the old plate is the crossover going to come with it? Or is the plate just a simple covering for the crossover and not attached to it? I really hate to tear into them but these brass plates are really nice looking. Also on their way are some MYE spikes from Joe as well. I have just a bit more placement issues I want to try out before I put the spikes on to mount the big boys permanently.
Listening impressions are great and the more I listen to these awesome speakers the more I like them. I thought they were just a little bit better than my 2.3s at first. But having lived with them for a couple of weeks now I do know now that they're much much better than the 2.3s. Those 4 tweeters really make the highs sparkle and the bass will actually slam you in gut with the preamp settings bypassed. The sweetspot is definately bigger also. Yessir; to say that I'm pleased with "Joe's speakers" and dealing with Joe as well is a gross understatement. Now if I could get a set of Larry's rings......... 3 pm's have gone unanswered so I'm guessing that I've missed the boat on them:sad: -
Yes the crossover will come out with it it's a very easy swap. Glad he found them enjoy!!!
You will have a PM later today. -
One thing to note: When you measure the speaker from the back wall take that measurement from the bottom and from the top. my 1.2tl's were not standing perfectly straight up, one was leaning back and one was leaning forward a hair. now they are both exactly 12.5" from the back wall if I measure from the bottom and the top plates.
I'd just point out that this assumes your walls are exactly plumb. I've yet to meet that wall myself, but yours might be. I use a bubble level to get the speakers standing straight, because I know for a fact my walls are not perfectly straight, so I don't assume they're plumb either.Turntable: Empire 208
Arm: Rega 300
Cart: Shelter 501 III
Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified -
I'd just point out that this assumes your walls are exactly plumb. I've yet to meet that wall myself, but yours might be. I use a bubble level to get the speakers standing straight, because I know for a fact my walls are not perfectly straight, so I don't assume they're plumb either.
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Yes the crossover will come out with it it's a very easy swap. Glad he found them enjoy!!!
You will have a PM later today. -
Joe is a wealth of knowledge. Tell him I said Hi.engtaz
I love how music can brighten up a bad day. -
motorstereo wrote: »he is a man of his word.
Hahahahahahaha Thanks I needed the laugh... -
motorstereo wrote: »I did the same thing because my walls aren't even close to being plumb. But the 1.2's are the most plumb, square, and level piece in the room. Well with the exception of the tt.
First, thanks for the PM's. Mission accomplished :cheesygrin:.
One fine-tuning suggestion (I'm sure Joe covered), but in case not; Gear on the same wall as the speakers may protrude farther from the back wall than the front plane of the speaker drivers. This can cause reflection problems.
I've found it's best to completely avoid this if possible. It's not a critical problem between the passives, a little more problematic between the mid woofers, and capable of causing big imaging problems if gear protrudes between tweeters.
Somtimes the backs of the speaker cabinets have to be moved out farther than the optimal 8 inches (this could sacrifice bass), or the offending gear moved to a different location.
Congrats on a great setup!VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »First, thanks for the PM's. Mission accomplished :cheesygrin:.
One fine-tuning suggestion (I'm sure Joe covered), but in case not; Gear on the same wall as the speakers may protrude farther from the back wall than the front plane of the speaker drivers. This can cause reflection problems.
I've found it's best to completely avoid this if possible. It's not a critical problem between the passives, a little more problematic between the mid woofers, and capable of causing big imaging problems if gear protrudes between tweeters.
Somtimes the backs of the speaker cabinets have to be moved out farther than the optimal 8 inches (this could sacrifice bass), or the offending gear moved to a different location.
Congrats on a great setup! -
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Hahahahahahaha Thanks I needed the laugh...
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motorstereo wrote: »I'm sorry to hear of your falling out with Joe. He's been totally honest and straightforward with me. I don't want to get in the middle of something that I know very little about but I do know he does not have your rings. Apparently they got lost by USPS when he was having problems and shipped them back. If he had them I would've come home with them. It's by his recommendation only that I hope that I can acquire a set for his old speakers. His exact words were that "Larry's rings were a stroke of genius".
Sure, and that's why he ceased any communication with me and never made it right. Let me put it to you this way I sold two SL2000 tweeters to a Polkie here on the forum he contacted me that one of them wasn't working and asked if I could at least refund him half of his money back for the tweeter, I refunded him in full (Right thing to do) just a couple of months ago I sold a two MW6510's to another Polkie here on the forum when he received them the magnets shifted I refunded him in full as well (Right thing to do) this is how one is a stand up member IMO!!! You don't lie and cease conversation you make it right, and Joe failed on all accounts..
With that said I do wish and hope he gets his **** together.. -
motorstereo wrote: »Thanks for the advice. Yes I had to place the gear between the speakers and I built the rack as short as possible in order to get the speakers as close to the wall as I can. They're about 4" in front of the gear rack right now and about 11" from the back wall. I'd like to move them back closer to the wall but I don't want to muck up that awesome soundstage by having the gear rack stick out. I wonder if I could get away with an inch in front of the gear rack and move them back to grab a little more bass? Not that I need more bass but after hearing what they're capable of.......
We are splitting hairs now, but I've found the front of the gear rack flush with the front plane of the tweeters is fine.
Gear "sticking out" a bit between passives seems to make no difference at all, and between the mids I can't say either way for sure.
Tweeter frequencies are the most directional and therefore most subject to reflections if you are listening critically enough for micro-imaging differences.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
, I refunded him in full (Right thing to do) just a couple of months ago I sold a two MW6510's to another Polkie here on the forum when he received them the magnets shifted I refunded him in full as well (Right thing to do) r..
Yes he did. You're a good man Larry. -
inspiredsports wrote: »We are splitting hairs now, but I've found the front of the gear rack flush with the front plane of the tweeters is fine.
Gear "sticking out" a bit between passives seems to make no difference at all, and between the mids I can't say either way for sure.
Tweeter frequencies are the most directional and therefore most subject to reflections if you are listening critically enough for micro-imaging differences.