Samsung LN46A650 Issues

mrbiron
mrbiron Posts: 5,711
edited January 2012 in Electronics
Good afternoon all,

I just recently went to turn on my beloved TV when the oddest quirk started happening.
The TV plays it's initial melody, clicks, and then turns off all in a matter of 5 seconds. The screen does not even turn on and this continues endlessly. The little lady had told me after a while, it did finally turn on but we are talking 10-15 minutes of looping. She's far more persistent than i am.

A couple nights ago, i was using my computer to send signal to the TV via HDMI and thought that the TV might still be searching for that signal but it should still turn on. Stumped.

What is going on here? I have eliminated everything from the equation by unplugging all components from the TV and still to no avail, she's hurtin!

Have any of you had luck with Geek Squad coming out and checking your TV?
Have any of you experienced this with your TV's and if so, how did you rectify it? I've been reading about possible bad caps on the power board??

Thanks!
Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
Post edited by mrbiron on

Comments

  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,726
    edited December 2011
    I've read about several Samsung models with bad caps, but don't recall the specific model numbers.
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited December 2011
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
    edited December 2011
    Thanks THSmith. I remembered briefly reading your thread when you first started it and thought to myself, I have no problem with Samsung, my TV still looks great! I want to say flat out that i am Sorry! i labeled you in my head but now can sympathize with your pain. I hope this doesn't offend you :redface:

    I just looked up when i purchased this thing on Amazon. May 15th 2008...3-1/2 years old!! It's just a baby!
    1year on parts and labor...YACK!

    First i am going to pop the back off and see if the caps are shot. I have never soldered in my life but am willing to give it a whirl if the process is easy. I didn't notice but did your repair fix the problem and is your TV running again?

    Also, am still looking for thoughts on the geeks over at best buy. Good, Bad??
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited December 2011
    DO it yourself, look at youtube search for Samsung LCD repair. Yes it did fix my problem.


    Not offended at all, there will be others here that have LCD Samsungs that will experience the problem unfortnately.

    The repair if paying someone will be $300 which is nothing more than swapping the power supply board. The caps cost about $4.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
    edited December 2011
    2011-12-28_16-27-25_184.jpg
    2011-12-28_16-28-01_331.jpg
    2011-12-28_16-28-24_915.jpg


    These appear to look just like the ones you had in your TV.
    Where did you order the parts from?
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
    edited December 2011
    i see the two 10V 1000uf caps. You say to get 12V 1000uf caps

    Also, the two that are blown are 25V 1000uf caps. Do these need to be upgraded as well?
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
  • CoolJazz
    CoolJazz Posts: 570
    edited December 2011
    Those caps are certainly bulged at the top and are bad. No big surprise is that they are right next to a heat sink.

    That's the cause of the problem. Electrolytic caps and high heat sources don't make good neighbors. The end one in the one pic looks like it says 105 degree C so they did use more heat tolerant caps already.

    Any additional ventilation that you can encourage across that area would help the future life!

    Good luck with the repairs!

    CJ
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."

    More amazing Internet Science Pink Panther wisdom..."My DAC has since been upgraded from Mark Levinson to Topping."
  • Phasewolf
    Phasewolf Posts: 514
    edited December 2011
    I would order from digital key myself. Personalty I would order Nichicon HE capacitors. They are made for switching power type of work and do a good job at it.
    Absolute corruption empowers absolutely.

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  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited December 2011
    mrbiron wrote: »
    i see the two 10V 1000uf caps. You say to get 12V 1000uf caps

    Also, the two that are blown are 25V 1000uf caps. Do these need to be upgraded as well?

    The ones I used were from Frys and as long as you use a voltage 12v or higher you are fine, I think mine were 25v.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
    edited December 2011
    So i've just spent that last hour on digikey.com and haven't the faintest clue at what i am looking at.
    Can any of you completely dumb this down for me?! i Don't know tolerances, ripple current, etc...
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited December 2011
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,224
    edited December 2011
    Thanks for the pics and info as I own three Sam LCD's sorry to hear about the problem but I'm guessing this will happen sometime down the road.
  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
    edited December 2011
    Thanks THSmith......ordered. Shipping is a b*tch!...$4 in parts and $11 in shipping.....:eek:
    I bought 2 of the 16V and 2 of the 25V.

    After further investigation, the little lady tells me that this has been happening the whole week that she was off. Women!...Can't live with'em, can't kill'em. :evil:

    Toolfan...I did a lot of search last night and 75% of the stories i was reading were about 2006-2008 LCD's with the wrong parts installed. If yours are older or newer, i think you're in the clear for the time being.:wink:
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
    edited December 2011
    Soldering Iron and all the accessories have been purchased for this job. Now we are just waiting on the caps.
    I also bought a little kit from Radio Shack that have about 20 parts to solder onto a small pcb for an introductory course into soldering.
    Shipping better be on time. This 32" isn't cutting the bread from 12 feet away.
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited January 2012
    THe hardest part is removing the old cap and clearing the PCB hole of the old solder. I use a braided copper approach but others like solder suckers.

    Good luck and you will soon be back in business.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited January 2012
    I would suggest using a quality desoldering tool to help with removing the old solder. Sometimes, if the old solder doesn't come off easily, a light "tap" of the board against a table while heating the connection will get the solder to come off without damaging the board.

    You really don't want to overheat the solder pads, so this is one of those situations where the right tool comes in handy.
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  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
    edited January 2012
    I picked up the copper braid for desoldering. The suckers looked cheap but i may be so far off the ranch with this one, i just don't know any better. Caps are supposed to be in on Wednesday...HURRY UP!
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
  • michael1947
    michael1947 Posts: 775
    edited January 2012
    I think it's amazing that you guys can fix this stuff. I think I may give something a try sometime...got lots of broken stuffff.
    Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
    Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.

    Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's.
  • miner
    miner Posts: 1,305
    edited January 2012
    My 2008 model 32" 330 Series LCD developed the problem on Sunday. Called Samsung and they gave me the info to get it repaired under warranty - 1 time. Took it by the repair shop on Monday, waited while they repaired it. Took them 2 minutes. Replaved two bad caps. Bill to Samsung was going to be $76. This TV was in a workout room and was used maybe 5 hrs./week. I have the same TV in our BR.
    [