Newbie bi-amping question
hochpt21
Posts: 5,423
Receiver - Sony STR-DG1000 7.1 120Wx7
Sub - PSW10
Center - CS1
Fronts - Monitor 70
Surrounds - Monitor 30
I'm running a 5.1 setup with my 7.1 receiver. My reciever has 4 sets of binding posts available for the fronts in addition to two for the surrounds, two for the back surrounds and one for the center. Can I "bi-amp" the M70's with the "extra" two sets of front binding posts since I don't have anything hooked up to the back surrounds? Is this recommended?
I've had the M70's for awhile now and love them, but I am new to the surround sound world.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Sub - PSW10
Center - CS1
Fronts - Monitor 70
Surrounds - Monitor 30
I'm running a 5.1 setup with my 7.1 receiver. My reciever has 4 sets of binding posts available for the fronts in addition to two for the surrounds, two for the back surrounds and one for the center. Can I "bi-amp" the M70's with the "extra" two sets of front binding posts since I don't have anything hooked up to the back surrounds? Is this recommended?
I've had the M70's for awhile now and love them, but I am new to the surround sound world.
Thanks in advance for the help!
2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
Post edited by hochpt21 on
Comments
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Have fun, http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/search.php?searchid=345006
Bottom line, you're better off replacing the stock jumpers with high quality speaker wire.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Agreed!! I replaced the jumpers on my RTiA9's it made such an improvement that I had to do the center speaker, the jumpers just suck IMO..Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
The link didn't take me anywhere.
I may be out of my league...what is a jumper?2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
The brass looking piece connecting the highs and lows on your binding posts where you connect your speaker cables..Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
The link takes you to a whole lot of threads that contain info on bi-amping.
The jumpers are the gold colored plates that connect the top binding posts to the bottom posts.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ah jumpers...makes sense.
I tried the link a couple more times but it just says no matches.
Maybe this is a better question. Will I get adequate performance out of my current setup with the sony amp and 14 guage speaker wire? Then I won't even have to worry about bi-amping.
Thanks!2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
Hmmm......ok, upper right corner find the search box. Type in bi-amping.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Don't worry about bi-amping you will be fine but if you do try it make sure you take out the jumpers before power up.
Try just using some of that speaker wire and replace the jumpers as F1 stated..Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
So just replacing the jumper plates with my 14g speaker wire should give me a better sound? Basically, on one set of the binding posts the wire coming from the receiver and the wire from the other binding post will be touching, correct?
Also, does it matter if I run the wire from the receiver to the top or bottom set of posts?2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
Thanks...got some good info.2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
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So just replacing the jumper plates with my 14g speaker wire should give me a better sound?
Not should, will.Basically, on one set of the binding posts the wire coming from the receiver and the wire from the other binding post will be touching, correct?
Yes.Also, does it matter if I run the wire from the receiver to the top or bottom set of posts?
No.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Some folks here will suggest that bi-amping is a waste of time and it doesn't do anything. Fine. The same type of folk will go off and suggest that power receptacles and power cords change the sound of their audio.TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier -
Some folks here will suggest that bi-amping is a waste of time and it doesn't do anything. Fine. The same type of folk will go off and suggest that power receptacles and power cords change the sound of their audio.
That's because those same folks have actually tried those things as opposed to those other folks who mearly regurgitate what they have read instead of trying it for themselves.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The brass looking piece connecting the highs and lows on your binding posts
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Thanks spider, toolfan and F1 suggested that earlier and I have already made the switch.2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
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14 guage speaker wire? Then I won't even have to worry about bi-amping.
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Thanks spider, toolfan and F1 suggested that earlier and I have already made the switch.
As for checking out your Sony's bi-amping performance... why not try it as well? Again, I'd suggest you focus on 2-ch operation for the comparison.More later,
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