Dared Preamp on the way - Tubes are here
Stew
Posts: 645
I've been acquiring parts over the last several weeks:
Now I just need the Dared SL-2000a to go with it! Ordered it yesterday. Should be here in a week or so.
Now I just need the Dared SL-2000a to go with it! Ordered it yesterday. Should be here in a week or so.
SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
Post edited by Stew on
Comments
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I got that preamp recently and am loving it. I have a pair of Siemens ecc81's just like those also. They were a significant upgrade from the stock tubes. You should be ready to rock with those items.
What rectifier is that? I am using an RCA 5Y3GT right now and might be looking to upgrade. I'm waiting on a pair of Sylvania Gold 12AT7WA's to try out here this weekend. It should be fun to see how different they sound, be it better or worse.HT Setup: Onkyo 706; Rotel RB-1075; Rti A3; Csi A6; Fxi3's
2 CH: Squeezebox Touch; Dared SL-2000a; GoldenEar Triton 5 or Lsi9's; Parasound 2125; SVS SB12-NSD; Music Hall DAC 25.2 -
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Turntable: Empire 208
Arm: Rega 300
Cart: Shelter 501 III
Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified -
Congratulations on your new toy!
cubdogShuguang Classic S8MK
Emotiva XDA-2
Bel Canto M300 mono blocks
Bel Canto DAC 1.5
Squeezebox Touch
Sony SS-M7
A/D/S L710 -
I got the tracking info today and it should be here Thursday. Thanks to all who have posted their experiences with the Dared! I've enjoyed following the various threads and can't wait to hear for myself!
As quadzilla stated, the rectifier is a Brimar 5Z4G. The "early" Brimar 5Z4G's seem to be a favorite around here. This one is NOS from the 1960's. Hopefully that qualifies as "early."SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605 -
Everything you guys said about this little jewel is true!:cool:
My initial impressions:
Stock tubes - Sounds surprisingly good for stock tubes. A little rolled off on the highs.
Siemens ecc81's - Punch, air, sparkle - lovin these!
Brimar 5Z4G - More authority, let there be tone!
This thing rocks!
My only complaint so far - I let my daughters listen to their Selena Gomez CD and I can't pry them away from it.SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605 -
Post 8 reported.SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605 -
Congrats! Gotta love this little preamp.#1 Pass F5/Dared Sl2000a/Nola Boxers/Basis Audio 1400/Audio Technica AT33EV Phono Cartridge/Cambridge Audio 640P-Hypno Modded/GF DAC09/CPU
#2 Cayin A-50T /Hornshoppe Horns/Squeeze Box Touch/Simaudio Moon 100D DAC/Rythmic F12 Servo Sub -
Thanks. The more I listen, the more I like!
My next project is to replace the input caps with Auricaps. George - You mentioned in your mod thread that you were able to partially remove the board to gain access to the solder joints. How much fun am I going to have partially removing the board??SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605 -
Thanks. The more I listen, the more I like!
My next project is to replace the input caps with Auricaps. George - You mentioned in your mod thread that you were able to partially remove the board to gain access to the solder joints. How much fun am I going to have partially removing the board??
he,he,, it's not too bad if you take your time and move slowly,,IIRRC, you will have to remove the front,rear and volume knob,to gain acess to the solder joints,,just remember that real estate is at a premium,but once you finish,you'll be glad that you did.Post some pic's when you start please.Good luck.JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
You can see here in the photo of mine where the Auricaps are, they are easy to install. I assume you have "generic" caps in the same position. You shouldn't have to pull the boards for the input caps. To replace the output caps, (4 square yellow Carli caps in my version) you will need to pull the boards.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?117770-Holy-Grail&p=1608547&viewfull=1#post1608547"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
I removed the board in mine because of close quarters,,Brock is right,,you do not necessarily have to remove the board for input caps--output coupling caps are a different story,,sorry if I mislead anyone--rock onJC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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Thanks George and Brock. I'm planning to replace input caps over Christmas. Will post pics. I may get brave and try output caps later.SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605 -
I opened the Dared last night and found two smaller yellow capacitors (0.22 uF) and two larger yellow capacitors (1 uF). The 0.22 uF's are the input capacitors but I was expecting four of the 1 uF output caps based on George's modification thread. Any thoughts?
I'll have to gain access to the back of the board to replace any of these so I'll wait and replace input and output caps at the same time. If I'm correct that there are only two output caps, it'll be a much easier fit. Any thoughts about using Auricaps for both input and output.
It looks remotely possible to disassemble the unit as follows:
1) Remove wooden face plate to gain access to set screw underneath
2) Remove front end cap (with volume knob) and rear end cap (with input/output connections)
3) Remove screws from circuit boards and wires from choke
4) Remove wooden side panels (so screws don't protrude and snag something)
5) Slide the whole works out of the chassis.
George, how far did you have to disassemble it? How do the above steps compare with your experience?SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605 -
Those blue caps next to the 1 uF are probably the other two output caps. I've seen both types (Yellow Carli and Blue??) used as output caps. Might just be using up parts on hand.
I see your input caps are actually soldered to the board rather than across the tube socket terminals. Makes changing them a tad more labor intensive.
Can you read the value on the blue caps next to the Yellow output caps? I bet they are 1uF also.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Thanks H9. I'll open it back up next week and take a look.SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605 -
George - I just found your directions for dissasembly in post 24 here:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?121405-The-Dared-SL-2000-modification-thread
It looks like it wasn't necessary to remove the side panels or wires from the choke. Are the remaining wires long enough that the board slides out the front of the chassis?SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605 -
nope--IIRC after removing the front and loosing the rear,,and the volume knob,limited acess to the board is gained and you can remove and replace the caps.let me look at my previous post/thread to see if I remember anything more.I can say that after doing it once,,the second time is much easier,lol.It's not that bad,,just takr your time.What kind of caps are you going to use?Reason I ask,,I have 4 spare Obligatto's (1uF)JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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George - I appreciate the offer but I'm leaning toward auricaps for both input and output caps. Thanks for the encouragement. Santa is bringing me a new work bench and this will be a good project to break it in.SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605 -
You will need to figure out the real estate situation carefully for the Auricaps at the input. You'll need to figure out space for 4 pieces and they are larger than what's in there. I'm sure you already know that. Please document and post in case I ever get around to doing it.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
H9 - It looks like the Auricaps are slightly smaller than the Obbligato's that George used so I'm going to attempt to copy his tricks. It may be a little while before I have time to tackle this but I will document and post.
StewSDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans
RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605