Polk Monitor 7B Speakers binding post tightening nuts missing

Pianist19
Pianist19 Posts: 28
edited January 2012 in Vintage Speakers
I just acquired a pair yesterday and they seem to be fine except that one speaker is missing both the red and black binding post tightening hand nut. One speaker also missing the fuse. Could anyone tell me where I can get these parts as I called the Polk Co. before and they said they do not sell these binding post parts anymore. I removed the plate and it looks like it is complicated to completely change the binding posts as the crossover components are behind it. Otherwise I would have done so. Also the correct fuse type is also appreciated. Any help appreciated.
Post edited by Pianist19 on
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited December 2011
    Welcome to CP!:cheesygrin:

    Sorry, I'm not much help on this one.:redface: There are many knowledgeable folks here who will chime in.:wink:

    Those are awesome speakers, though! Really awesome!:biggrin:


    Have you ever owned Polk Monitors before?

    Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.


    Cheers,

    Ben
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited December 2011
    The fuse is a fast-blow 1 amp type ( I'm pretty sure). the binding "nuts" can be substituted with garden variety metric fasteners that are obtainable at any hardware store that has the big bank of drawers containing loose fasteners. Posting an ad in the wanted section might get you some original ones, or try ebay. If you use cables with banana plugs, there is no need for any nuts on the terminals at all. Have fun and good luck ! Welcome to Club Polk
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited December 2011
    1A 250V fuse.

    The binders are easy to change but if you want a pair of stock ones, I'll mail you a set for FREE. I'm guessing that just the plastic is gone per your description? Or is the whole post gone? Either way, it's not a hard fix and if you need to replace it completely, you'll just need a soldering iron.

    For total replacement and very nice upgrade, www.vampirewire.com, BP/HEX - $40/pair(2) shipped.

    Email or PM for shipping information, which is linked by my name.

    Regards,
    Mark
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited December 2011
    dorokusai wrote: »
    The binders are easy to change but if you want a pair of stock ones, I'll mail you a set for FREE.

    Nice one, Doro!:biggrin:
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,081
    edited December 2011
    Good job Mark.

    Welcome to the forum Pianist19! Nice speakers and I just got a pair myself that I am working on and upgrading.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Pianist19
    Pianist19 Posts: 28
    edited December 2011
    I rigged up something of a sleeve to fit over the troubled post and can now make a good connection. However, I am getting nothing out of the tweeter in that speaker. I took the tweeter out and did the 1.5 v. battery test and did get static out of the tweeter so I am assuming it is ok(please correct me if I am wrong). I cleaned the connections for the tweeter and made sure the wires are going to the crossover(removed the woofer and all appears ok from what I can see). I checked the tweeters for sound when I auditioned them the other night before purchase. Both tweeters were working. Now I have no sound out of one tweeter. Is there something else that could have loosened up in transport or is the tweeter still possibly dead? Any help appreciated.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited December 2011
    The fuse is a tweeter protection fuse, no fuse no tweeter. Try swapping the fuse from the other working speaker.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Pianist19
    Pianist19 Posts: 28
    edited December 2011
    I Just tried swapping the fuses. Still no tweeter. Also just put in new fuses in both speakers. No tweeter from same speaker. I did notice that the tweeter fuse holder is loose . Is there something I should check with that?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited December 2011
    That could be a problem. Try removing the four screws that hold the speaker's input cup onto the back of the cabinet. Then pull out the complete cup and see if it looks like a wire is not connected to the fuse holder.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Pianist19
    Pianist19 Posts: 28
    edited December 2011
    I decided to change the questionable binding post after all. Tweeter now working. Many thanks to those that offered help. These are great speakers and its now time to sit back and listen.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited December 2011
    Very good, I'm glad you were able to get it working!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Pianist19
    Pianist19 Posts: 28
    edited January 2012
    Unfortunately I am still having trouble with the tweeter output on the speaker that was giving me trouble. It now seems that if I jiggle the tweeter fuse holder, I sometimes get correct output on the tweeter. Its housing is loose. Usually I get nothing from the tweeter until I do this. The fuse holder is tight on the speaker which has normal high frequency output. Is there a way of tightening the back of the fuse holder to make a better contact or should I try spraying contact cleaner on it? Also is it possible it is not making a ground? Could someone instruct me what to do? These are wonderful speakers when working correctly and I would like to straighten out this problem once and for all. These 7B's are great when I have full tweeter output. Appreciate any help.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2012
    I'm not much on electronics but, it sounds to me like you could pinpoint the problem with a simple, low voltage continuity tester by doing some "A to B" testing. Good luck
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Big Dawg
    Big Dawg Posts: 2,005
    edited January 2012
    What kind of amp are you driving them with, and to what kind of volumes? If you are using a nice amp, and don't push the amp to clip, your simplest solution may be to solder a jumper in to bypass the fuse.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,081
    edited January 2012
    It could be possible you need to clean the fuse holder. Take the fuse out, clean the contacts with something like deoxit, and slightly squeeze together the fuse holder so that when you put the fuse back in it will be a snug fit. If this does not work, remove the crossover and inspect. Enjoy!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter