Choosing a new DAC
Jason_k
Posts: 110
I own Music Streamer II+, it doesn't work anymore. So that got shipped back for repairs or replacement. In between that I bought the new Schitt Bifrost DAC. I do like that DAC but I found it was a little bright. Anything thats bright i tend to always get a headache even with moderate volume levels. So I will be sending the Bifrost back for a refund(They have a fifteen day trial period).
I'am looking at 2 other DAC's there now, I would appricate some opinions on either of these or any others suggestions. The most important thing is that the vocals are not bright.
1. Musical Fidelity M1 DAC
2. Teddy Pardo TeddyDAC
I'll be using the USB input.
Setup
Computer- (DAC) - (Dared SL2000A, NOS mullard tubes on the way) - (Rotel RB-991) - (Polk LSI 15).
Thanks!!
I'am looking at 2 other DAC's there now, I would appricate some opinions on either of these or any others suggestions. The most important thing is that the vocals are not bright.
1. Musical Fidelity M1 DAC
2. Teddy Pardo TeddyDAC
I'll be using the USB input.
Setup
Computer- (DAC) - (Dared SL2000A, NOS mullard tubes on the way) - (Rotel RB-991) - (Polk LSI 15).
Thanks!!
Post edited by Jason_k on
Comments
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I have a MF M1 DAC that i use mainly with my Squeezbox Touch and i love it.
Not familiar with the Teddy.Good LuckMain Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC
Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords
I’M OFFENDED!!!! -
My vote is for the MF M1 DAC, also the Rega Dac has a warm sound.Linn AV5140 fronts
Linn AV5120 Center
Linn AV5140 Rears
M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
Odyssey Mono-Blocs
SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D -
My vote is for the MF M1 DAC, also the Rega Dac has a warm sound.
Both good choices, and I'll toss in a Burson dac if you can find a demo or used one.
PS Audio digital link 3 used is around 5 bones too.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Rega has a nice warm sound to it. Burson and W4S are both very neutral."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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I don't have any experience with the two DAC's you are looking at, but I like tonyb's rec for the ps audio. I have the W4S DAC2 and have compared it head to head to the PS Audio. At 1/3 the price, the PS audio is a steal. It doesn't surrender too much to the W4S. If you are planning on doing computer audio, pair it with something like the Hiface and you are in business.
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Music Hall 25.3 is another warm sounding Dac.Linn AV5140 fronts
Linn AV5120 Center
Linn AV5140 Rears
M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
Odyssey Mono-Blocs
SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D -
lots of choices, kinda interested in the PS Audio digital link 3 Media Dac with there eLyric software. Anyone use this with there Ipad?
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The Cambridge Audio DacMagic should be on your short list."2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up.
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Jolida FX Tube Dac ?Linn AV5140 fronts
Linn AV5120 Center
Linn AV5140 Rears
M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
Odyssey Mono-Blocs
SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D -
If you're going to be using the USB input, I would recommend going the route I did, or at least considering it as an option. Get a good USB/SPDIF converter and then chose the DAC you want. You'll want something with asynchronous USB support to get the best sound, keep in mind that many of the USB DACs on the market (the M1 included I believe) do NOT have asynchronous mode, you definitely want that.
The converter takes the USB output from a computer and outputs it in a digital output, toslink or coaxial. This is all in the digital domain, there's no analog conversion yet, it's just getting it from USB to a 'regular' digital output that you can then use any DAC with.
I went with the Musical Fidelity V-Link, which has asynchronous support and both types of digital output. When I added it in line between my computer and DAC (the Musical Fidelity V-DAC) it made a significant improvement.
Once you get that piece in place, your selection of DACs greatly increases and there are some good older models out there. -
AsSiMiLaTeD wrote: »If you're going to be using the USB input, I would recommend going the route I did, or at least considering it as an option. Get a good USB/SPDIF converter and then chose the DAC you want. You'll want something with asynchronous USB support to get the best sound, keep in mind that many of the USB DACs on the market (the M1 included I believe) do NOT have asynchronous mode, you definitely want that.
The converter takes the USB output from a computer and outputs it in a digital output, toslink or coaxial. This is all in the digital domain, there's no analog conversion yet, it's just getting it from USB to a 'regular' digital output that you can then use any DAC with.
I went with the Musical Fidelity V-Link, which has asynchronous support and both types of digital output. When I added it in line between my computer and DAC (the Musical Fidelity V-DAC) it made a significant improvement.
Once you get that piece in place, your selection of DACs greatly increases and there are some good older models out there.
I have been leaning toward the MF M1 DAC(Have to look into the V-link option). Hard to narrow it down though, nowhere around here to audition any of this gear. So i'll have to order it and hope for the best. Great to have a place like this to get some solid advice.
Thanks -
AsSiMiLaTeD I think I got a little mixed up in your last post. Your using the MF V-Link with the MF V-DAC. Would there be any advantage using the V-Link with MF M1 DAC, instead of just plugging the Comp directly to the M1 DAC via USB.
Another question and I guess is somewhat subjective to ones own hearing. How would you or anyone classify the MF M1 DAC. Bright or Forward is something I'am not looking for. I think Neutral sound may be my thing. Also I hardly have a clue when it comes to this terminolgy. But I know with the Bifrost if i google bright and forward it fits the description, not nagging on the DAC. To each his own -
Jason, have you tried different cables on the dac ? Consider it before you sell the Bifrost down the river.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Jason, you want asynchronous usb support. This is very important and is often overlooked. You'll need to check the specs on that M1 DAC, but I don't believe it's asynchronous. So yes, the V-LINK would go in between the computer and the M1 and would make a marked improvement in sound.
I paid $169 for my V-LINK, at $99 in the link Sal posted it's a no brainer, I would grab one quick at that price.
The V-DAC (which I believe is similar to the M1 though again I'm not sure) has the typical MF sound to it, very neutral. -
Jason, have you tried different cables on the dac ? Consider it before you sell the Bifrost down the river.
I use all "Signal Cable" Except for the USB cable. Don't really have anything else to swap it with. -
Thanks for all the advice. After reading about different gear I decide to spend a little more money and get the W4S DAC-2, Probably be the only thing under the tree this year.
Plan on using the USB port so should I still get a good USB/SPDIF converter to go between the DAC and the Comp, or is there not much point with this unit?
Cheers
