Which caps to choose for upgrading an amp?

dpowell
dpowell Posts: 3,068
edited November 2011 in 2 Channel Audio
Thinking seriously about upgrading the caps in my Anthem Amp 1. Which caps are most important to replace and which caps do you recommend? I believe my Anthem uses 1000uF caps on the power stage but would need to look at the schematics for the others.
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polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited November 2011
    If you can post the schematic that would help a lot. No need to use an expensive cap in a non-critical area that isn't in the signal path ect. I really like Auricaps if it's in the signal path and Panasonic FC's for power supply caps.

    Without a schematic it's hard to recommend anything.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited November 2011
    heiney9 wrote: »
    If you can post the schematic that would help a lot. No need to use an expensive cap in a non-critical area that isn't in the signal path ect. I really like Auricaps if it's in the signal path and Panasonic FC's for power supply caps.

    Without a schematic it's hard to recommend anything.

    H9

    Great suggestions.

    I've had several vintage components upgraded with Audience Auricaps in the signal path and the sonic presentation became less colored which for me was a nice improvement.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited November 2011
    While it has been my experience that upgrading caps in the audio signal path do make a difference, improving the power supply can also make subtle changes to the sound. It depends on how the power supply was designed and the components used. You may or may not hear a difference. YMMV.
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited November 2011
    Serendipity wrote: »
    While it has been my experience that upgrading caps in the audio signal path do make a difference, improving the power supply can also make subtle changes to the sound. It depends on how the power supply was designed and the components used. You may or may not hear a difference. YMMV.

    Absolutely. Power should be upgraded hand in hand with audio path upgrades, especially in older equipment.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited November 2011
    I used jenzen pio's in the signal path in mine.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited November 2011
    Adding a little capacitance to the filter caps can be a nice upgrade. I've used Ruby electrolytic caps before for smaller values in the power supply and Jantzen Superior for signal path.

    The biggest thing to keep in mind when replacing/upgrading non-signal path caps is get ones that are rated for high temp as they should have a better life span.
    Jake
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  • dpowell
    dpowell Posts: 3,068
    edited November 2011
    Thanks all. Here's the schematic. Looking forward to your ideas. Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
    ____________________________________________________________

    polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited November 2011
    dpowell wrote: »
    Here's the schematic.
    Cool,I'm sure once H9 gets a moment to descipher it he will have some definative recommendations.
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  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited November 2011
    I believe c17-20 10uf caps are the ones I was using Mundorfs
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited November 2011
    the .47uF's will yield some magic
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • dpowell
    dpowell Posts: 3,068
    edited November 2011
    One other question. Where is a good place to buy them?
    ____________________________________________________________

    polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited November 2011
    here,,I'll look for the other site too--these caps go behind/between the output tubes IIRC

    http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/jensen/jensen-pio.htm
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • dpowell
    dpowell Posts: 3,068
    edited November 2011
    bump
    ____________________________________________________________

    polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited November 2011
    Parts Express, Madisound, Parts Connexion, and Sonic Craft have all treated me well.
    Jake
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  • CoolJazz
    CoolJazz Posts: 570
    edited November 2011
    Since nobody else threw out comments on which parts, I'll give my comments FWIW. These are just my thoughts on the order in which I'd look, YMMV.

    You say upgrade, but depending on age and how hot it runs and signs of heat, then general servicing would be all electrolytic's regardless of circuit location, but especially if close to heat sources.

    But for audio quality, my personal opinion would be...
    Coupling caps - C11-C13.
    1st stage Cathode caps - C7 & C8. (often overlooked for how important they are!)
    2nd stage grid caps - C1 & C6.
    Stay out of the feedback loop caps going from the 8 ohm output tap going back to the input.

    In the PS...less to be had in the driver supplies as they're regulated. But otherwise...
    Driver B+ output caps C19 & C20.
    Bias supply C15 & C16.
    Then the main B+ C9 & C10.

    The P-P output and driver stage is less demanding on clean rail voltage than the input stage.
    Might be real good bang for the buck changing to better diodes for the main rectifiers - D1 - D5.
    While you're in there, make sure the bleeder resistors are good right off the bat, the R24 and R34.

    That's what I see....

    CJ
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."

    More amazing Internet Science Pink Panther wisdom..."My DAC has since been upgraded from Mark Levinson to Topping."
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  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited November 2011
    I've found that high temp electrolytic caps do last longer in power supply applications. Well worth it, IMO.
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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  • lanchile
    lanchile Posts: 560
    edited November 2011
    if is on the power supply, use 105c temperature. Nichicon and panasonic fc are very good. also if you want to go higher, just get some Mundorf caps audio grade they have 125c. I am using them now in my diy amps and they are excellent, very low ESR.
    Make it simple...Make it better!
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited November 2011
    Dependant upon the quality of the stock caps I concur with CJ that the .1uf interstage coupling caps(C11-14) might be ones to look at replacing with premium films. Be sure that any replacements anywhere in the circuit are of the correct voltage rating or higher.The higher supply voltages precludes the use of Panny FC's but there are a number of other series from Panasonic, UCC and Nich that will cover your 450Volt requirement.
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