Need help on fixing a hole

rromeo923
rromeo923 Posts: 1,513
edited November 2011 in Vintage Speakers
IMG00400-20111120-1034 (1).jpg


This is the top of one of my Monitor 10's

Any idea on quick fix. Not so concerned about looks.

Thanks!!
I got static in my head
The reflected sound of everything
Post edited by rromeo923 on
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited November 2011
    anonymouse wrote: »
    is that a crack in the vinyl? or does it go all the way through the ndf?

    Looks like the vinyl is cracked and the MDF has been dented in, but not all the way through.

    If the MDF is not broken all the way through, then the only reason you'd want to fix it is for looks. If it is cracked all the way through, then your main concern is going to be sealing it. Check it out from the inside and see what's up. If the inside is fine, and you don't care about looks, then don't worry about it.:wink:
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • rromeo923
    rromeo923 Posts: 1,513
    edited November 2011
    Looked in the speaker (tons of polyfill) and there is a crack in the MDF. It is not a hole, however there is a crack. The speaker does not pass the push test. I have armacelled the passive and mids.
    I got static in my head
    The reflected sound of everything
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited November 2011
    rromeo923 wrote: »
    Looked in the speaker (tons of polyfill) and there is a crack in the MDF. It is not a hole, however there is a crack. The speaker does not pass the push test. I have armacelled the passive and mids.

    Time to seal the crack!:biggrin:

    I would suggest removing the drivers and passive, removing the polyfil, and putting the cabinet upside down. This give you room to work, as well as make sure that the MW's and passive don't get spilled on, plus whatever you use to seal the crack will seep right into it instead of away from it. Some wood glue might be all you need. Be generous and let it cure for a while before turning it back over. You could use some silicone caulk, or whatever is handy. I think a lot of different seals/fills would work adequately, so whatever you have handy is dandy.:biggrin:
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited November 2011
    Before flipping it upside down, you could try pushing or tapping the depressed area from the inside to try and get the outside to be flush, just be careful not make it worse!
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • rromeo923
    rromeo923 Posts: 1,513
    edited November 2011
    Thanks!
    I got static in my head
    The reflected sound of everything
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,375
    edited November 2011
    Careful with silicone calks. Most can be corrosive to the speaker baskets, and other metals as they out-gas. I believe 3M Silicone II is ok. You might consider epoxy since you what something that dries rigid in this case. Depending on how much damage and how unstable it is, you may want to cut a thin piece of wood to fit over the area and glue it in place (on the inside) securely to prevent it from buzzing.

    Any idea how the damage occurred?

    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,566
    edited November 2011
    You might consider epoxy

    I would.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited November 2011
    Bondo to the outside...... done and done........maybe a little brown sharpie for looks.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • rromeo923
    rromeo923 Posts: 1,513
    edited November 2011
    Bought speakers sight unseen. $60.00 Had hole in top to begin with.

    I was thinking Bondo.
    I got static in my head
    The reflected sound of everything
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited November 2011
    Maybe Fix-A-Flat would work. Try the link in post #1 here . . .

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?126356-In-the-WTF-department
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Phasewolf
    Phasewolf Posts: 514
    edited November 2011
    I would use Jb weld on the inside and if I was going to redo the vinyl on the outside I would pull the vinyl off Bondo it sand it and then apply new vinyl.
    Absolute corruption empowers absolutely.

    Lg 55LW5600 TV
    Onkyo PR-SC 5508
    Legacy Audio Focus SE
    Legacy Audio Silverscreen HD center
    Polk F/X500i Rears
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Sunfire Grand Cinema
    Behringer iNUKE NU6000DSP
    Pair of CraigSUB SS-18.1
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,447
    edited November 2011
    why not try Durhams rock hard wood putty? mix it a little thin and let it seep into the hole from the inside....sand flat when dried...
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter