SRS Blade Blade mod possible?

cstmar01
cstmar01 Posts: 4,424
edited November 2011 in Vintage Speakers
The cable that connects my SRS's together sits very loose and has been causing a few issues. I have noticed a buzzing that seems to happen when it starts coming out a little bit and is very annoying. I've tested other speakers with the same amp and set up and discovered it has to be something with the cable not making contact correctly.

A bit ago I pulled the binding post plates out and tried to tighten the connection but its still loose and the cable does not form a good connection IMO.

Is there a way to mod the blade blade connections so that I can use a regular binding post and just swap the cable out to one that uses spades or something more secure? I'm getting sick of trying to get the cable to sit just right so I can enjoy my music for a night to then come back the next day and have the same issue.
Post edited by cstmar01 on
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,337
    edited November 2011
    Yep!! Adding a set of binding posts would work great, you will have to use both binding posts with the blade blade.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited November 2011
    Hello,
    That complete socket can be replaced by using a Cinch-Jones S-2 twin blade socket. You can usually find those at Mouser's online store. This would allow you to use the same twin-blade cable that you already have and preserve the original design.
    Regards, Ken
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited November 2011
    You can use binding posts, but I would use the parts Ken suggested. If here's room in the binding post cup, or if you don't mind attaching it to the back of the cabinet, a Speakon connector would be superior to both. http://www.neutrikusa.com/fl/en/audio/203_324141/speakON_Lockable_Loudspeaker_Connector_group.aspx
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited November 2011
    I love the feel of Neutrik stuff...!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited November 2011
    Yep, a nice solid no worry connection.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,337
    edited November 2011
    Thats what I am going to use for my external crossovers and all thanks to Mike!!
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • cstmar01
    cstmar01 Posts: 4,424
    edited November 2011
    Thanks for the info! I think I'm going to go with Kens idea first and keep it close to.original as possible. I do want to change out the stock binding post in the future and might do something different with the connection then.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter