capacitor buss bar

sntnsupermen131

as you can probably tell with all these questions...im finishing off installing everything
this should be the last question
i have 2 1.0 farad capacitors
they are linked by a lightning audio buss bar
to give you a better description
2 bars
each have 2 holes
one bar goes from positive to positive on both caps and screws down with the allen screws that came with the cap
other bar does the same with the negative
i have 1 1/0awg wire running to the caps from the battery
then, i have one 4 awg wire running from the caps to the amps
the problem is 1/0 awg crimp ring+ 4 awg crimp ring+ buss bar=too long for the allen screw that came with the cap to screw into the cap
heres the question:
im pretty sure this an easy question and im just overthinking it
i can hook up the 1/0awg to the positive on one, and hook up the 4awg to the positive on the other cap correct?
and then hook up 4awg from the negative terminal and hook up the other end to a grounding point?
thats all...
i can forsee no problem with this...but i guess since ive had to spend so much money again after the other amp blew...i dont want to mess things up
-Cody

Jstas

What is the smaller guage for? Are they the runs to the amps? If so, why not just get a distribution block, run a single short 0/1 guage wire to the distro block from the cap and then jump your 4 guage and the other 0/1 guage off of the distro block? It doesn't have to be fused either but an extra level of protection never hurt nobody.

sntnsupermen131

this is my setup:
1 1/0awg wire running from the battery to a unfused distroblock
the distro block divided into one 1/0awg wire and 1 4awg wire
the 4awg runs to another fused distro and then it goes to the amp for my fronts(soon i will have another amp for my rears...and so i will have another 8awg running off the fused distro
referring to the first unfused distroblock:
the 1/0awg that comes out of the distroblock goes directly to the capacitor, from the capacitor, the 4awg goes to a fused distro block which seperates into 2 4awg wires going to my 2 amps for my subs
its hard to understand if you cant see it, and i would take a picture...but my digital camera is nowhere to be found...
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

... it all sound quite involved, and quite nice actually - the only bug i've got about it is the "4 gauge from caps to fused distro - then two 4 gauge outs from there, one to each sub amp".

why didn't you want to do zero from cap to distro, then split off into two 4's... (i'd say 2 gauge, but who's gonna buy one foot of 2 gauge when they have a shitload of 0 gauge laying around - as i imagine you do after runnin the 0 gauge lines).

that's my only confusion.

and for my caps i had to use the long screws. lightning caps came with two screws -- one long, one short - as i imagine most other cap mfgs prolly come with the same kinda setup.

i used the long screws for putting up to 4 zero gauge terminals on one stud.

what made it all work better thought was the tops of the streetwires cap i've still got -- they screw into a cap like a normal short cap screw, but instead of a screwdriver or allen head on top they have a 1 1/2 inch long screw down post with a nut.

i can fit about 7 or 8 zero gauge terminals per stud if i wanted to.

i think monster cable sells those post heads separately.

however, in your situation, what i would actually do is go to the hardware store and take your screw from your cap with you.

find a nut that goes onto that screw... then find a stainless steel screw in the store that'll fit that nut, and be as long as you need it to be. get the idea?

sntnsupermen131

the reason i have 4awg running to the block, is b/c 4awg is the biggest it accepts
i couldve sworn it said 1/0, but i guess not
i think it was more of a 4awg input, 2 8awg outputs
but there was no way i couldve put 1/0awg in there...
i thought about getting a 1/0 to 4awg adapter...and i still might do it...but i dont know
ill be happy right now if it was working at all....
im just going to go to true value and pick up a bolt
-Cody