Power vs. Speaker Type
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I blew some $ and bought myself a new amp. I am considering purchasing either the RTi A7 or the A9. I have a NAD C 275BEE which is an extremely clean 150w x 2 (actually extremely underrated). Is this enough power to run an A9 efficiently, or is it perfect for the A7? I know the A9 needs power for one to experience it's potential. Any advice/recommendation is extremely appreciated. The rest of my system is in my signature. Thanks!
Post edited by KYFHO on
Comments
-
Either the RTi A9 or RTi A7 will benifit from you NAD amp. I would get the RTi A7's in this case because you would have at least half of the 300 watt peak power rating of these speakers. There wouldn't really be any worry of underpowering you speakers in this case. NAD amps are nice, therefore you should enjoy your new RTi A purchase with NAD powering them.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
I have Rti12s (same as A9s) and putting 100W to 3 woofers and another 100W to mids/tweeter from a 5channel HK Signature 2.1 amp with 100 amps current. I still couldn't get much bass out of it even when run at full range, but it sounds realllllly good, the brightness is all gone. I added a Deftech Supercube 1 to add bass for 60hz-
your amp should be Ok, but you definitely need a sub. A7 would give you better overall sound, if you don't have a sub. -
I have the NAD c375bee (integrated amp version of the 275). I absolutely love it with my LSi9s. That being said, I have RTi A7s and a NAD M25 amp for the HT and it's rated for 160wpc - ie. very close to the 375.
Remember that the c275 will provide dynamic power of 250wpc and 50amps peak current, so the A7s and I think even the A9s should be fine. I don't think you'd need a sub w/ the A7s ....and I don't really think you'd need one for the A9s either. Remember it's the high current that is important - much more so than the wattage rating.ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place
Home Theater:
KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch
2 Channel:
Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs -
I run a 200 watt Adcom and keep my powered sub turned off while running the RTi A9's most of the time. They shake the room and still stay clean.
I only turn my power sub on when I'm showing other people movies, I who loves bass don't require the sub while running the RTi A9's and A7's full range. I use it because of the .1 encoded channel. There is information going to the sub which only it receives.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
Agreed - I guess I'm referring to 2ch music listening. For 5.1 content, I use the sub as well.ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place
Home Theater:
KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch
2 Channel:
Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs -
I also run the RTi A9's in the DIRECT setting which keeps my EQ. I use this for music with the Adcom powering. I never use the powered sub during 2 channel music.
I really think the RTi A9's will get the job done if powered right. The same goes for the RTi A7's.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
Thanks for the replies, lots of useful information - much appreciated!
-
I have Rti12s (same as A9s) and putting 100W to 3 woofers and another 100W to mids/tweeter from a 5channel HK Signature 2.1 amp with 100 amps current.
100 amps, really? At 150 wpc at 4 ohms, it doesn't even double down indicating that the power supply isn't that beefy.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
100 amps, really? At 150 wpc at 4 ohms, it doesn't even double down indicating that the power supply isn't that beefy.
not sure, that that is what the spec says. and I think we all know that HK amps are high current. maybe the WPC is underrated? -
100 amps of current and only 150 watts ?? Somethin' ain't right. A MF tri-vista has what, 75 amps of current. Post those specs man, I smell a fish.
Incidently, if anyone uses the phrase "dynamic power" when referring to power specs, expect to get slapped upside the head.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Post those specs man, I smell a fish..
spec's here: http://www.harmankardon.com/resources/Brands/harmankardon/Products/ProductRelatedDocuments/en-US/OwnersManual/SIGNATURE%202-1%20om.pdf"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
100 amps of current and only 150 watts ?? Somethin' ain't right. A MF tri-vista has what, 75 amps of current. Post those specs man, I smell a fish.
Yeah, something isn't right. The MF Titan, one of the world's most powerful audiophile amps, is rated at 1000 wpc @ 8 ohms doubling down to 2 ohms and with a separate power supply weighing 165 lbs. alone is listed at 100 amps peak to peak.
I did note that HK lists 25dB of negative feedback, which is quite a lot. I believe 5dB is about the norm in high end amps with at least one company, BAT, utilizing zero negative feedback in their amps.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
EndersShadow wrote: »
see, I wasn't lying
the max power draw from the outlet for this thing is around 1kW, given it's an A/B amp, I think 100WPC sounds about right with 8ohms, 150W for 4ohms .
by the way, I was looking into a HK Signature 1.5 to get 200WPC and it has an even bigger 130 amps. I lost the bid on ebay because it went over $500