My new (to me) SDS-SRA's <Pics inside>
DPDISXR4Ti
Posts: 7
I just got these speakers today, complete with stands - I wasn't really looking, but the price was right!
I tested them individually, and they seem to work, but on one of them the tweeter wire is broken as you may be able to see. Indeed, there's nothing happening from that tweeter. Is this something that can be fixed or do you just replace the entire tweeter assembly? If the later, suggestions on a source and how do I identify the exact tweeter I need (assuming there are different ones).
Also, what's the Ohm rating on these speakers? My receiver has a 4/8 Ohm toggle switch.
From the pics, can anyone tell me what the age of these are?
I tested them individually, and they seem to work, but on one of them the tweeter wire is broken as you may be able to see. Indeed, there's nothing happening from that tweeter. Is this something that can be fixed or do you just replace the entire tweeter assembly? If the later, suggestions on a source and how do I identify the exact tweeter I need (assuming there are different ones).
Also, what's the Ohm rating on these speakers? My receiver has a 4/8 Ohm toggle switch.
From the pics, can anyone tell me what the age of these are?
Brad
Post edited by DPDISXR4Ti on
Comments
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You have a pair of SDA CRS+ with the pin/blade cable circa 1989. They are 6 ohm nominal, so since you are using an AVR, set it to the 8 ohm setting. However, be advised that an AVR will not do the speakers justice.
Did you get the interconnect cable that runs between the speakers? How about the owner's manual because SDA's are not set up like most other speakers.
You will need to replace that tweeter. Polk sells a vastly improved version called the RD0194-1. You should replace both tweeters.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
F1's info is great and I would suggest the same, the Tweeter replacement is a good idea.
What part of NY are you in?
Welcome to the Club! -
Thanks for the feedback. Some responses....
- I did not get the interconnect cable and I do realize it is required for proper operation (even if I don't yet really understand the technical details behind that). I've read that I can get one from Polk for $40, but is there really any "magic" to their cable? It seems like I could build one myself using some male spade and bullet connectors crimped and soldered to some speaker wire, all of which I already have downstairs.
- What type of amplifier/receiver do I need to optimize these things, and how much am I falling short of their potential with a "conventional" AVR? I now own three different receivers (a Harmon-Kardon HK880VXI came along with the speakers), so I'm not too interested in buying a fourth one!
- No manual included with these - so far my "setup knowledge" has been the diagram on the back of the speakers.
- I'm either in downstate or upstate NY depending on your perspective. Rockland County area.Brad -
You can get the blade/blade SDA cable, but Polk no longer has the pin/blade (the one you need). As you stated, you can make your own though. If you use good quality cable, you will have an improvement in sound over the stock cable anyway and is well worth it.
Greg
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
You can get the blade/blade SDA cable, but Polk no longer has the pin/blade (the one you need). As you stated, you can make your own though. If you use good quality cable, you will have an improvement in sound over the stock cable anyway and is well worth it.
Thanks for the confirmation - is it speaker cable I should be using to fabricate the interconnect cable?
Relative to the tweeter replacement, if I just want to do this on a budget and replace the one that is dead, is there a part/model# I should be looking for, or do I just need to find another that is a Silver Coil Dome tweeter?Brad -
DPDISXR4Ti wrote: »Thanks for the confirmation - is it speaker cable I should be using to fabricate the interconnect cable?
Relative to the tweeter replacement, if I just want to do this on a budget and replace the one that is dead, is there a part/model# I should be looking for, or do I just need to find another that is a Silver Coil Dome tweeter?
Yes, an sl2000. They're only available used. They come up on the flea market here fairly often. -
Yes, I would use some above average quality speaker cable to make the SDA cable as well as some good quality connectors. I used some 10 guage wire to make mine.
As Big Dog said, the SL2000 tweeter. They are not too hard to find, but IMO do not sound very good. They are very harsh and the RDO-194 or RDO-198 (if you do the TL mod) are much better with the high frequencies.
Greg
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
RDO-194
This seems like the best choice for a plug-n-play swap if sticking with a Polk-sourced speaker. Any thoughts on any of the SL-5xxx tweeters sold on eBay by "Electro Mavin" for $40/pair? It doesn't look like any of the ones currently listed would be plug-n-play though, as they're all designed for a round opening.Brad -
DPDISXR4Ti wrote: »This seems like the best choice for a plug-n-play swap if sticking with a Polk-sourced speaker. Any thoughts on any of the SL-5xxx tweeters sold on eBay by "Electro Mavin" for $40/pair? It doesn't look like any of the ones currently listed would be plug-n-play though, as they're all designed for a round opening.
Those are very nice speakers. You should use either one sl2000 if you want to get them up and running cheaply, two RDO194 if you replace them both for nice sound, or two RDO198 if you replace both AND upgrade the crossover with the "4.1TL" modification. Please don't try to use any other tweeter; if you must, then sell them to me and I'll give you a nice pair of speakers in exchange. -
DPDISXR4Ti wrote: »This seems like the best choice for a plug-n-play swap if sticking with a Polk-sourced speaker. Any thoughts on any of the SL-5xxx tweeters sold on eBay by "Electro Mavin" for $40/pair? It doesn't look like any of the ones currently listed would be plug-n-play though, as they're all designed for a round opening.
Nope, the SL-5xxx tweeters won't work for any of the SDA line of speakers. I would recommend modifying the crossovers with new capacitors and adding the RDO-198's (as suggested). This will give you the best sound. The RDO-194-1 would be the "plug and play" tweeter though. Definately better than the SL-2000 tweeters. You will not believe the difference in the high end after replacing the SL-2000's. It's that big of a difference and that good. If you do the crossovers with new caps, add RDO-198's and make an SDA cable you will be very happy with the results. If you plan on keeping these speakers, that's the route to go (IMO).
Greg
Greg
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
At this point I'm leaning toward getting a pair of RDO-194-1's. I looked quickly and didn't find them on Polk's site - can someone point me in the right direction?Brad
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However, be advised that an AVR will not do the speakers justice.
Still a little concerned regarding this statement before I invest any dollars in fixing these. Can you (or anyone) elaborate a bit?Brad -
DPDISXR4Ti wrote: »At this point I'm leaning toward getting a pair of RDO-194-1's. I looked quickly and didn't find them on Polk's site - can someone point me in the right direction?
Welcome to Club Polk.
You need to call Polk Customer Service using the number at the top right of this forum page. I believe they are still $48 each deliverd in the US when you let them know they are a Club Polk member. The RDO194-1 is a lot of tweeter for the money and you will recoup it upon resale.
The comment about your AVR relates to the fact most AVR's have a smaller power supply that won't make the CSR's shine as brightly as when powered by a high current design amplifier. All SDA's love lots of clean power (but don't confuse volume with power). A lower power amp can make lots of volume, but it's full of distortion than can and will destroy tweeters at high listening levels.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
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TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
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NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »The comment about your AVR relates to the fact most AVR's have a smaller power supply that won't make the CSR's shine as brightly as when powered by a high current design amplifier. All SDA's love lots of clean power (but don't confuse volume with power). A lower power amp can make lots of volume, but it's full of distortion than can and will destroy tweeters at high listening levels.
Thanks for the education. I realize the above applies to most any speaker, but apparently a bit more with the CSR's. I don't have any real low-power amps, so I imagine from a practical standpoint I'd be fine.
One additional concern... On one of the speakers, both of the ~6" speakers have a dimpled center-dome. I've read of people pulling the "dent" out with some tape - wondering if I should try that or best to just leave alone.Brad -
As far as the dented dustcaps are concerned it is merely cosmetic and only needs to be pulled out if you feel it necessary.