Any good Al or Titanium Tweeters?

saemark30
saemark30 Posts: 146
edited November 2011 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I want replace the SL-2000. Is there a good Al or Titanium that isn't shrill sounding?
Post edited by saemark30 on

Comments

  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited November 2011
    Theres several ,one such example being the SEAS H 1212 http://www.seas.no/images/stories/prestige/pdfdatasheet/h1212_27tbfc_g_datasheet.pdf

    However it nor any others are likely to be drop in replacements. A complete reworking of the crossover is likely required due to diferences in frequency response ,impedance,and sensistivity etc.
  • saemark30
    saemark30 Posts: 146
    edited November 2011
    The Seas could work, any from Focal you recommend?
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited November 2011
    Dude, why don't you just get the Polk replacement? You will need to spend more in the long run to get the crossover right.

    The RD0194 is a drop in replacement meant for your speakers.

    If your in a hurry you are gonna regret it later. Save a few more bucks and get the right ones.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited November 2011
    Do you know how to redesign a crossover?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • saemark30
    saemark30 Posts: 146
    edited November 2011
    Well all the new speakers use metallic dome tweeters so I want to try that, the soft dome tweeters may be a little less detailed and dynamic.
    But a good point,I may get the RD0-194, and use the metallic for another project.
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited November 2011
    I'd go with the RDOs as well. Not ALL new speakers use metal tweeters. Polk's own LSI-Ms, many Dynaudio, some Dali, Steve's Fritz-C do not, and many others if you do a search. Treated fabric tweeters are very much alive and well.

    Having said that, I am a fan of the alum/mag Focal inverted dome--sounds nice to me. But I also like the Polk Vifa.

    Since you're up in Canada, why not check out some Canadian speaker makers who use metal domes: Energy, Paradigm, and so on. I have a set of Energy RC-10s whose alum. dome I like...I'd consider something like that, perhaps (of course, I mean for a future project, not for an SL2000 replacement)?
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2011
    Don't try and reinvent the Polk wheel. Either try the drop in replacement or buy another loudspeaker.

    If you want some very good Al domes and get a benchmark for the sound, try Paradigm, KEF, Monitor Audio or NHT. That's all the modern Al dome you need to hear in order to get a pretty tight idea of the sonics os that material.

    Guys, it's RD-0194 or RD-0198. NOT the letter OOOOOOHHHHHH....its a ZERO. Zero zero zero.... :twisted:
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited November 2011
    Got it. RD-0194... interesting how it got to be RD0-194 and even RDO-194 here at Polk Forums central, no less. You can probably do a 'search' with RD0/O and get threads on this site.

    But this makes sense when you consider other Polk Vintage reference numbers for drivers and their
    replacements.

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2011
    cnh wrote: »
    Got it. RD-0194... interesting how it got to be RD0-194 and even RDO-194 here at Polk Forums central, no less. You can probably do a 'search' with RD0/O and get threads on this site.

    But this makes sense when you consider other Polk Vintage reference numbers for drivers and there replacements.

    cnh

    Mainly because one person posted it that way and it self evolved. It's not a big deal as we all, for the most part, know exactly what is being talked about u know? I just don't want it to become the usual nomenclature since new folks have to call and ask for help if they aren't used to the tightly wound madness that we have around here.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • saemark30
    saemark30 Posts: 146
    edited November 2011
    Some like the RD-0194, some don't. Looking for a unwanted pair.
  • saemark30
    saemark30 Posts: 146
    edited November 2011
    Considering pairing the Neo 3/PDR tweeter with a Polk 6.5" woofer. Dome tweeters are very good but would this be a move up?
    Lower distortion?
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited November 2011
    I think you're missing the point of some of the posts above...that is, even if you 'design' a new speaker using different drivers, you still have to engineer a decent crossover and deal with cabinet volumes, resonances and so on. So it's not as simple as asking if one driver is better than another.

    After all, some of the world's most expensive speakers use beryllium domes? Yet others swear by Electrostatic ribbons, some love horns, and so on! It's not an either or proposition.

    I'd say, since this is a DIY project...do with it what you want and let 'your' ears decide.

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,213
    edited November 2011
    I always thought it was

    RD0194-1 and RD0198-1. I wish I could find my invoice from when I bought a pair. IIRC that's how they were listed on the invoice.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,213
    edited November 2011
    saemark30 wrote: »
    Some like the RD-0194, some don't. Looking for a unwanted pair.

    Very few credible people on this board dislike the 194. If you don't like them you can flip them for almost no loss. And to beat another dead horse, ber sure to allow about 100-150 hours break in before you pass judgment. They will sound ok when you first put them in and then they will sound poor for a while and when they hit about 100+ hour mark you will start to hear their true character.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2011
    heiney9 wrote: »
    I always thought it was

    RD0194-1 and RD0198-1. I wish I could find my invoice from when I bought a pair. IIRC that's how they were listed on the invoice.

    H9

    That's what I have on my invoices as well and I know the ordering system pretty well H9. Any combination will get you the tweeter you are looking for so it's really just a pet peeve. My point is to get it in members' heads that the letters are seperate....as in there is no OH in RD0194. If you want to seriously break it down phonetically as well, I'll make a YouTube video and hire a naked sign language interpreter so all bases are covered.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited November 2011
    Do you know how to rework a crossover?
    saemark30 wrote: »
    Considering pairing the Neo 3/PDR tweeter with a Polk 6.5" woofer. Dome tweeters are very good but would this be a move up?
    Lower distortion?
    Those could not be crossed in the same fashion, they require a higher crossover point and steeper slope.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • iskandam
    iskandam Posts: 704
    edited November 2011
    saemark30 wrote: »
    Considering pairing the Neo 3/PDR tweeter with a Polk 6.5" woofer. Dome tweeters are very good but would this be a move up?
    Lower distortion?
    I used to have speakers with the Neo 3/PDR planar magnetic tweeter and to my ears they sound more natural, extended, faster, and cleaner than the Vifa XT25 used in the LSi's. I prefer it to soft domes and think it's a good step or two up. But as others have mentioned here, it's quite an involved process with the crossover design and everything.

    If you want to try the Neo 3 I'd highly recommend building Danny Richie's kits from GR Research. He has several designs ranging from monitors, floorstanders, to open baffles using that tweeter.