Picking up some 2B's tomorrow

gmcman
gmcman Posts: 1,806
edited November 2011 in Vintage Speakers
Finally taking the plunge into the SDA realm. Found a very nice pair about an hour from me and I do plan to TL them.

I was curious if anyone has just changed the tweeter to the 198 prior to performing a full-blown cap change?

Is it possble to add the 5.8uf cap to the existing x-over to make the 198 work?

I don't wan't to half-**** the upgrade but wanted to listen to them stock, then change the tweeter, then perform the full cap change.

Somewhat curious as to the progression.
Post edited by gmcman on

Comments

  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    Congrats!

    You'll have to get in there and pull the crossovers to install the 198's, so most people advise to swap out the rest of the caps and do all of the crossover work while it's out. It's your call, but just to be clear, you must install the 5.8 in parallel with a 2.7ohm resistor to use the 198's.

    I'm still experimenting with my 2B TL's. So far, they're really good.
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited October 2011
    gmcman wrote: »
    Finally taking the plunge into the SDA realm. Found a very nice pair about an hour from me and I do plan to TL them.

    I was curious if anyone has just changed the tweeter to the 198 prior to performing a full-blown cap change?

    Is it possble to add the 5.8uf cap to the existing x-over to make the 198 work?

    I don't wan't to half-**** the upgrade but wanted to listen to them stock, then change the tweeter, then perform the full cap change.

    Somewhat curious as to the progression.

    Replacing the stock 2.7 ohm sand resistor closest to the + speaker binding post with a 12 watt Mills (or better quality resistor) and bypassing it with a 5.8uf Sonicap (or better quality cap) would allow you to install RDO198-1's without touching the 12, 20 and 40 uF caps and second 2.7 ohm resistor on each board until later.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    Pin/Blade?? Single Crossover board??

    Congrats!!
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    edited October 2011
    Pin/Blade?? Single Crossover board??

    Congrats!!

    Pin/Blade

    Won't get a look inside until tomorrow.

    Need to fabricate SDA cable.

    Thanks!
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited October 2011
    Pin/Blade?? Single Crossover board??

    Congrats!!
    The SDA 2B crossover is the Polk designated single board "BE1807-B" no matter what. The only difference is the female SDA interconnect connection plug.

    On the Blade/Blade socket, the wide blade is not internally wired to anything and the narrow blade is what runs to other cabinet.

    On the Pin/Blade socket, the blade (wide) is connected to ground and pin replaces the narrow blade and runs to the other cabinet. This simple upgrade was made by Polk to allow direct plug-in of the AI-1 to allow for the use of a non-common ground amplifier.

    However, the wide blade of Blade/Blade can be easily grounded, and narrow blade adapted to connect to the AI-1 for use with non-common ground amps.

    2B's RULE !!
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • Starbuck1851
    Starbuck1851 Posts: 19
    edited October 2011
    gmcman wrote: »
    I don't wan't to half-**** the upgrade but wanted to listen to them stock, then change the tweeter, then perform the full cap change.

    Somewhat curious as to the progression.

    Not sure what you mean by 'half-****'-ing but you may want to try switching the stock tweets out for the 194's and try them that way first (you could easily re-sell these at some point if you decided to later invest in the TL mod) I have a set of 2B's (studio model) and found this upgrade to be more than satisfactory (really smoothing out the silver coil's rough spot) and leaving the stock x-overs intact. These speakers also benefit from having a lot of 'headroom' - I'm driving mine with a Cullen Circuits-modified NAD C372 integrated amp (150 continuous wpc into 4/8 ohms w/ a huge high-current toroidal transformer) and they sound awesome, imo.
    Polk Monitor 4
    Polk Monitor 5jr+
    Polk Monitor 5B
    Polk SDA 2B Studio
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited October 2011
    I would recommend recapping the crossovers and adding the 5.8uF cap to the crossover. The original caps have reached the end of their lifespan. Also, having heard the RDO-194 AND the RDO-198 tweeters in the 2B's, the RDO-198 is worth the upgrade without a doubt. I do not recommend leaving the crossovers stock as suggested above for the reason mentioned above and the improvement in the sound you will get is very easily worth the upgrade cost. Many other caps available, but Sonicaps have impressed many people who own the 2B's (myself included). Also, as inspiredsports suggested above, you should use 12W Mills resistors as a replacement to the origianls.

    Greg
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    edited October 2011
    Not sure what you mean by 'half-****'-ing

    Mainly by adding a fresh cap into a well-dated x-over that could benefit from all fresh caps.

    I suppose it's still a TL from a technical standpoint but obvioulsy I would be doing an injustice to the entire package by not replacing all the caps.

    Just brainstorming though, was toying with the idea of comparing notes throughout the entire upgrade.

    I did get them, and they are in amazing condition for their age, practically new-looking
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    The SDA 2B crossover is the Polk designated single board "BE1807-B" no matter what. The only difference is the female SDA interconnect connection plug.

    On the Blade/Blade socket, the wide blade is not internally wired to anything and the narrow blade is what runs to other cabinet.

    On the Pin/Blade socket, the blade (wide) is connected to ground and pin replaces the narrow blade and runs to the other cabinet. This simple upgrade was made by Polk to allow direct plug-in of the AI-1 to allow for the use of a non-common ground amplifier.

    However, the wide blade of Blade/Blade can be easily grounded, and narrow blade adapted to connect to the AI-1 for use with non-common ground amps.

    2B's RULE !!

    There are early 2B's with dual crossover boards with a blade/blade SDA socket as there are early CRS+ dual crossover boards with blade/blade SDA socket..
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    edited November 2011
    So in turn I get to stare at them until the caps arrive Monday.

    I'm going to change the tweeter first along with the 5.8 Sonicap, .5 & 2.7 Mills resistors.

    Listen for awhile then finish swapping the caps. Looks like a trip to the BORG to get some Armaflex and let the 3YO climb on the tractors. :smile:
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    edited November 2011
    Sorry, it didn't happen unless........
    RDO198-1.jpg
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited November 2011
    pics of the speakers??
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    edited November 2011
    Whoops....talk about something not hapening.

    I thought there was a black studio and a solid wood version, didn't know there was a wood veneer version, I assume it's still considered a studio.

    I checked the drivers and it has the 6503's and they read "2B", as does the crosssover.
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited November 2011
    Wow, those look like they were built yesterday!
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    edited November 2011
    Thanks..yeah i'm very impressed with their condition.

    Lighting knocked the WB off slightly, color of cabinet is more brown than red.
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited November 2011
    Per some of he advice above, don't be shy about putting money into these. You get out of them what you put in. Better grade Xover components really wake them up! :cheesygrin:

    I did all the recommended mods I could find on my SDA's, and the results (after burn in) are spectacular. :wink:
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    edited November 2011
    drumminman wrote: »
    Per some of he advice above, don't be shy about putting money into these.

    You are correct in stating that, like others have said, the return is tenfold.

    I was originally toying with the idea of going will all MR caps, thinking the price is worth it since I won't need to touch them for a long, long time.

    However that's some serious coin..cheaper han Dueland's though...:cheesygrin:

    But after much research, the Soinicaps hold their own and are argueably 85% of caps ten times their worth.

    So it will be Sonicaps, just the fact X-mas is approaching and need to get my ducks in a row.

    Here they are with the saturation removed:
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited November 2011
    There are early 2B's with dual crossover boards with a blade/blade SDA socket as there are early CRS+ dual crossover boards with blade/blade SDA socket..

    I've seen 2A's (with 4 MW610's that require the 2 130uf caps) with 2 boards, but not 2B's. I guess Polk must have been using up parts if a 2-board 2B was produced, but there sure wouldn't have been much on that low pass board without the 130's.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • jaygax
    jaygax Posts: 153
    edited November 2011
    299061_10150348215636771_689291770_8667604_209564336_n.jpg


    i have the same speakers i used for my main front. i thought those were SDA 2As.

    i love listening to them eventhough i dont have the interconnect cable. how can i make one or can i order them at polks?

    i am not an electrician and dont know how to upgrade my speakers. i guess i'll just have to find an electrician to do it. how much would it cost for the upgrade? i dont know where to start but i really wanted to experience SDAs quality sound. they said these speakers are much better then the RTiA9. thanks for any suggestions.

    im bidding at ebay for a carver M-1.0t amp to drive them.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited November 2011
    I've seen 2A's (with 4 MW610's that require the 2 130uf caps) with 2 boards, but not 2B's. I guess Polk must have been using up parts if a 2-board 2B was produced, but there sure wouldn't have been much on that low pass board without the 130's.

    Greg you are correct!! It was 2A not 2B.

    Thanks.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited November 2011
    jaygax wrote: »
    299061_10150348215636771_689291770_8667604_209564336_n.jpg


    i have the same speakers i used for my main front. i thought those were SDA 2As.

    i love listening to them eventhough i dont have the interconnect cable. how can i make one or can i order them at polks?

    i am not an electrician and dont know how to upgrade my speakers. i guess i'll just have to find an electrician to do it. how much would it cost for the upgrade? i dont know where to start but i really wanted to experience SDAs quality sound. they said these speakers are much better then the RTiA9. thanks for any suggestions.

    im bidding at ebay for a carver M-1.0t amp to drive them.

    Is it a blade/blade IC cable you need? If so call polk they will have one made for you..
  • jaygax
    jaygax Posts: 153
    edited November 2011
    its a pin/blade IC cable.