SDA Binding Post - Cardas CCGR-S

audiocr381ve
audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
edited October 2011 in Vintage Speakers
The Cardas binding posts came in. I'm replacing the pin/blade socket with the new CCGR's.

I know that the "pin" is what carries the signal, but the "blade" is connected to the negative binding post. Do I solder both the pin cable and the blade cable from the negative binding post to the new CCGR binding post? Just wondering what to do with the blade cable.

Thanks!
Post edited by audiocr381ve on

Comments

  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited October 2011
    What speakers are you modifying?
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    Whoops, I forget some people aren't familiar with me. SDA-2B's pin/blade.

    While I'm at it, are people placing the new binding post for the SDA IC where the previous socket was? If so, this sucker is HARD to get out.
  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited October 2011
    It's riveted in place. Carefully drill it out but don't go all the way through.
    Are you installing a pair of binding posts, one for the pin wire and one for the blade wire?
    That's what I did on my 1.2 TL's in case I wanted to use my AI-1 interconnect for monoblocks.
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    It's riveted in place. Carefully drill it out but don't go all the way through.
    Are you installing a pair of binding posts, one for the pin wire and one for the blade wire?
    That's what I did on my 1.2 TL's in case I wanted to use my AI-1 interconnect for monoblocks.

    You would still only need one binding post to use the AI-1 all you have to do is connect the negitive (blade) to a negitive (black) binding post cause thats what it connects to anyway..
  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited October 2011
    Do I solder both the pin cable and the blade cable from the negative binding post to the new CCGR binding post?
    No. Do not do that.
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited October 2011
    You would still only need one binding post to use the AI-1 all you have to do is connect the negitive (blade) to a negitive (black) binding post cause thats what it connects to anyway..

    Yes and initially I did it that way but I'm using 10 gauge speaker wire and trying to fit both wires onto one binding post...well it didn't seem to fit very well. The spade would not go in far enough because the other wire was in there (bare wire connection tightened down with binding post nut).
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited October 2011
    So to answer the OP's question, it would seem to me that you would just remove the short white wire that goes from the blade to the negative binding post.
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    Ohhh, I have a banana on my speaker cable and a spade on my AI-1 (blade side)
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    So to answer the OP's question, it would seem to me that you would just remove the short white wire that goes from the blade to the negative binding post.

    Okay, so to be clear just completely remove it?

    Larry, did you get my PM? Don't be mad at me homie! :)
  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited October 2011
    Okay, so to be clear just completely remove it?

    Yes.
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    Yes.

    Michael, when you said "drill out" you meant the rivets right?'

    It's still not popping out.
  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited October 2011
    Double check with TFLF (Larry) as he's done this before. He can give you better advice than I.
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited October 2011
    You have to drill out the rivet. It may take a little playing to get it loose but being careful is the key.
  • fbm211
    fbm211 Posts: 1,488
    edited October 2011
    I had a hell of a time getting those out myself.
    I finally got em loose enough to grind them out with a dremmel.(rivets)
    SDA-2BTL with custom IC
    Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
    Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
    Harman Kardon T-55c TT
    DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
    4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
    DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
    Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    It was definitely a PITA, but they're out. I also had the hardest time soldering the cable to the Cardas binding post. It was unbelievably frustrating.

    The new binding post is literally being held in place by hot glue. I know this is kind of ghetto, but I'm wondering if you guys did the same thing. The little black plastic circle fit pretty snug in the hole left by the pin/blade socket. Enough to hold it in place while I hot glued it. Did you guys do the same?
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited October 2011
    Just wondering something. Now that you've done spikes, rings, inductors, binding posts, crossover mods (and broke them in), tweeters, and a custom interconnect, do you still think the people who told you to do spikes, rings, inductors, binding posts, crossover mods, tweeters, and a custom interconnect are jackasses? That's what you were calling us a couple of months ago when we trying to tell you what to do about the thin bass you were complaining of. Just wondering. Actually, what I'm really wondering is why anyone here actually helps you. But then I'm just a jackass.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • fbm211
    fbm211 Posts: 1,488
    edited October 2011
    I used washers to get them in tight.And then used a lot of hot glue.
    SDA-2BTL with custom IC
    Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
    Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
    Harman Kardon T-55c TT
    DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
    4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
    DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
    Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    nspindel wrote: »
    Just wondering something. Now that you've done spikes, rings, inductors, binding posts, crossover mods (and broke them in), tweeters, and a custom interconnect, do you still think the people who told you to do spikes, rings, inductors, binding posts, crossover mods, tweeters, and a custom interconnect are jackasses? That's what you were calling us a couple of months ago when we trying to tell you what to do about the thin bass you were complaining of. Just wondering. Actually, what I'm really wondering is why anyone here actually helps you. But then I'm just a jackass.

    I was the jackass. All of the help thus far has been great and I realize it was given freely, which is why I'm not upset when I notice people ignoring me, lol. It's cool to have a pair of speakers that I will be able to pass down to one of my children one day. They could tell their friends how I worked on them like a crazy man.
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    fbm211 wrote: »
    I used washers to get them in tight.And then used a lot of hot glue.

    I wish I would have known this then lol. They're installed but I'm waiting on my new cables to come so I can try them out. Do you think it's going to be a problem the way I have them now (which is basically secured by hot glue)?
  • sda2mike
    sda2mike Posts: 3,131
    edited October 2011
    nspindel wrote: »
    Just wondering something. Now that you've done spikes, rings, inductors, binding posts, crossover mods (and broke them in), tweeters, and a custom interconnect, do you still think the people who told you to do spikes, rings, inductors, binding posts, crossover mods, tweeters, and a custom interconnect are jackasses? That's what you were calling us a couple of months ago when we trying to tell you what to do about the thin bass you were complaining of. Just wondering. Actually, what I'm really wondering is why anyone here actually helps you. But then I'm just a jackass.

    in defense of the op, he's really toned down his approach significantly..just another polkster to me
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited October 2011
    Not hard to tone down the approach, when the approach was to call us Taliban double-agents.
    I was the jackass. All of the help thus far has been great and I realize it was given freely, which is why I'm not upset when I notice people ignoring me, lol. It's cool to have a pair of speakers that I will be able to pass down to one of my children one day. They could tell their friends how I worked on them like a crazy man.

    audiocr381ve, that's sounding very much like an apology, minus the apology part. Articulating the "I'm sorry for being a jerk when you were trying to help me" part would go a long way.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited October 2011
    sda2mike wrote: »
    in defense of the op, he's really toned down his approach significantly..just another polkster to me

    Agreed. Just one of the boys,
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2011
    I wish I would have known this then lol. They're installed but I'm waiting on my new cables to come so I can try them out. Do you think it's going to be a problem the way I have them now (which is basically secured by hot glue)?

    Don't think it's a problem, but the hot glue may not be that strong if it's all that's holding them in. You'll need to be careful when connecting/disconnecting the IC cable. Also, make sure that they are sealed so there's no air leak at the point they penetrate the back wall.

    I left the original pin/blade socket in place when I installed my IC binding post. Just drilled an extra hole and sealed with Moretite.

    My wife looked at me several times like I was nuts with all the work I did on my 2.3TL's. :rolleyes: As nice as they sound now, I kind of miss the modding part - It's fun :cheesygrin:

    I'm waiting for Darqueknight, or someone else to invent the next round of tweaks so I can have at it again. Although I think my next mod will be - as Time Allen says - MORE POWER!
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    nspindel wrote: »
    Not hard to tone down the approach, when the approach was to call us Taliban double-agents.



    audiocr381ve, that's sounding very much like an apology, minus the apology part. Articulating the "I'm sorry for being a jerk when you were trying to help me" part would go a long way.

    Haha, it was an apology. I have been a jackass, I have said some jackass things that I shouldn't have said, and I will most likely be a jackass again at some point :P One thing is for sure, nobody has to help me and I'm very grateful for those who continue to. I love me some Polk speakers and I want to keep feeling like I know how to modify them :cheesygrin:

    sda2mike, thanks for that broseph.
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    Joe08867 wrote: »
    Agreed. Just one of the boys,

    Thanks dude.
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    drumminman wrote: »
    Don't think it's a problem, but the hot glue may not be that strong if it's all that's holding them in. You'll need to be careful when connecting/disconnecting the IC cable. Also, make sure that they are sealed so there's no air leak at the point they penetrate the back wall.

    I left the original pin/blade socket in place when I installed my IC binding post. Just drilled an extra hole and sealed with Moretite.

    My wife looked at me several times like I was nuts with all the work I did on my 2.3TL's. :rolleyes: As nice as they sound now, I kind of miss the modding part - It's fun :cheesygrin:

    I'm waiting for Darqueknight, or someone else to invent the next round of tweaks so I can have at it again. Although I think my next mod will be - as Time Allen says - MORE POWER!

    Totally agreed. The modding part is equally fun and frustrating. My wife also things I have some screws loose.

    I might go back and fix them to have to peace of mind. I think the washer idea would work well.
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited October 2011
    No problem,

    I am sure your wife thinks you have screws loose for more than this reason. :razz:

    I would be real careful when connecting and disconnecting that cable. Hot Glue isn't the strongest bonding agent in the world. I would replace it with some washers if you can.
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited October 2011
    Joe08867 wrote: »
    No problem,

    I would be real careful when connecting and disconnecting that cable. Hot Glue isn't the strongest bonding agent in the world. I would replace it with some washers if you can.

    Got it, will do.
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited October 2011
    Haha, it was an apology. I have been a jackass, I have said some jackass things that I shouldn't have said, and I will most likely be a jackass again at some point :P One thing is for sure, nobody has to help me and I'm very grateful for those who continue to. I love me some Polk speakers and I want to keep feeling like I know how to modify them :cheesygrin:

    sda2mike, thanks for that broseph.

    Apology accepted, happy to move on.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.