Gauges gas/sped/temp/rpm

Systems
Systems Posts: 14,873
edited September 2003 in Car Audio & Electronics
i bought one of them reverse glow gauges for my 2000 grandprix se an installed them not lookin anything up on the internet or whatever. an it didnt come with instructions.. but anyways i took of the pins an now my gauges are all **** up. wonderin if theres a way to reset them or how to fix them. HELP MEE!!! :P
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Comments

  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited September 2003
    Sounds like a good question for a 'grand prix' forum.
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    yes there is an easy way to fix it.

    but you have to wait till tomorrow night for me to get my book out.

    basically you have to remove the speedometer head

    pull it open on a bench - there is a wiring harness on top or on the back - i dont recall as of right now -- i'm pretty sure its on top like the CK pickups... cluster is pretty close.

    anyway - a few of those pins get 12V power -- a few get ground, some might get 5 V power as well.

    once you do that you can stake almost all the gauge needles exactly at zero ( gas would be a little before zero - cuz u dont care if u underestimate gas - just never wanna overestimate so u dont friggin run outa gas when u think u have more ya know)... temp and oil pressure might be at the dead middle point -- i'll have to check what my notes say... i'm not sure dude... but if i dont have the positions writtin down i can get the information for you with a phone call to the right guy.

    basically when you hit the head with base power all the gauges will read "dead" which is sometimes zero, and sometimes "middle" -- which is just the default position until they're hit with signal from sensors that makes them sit where the actual reading is when your'e driving...

    tach / gas / voltage should all read "zero"

    oil / temp will read zero or half

    speedo is aother story...

    as far as the speedometer goes you have to hit it with a frequency generator (ya i know... "where do i get one??")

    they're expensive dude -- best bet is to find a friend who has one, access to one, or goes to a school that has one.

    you need a certain frequency, certain voltage sine wave at which the speedometer will read " 60 miles an hour " -- when i open the book i can tell you the frequency, amplitude, and speed setting.

    that's not a problem.

    you just gotta find the frequency generator. cuz GM's tend to bury the needle on the zero side, otherwise i'd say u can just turn on the car and set it to zero.

    i'll get u full info tomorrow night. dont sweat it -- and if i have the information and you cannot figure it out - then you can mail it to me, and i'll do it -- for almsot a year all i did was speedometer recalibration / rebuild - up to 90 hours a week, and acouple thousand vehicles at that.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    ok fine -- i was bored -- well notbored but it was on my mind so i looked it up...

    pull out the head... flip it over.

    you wanna be lookin at the back of the head, with the two plug harnesses at the TOP. the head kinda looks like a "U" shape and you want the U to be upside down.

    there are 4 gauge clusters.

    i dont have the order labeled, but... the pin outs on back are from left to right -- in groups of 4 (the speedometer one itself may only be 3)

    there'll be 4 groups of 4 (or 3 of 4 and 1 of 3).

    pins are in a rectangle... -- top left / top right / bottom right / bottom left. -- for EACH needle.

    now...

    1st pin set to your LEFT

    top right pin is GROUND.

    2nd Pin set to your LEFT (this is the speedo)

    top left pin is 12.5 volts positive, top right pin is negative, bottom left pin is FREQUENCY INPUT.

    a sine wave of 66.5 hertz and 12.5 volts amplitude will give you a 60 mile per hour needle position.

    so make sure your **** all set then turn the juice on -- then wait 10 seconds for the motor to move... then put the needle on at 60 miles an hour -- turn the frequency generator off. it'll move back to zero. turn the freq back on -- it should go to 60.. if its 59 or 61, leave it, that's as close as you're gonna get.. if its 55... try to re put it on and get it as close to 60 as possible.

    gas will be a zero with 12 volt power on.
    tach will be a zero.
    temp and oil i dont know man -- i can call this kid sometime tomorrow and he'd have better notes -- he still does htis **** so he'd know.
    but if i cant get him - then i would say plug the head in - let the car run for 30 minutes - then set the needle for temp where it normally sits when the car is warm at idle... hopefully you remembe that. -- i do for my cars.
    same goes for oil pressure.
    voltage will be zero or 12.5 depnding on how its wired inside -- my suggestion is do the ohter needles, then make sure it all good and just pluge the head back into the car -- dont put the dash bakc -- just plug the head in and turn the car on, then let it run a minute so the alt will kick in and u' dbe at 14 volts- then peg the needle at 14 volts...

    what you're sposed to do is write down all your needle positions (with powre to the head on the bench test equpiment) before you pull them off.

    but you obviously dont hve that luxury...
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    if anyone has a harley davidson with way too many miles and wants it to read many many less miles - let me know - i've got all the PPU codes for everything down to "1 miles" :) he he he he he

    got lexus **** too -- u know you can actually change the vin code that's in the computer -- then as long as you get rid of the digits on the block / trannie / dash / door jambs / and inside of the gas tank no one will ever know you stole it...

    all i need is the fkin programmers -- got the programs, the manuals, the knowledge - but not the interface programmers. which is sad cuz they're usually like one or two chips and a couple of capacitors ghetto rigged together.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge