Monitor 10's???

Phasewolf

I just picked up a set of monitor 10's this weekend and I am not sure what is going on with them. The one works great and both drivers when you watch are moving the same amount but the other one is not quite right.

One of the 6.5 drivers is moving a lot more then the other one. Both drivers sound ok best I can tell however the one is not as loud. Could it be that the magnet shifted just a bit? Sense the other one is moving good I don't think it would be a crossover issue.

Thanks for your time. John

Polkersince85

If you gently push the drivers in and listen/feel for rubbing, this will tell if the magnet shifted. If they feel smooth, then unscrew them from the cabinet and check the wiring to the speakers, If that looks good then play them with the cabinet open to see if both are playing.

The same connection plays both drivers from the Xover so that would rule it out if one plays fine. One driver playing in a sealed cabinet could make the dead one look like it is playing.

Phasewolf

Did not think about one making the other one look like it is playing. I will take a look in a wile, I have pushed in with my fingers close to the center and I can't hear it rubbing but I still need to pull the driver.

Phasewolf

Ok I opened the speaker up and well someone may of been inside of it before I owned it. First thing is the wires are not on clip but soldered on the speakers and all the wires are black. There was enuf filler in the speaker to fill 3. The crossover is not like any of the other ones I have seen on the other pic I have seen on the Monitor 10's

This pic is a side view of the cup that has the binding posts and the crossover.

This is a top view.

Any idea what version of the Monitor 10 this may be. There are 2 fuses on the back and it does have the peerless tweeters. The 6.5 inch drivers did not have a sticker on them with a part number.

geppy1

Can you send a picture of the front of the speakers?? Do both speaker x overs have two fuses?? keith

Phasewolf

Yes both have 2 fuses. I can get a pic give me a few.

geppy1

That is a very early Monitor 10 1977-78 Early version of the 6500 driver and Denmark made Peerless tweeeters. Usualy the passive would have the gray stuff onit also. Do both xovers look the same???

Phasewolf

I have not pulled the other crossover I am about to get going to work I will when I get home. What is odd with the crossover that I did pull is how it's wired up. I am going to try and look at how it is wired tonight. There is only 2 caps on the crossover and all the prints I have seen shows 3. One of the 12 uf caps seems missing. When I rebuild this should I build it to the print I found on this site? Also there seems to be way too much stuffing in the box, behind the tweeter is packed and it's like that all the way to the bottom there is just slightly less stuffing where the 10" is the stuffing comes with in a inch of the back of it. The 2 drivers when I pulled them out were pressed into the stuffing tightly. The one driver does not move when I pulled the working one but I have not seen the back of it as of yet but the cone moves freely. So whats next.

mole'

those look different from my Monitor 10s

Phasewolf

Yes they seem to be fairly old. I need to look for more info on them.

geppy1

Again,That is a very early Monitor 10 1977-78 Early version of the 6500 driver and Denmark made Peerless

Phasewolf

Would it hurt anything if I rebuild the crossover and set it up like the slightly later monitor 10a? I really want to know if should add the external 12um cap to the crossover or not. I all ready know I have some fill to remove.

Outfitter03

I ended up buying one speaker exactly like this. It was a local Monitor 10 on Ebay and I hoped to pick it up for extra drivers for my set . The picture quality wasn't very good and I was a bit surprised when I picked it up. It was completely different from mine which I now know are early Monitor 10As. The cabinet was pretty hammered so I stripped the components out. The crossover is as you describe. There is a 2.7 ohm resistor in series with the 12 uf yellow film capacitor. The hot lead then is hooked onto the series connection between the cap and the inductor. Everything is point to point soldered.

So the two differences between the original schematic for Monitor 10's is that the first series resistor is 2.7 ohms vs 2.5 and the resistor is not bypassed by an additional 12uf cap.

I wondered if the stuffing was factory because I filled an entire large lawn leaf bag with poly fill from the cabinet. Sounds like it was.

So if you end up needing some spare drivers that are in fair to good cosmetic condition I have some.

Phasewolf

I may need one driver sense I have one that is not working tho I still need to pull it and take a look at it. Did the caps look the same as mine? If you would post a pic of the top of your crossover please.

Outfitter03

My crossover is the same as yours. The drivers in these were installed with lots of gasket material (Moretite) and it definitely hardened over 30 years. No small chore getting the tweeter out. The wire interconnects were not installed to the drivers with Fastons either. I just clipped the wires for removal. If you end up replacing a driver, you will need to solder them on and be sure to heatsink the driver well.

Outfitter03

Back of driver. Interesting Nomenclature.

Outfitter03

Looks same on front. Don't have images on hard drive of crossover, but it is the same as yours.

Phasewolf

Thanks a lot. I am at work as of now but I will see if I need one when I get home and contact you .