Do you bi-wire or use jumpers on your 2.3tl's,1.2tl's etc?

brgman
brgman Posts: 2,859
edited October 2011 in Vintage Speakers
Is there a real advantage of using a bi-wire speaker cable over using the jumper wires on the binding posts?
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Post edited by brgman on

Comments

  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2011
    I use biwires on my 2.3TL's. I read about the advantages once, but I can't remember the technical details well enough to recite them.

    I use 15 awg low inductance braided (think Litz wire) teflon cable for the highs, and 9 awg for the lows. Works very well.

    If you can borrow some speaker wire you could try both and decide which you like better.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    Just replace the jumpers with quality wire or jumpers and you will hear improvment as well as replacing your SDA cable with quality wire, and you will be set..
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2011
    +1 on the SDA interconnect. I made a new one out of the same wire as the speaker cable, and the improvement was not subtle.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited October 2011
    Upgrading the interconnect is a must. Huge gains to be had with that alone.
  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    edited October 2011
    I am going to use the same wire that I have going to the speakers to jump, per what I have read here. Is it okay for the wires to touch?
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2011
    deronb1 wrote: »
    I am going to use the same wire that I have going to the speakers to jump, per what I have read here. Is it okay for the wires to touch?

    If you mean for bare wires to touch each other, N-o-o-o-o-! You'll fry your amp. And be sure you hook + to +, - to -.

    It's OK for the insulated part of the wires to touch.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    edited October 2011
    Got it! Should I get some spade connectors or something then. I am having trouble getting the one end of the bare wire to stay connected.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,447
    edited October 2011
    spades would work