Holy Crap those are expensive!

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Comments

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    The fire department had to put out the flames!!!
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited October 2011
    The fire department had to put out the flames!!!

    In his listening room, or in this thread ?? :mrgreen:
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • WGDB
    WGDB Posts: 162
    edited October 2011
    He posted something on another thread really late last night about what type of wire he should use to extend/lengthen to reach the crossover.....
    Pioneer Elite SC-35, Polk RTA (Real Time Array) 12's,
    Polk Monitor 40 surrounds, Polk CSiA4 Center,
    Polk PSW125, Sharp LC-46D62U,
    Panasonic DMP-BD85, Harmony One,
    iMac streaming an Apple TVII, or Squeezebox Touch
    Bedroom Rig~Sony STRDG-920, Polk Monitor 60 fronts, Polk RM6750 Satellites and Sub, Panasonic DMP-BD85
    Rabbit Hole Rig~Yamaha CA1010, Yamaha CT1010, Polk SDA 2A's, Teac A1500 R2R
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited October 2011
    WGDB wrote: »
    He posted something on another thread really late last night about what type of wire he should use to extend/lengthen to reach the crossover.....

    That's actually a very good question and I need a recommendation myself for my similar project.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • WGDB
    WGDB Posts: 162
    edited October 2011
    Pioneer Elite SC-35, Polk RTA (Real Time Array) 12's,
    Polk Monitor 40 surrounds, Polk CSiA4 Center,
    Polk PSW125, Sharp LC-46D62U,
    Panasonic DMP-BD85, Harmony One,
    iMac streaming an Apple TVII, or Squeezebox Touch
    Bedroom Rig~Sony STRDG-920, Polk Monitor 60 fronts, Polk RM6750 Satellites and Sub, Panasonic DMP-BD85
    Rabbit Hole Rig~Yamaha CA1010, Yamaha CT1010, Polk SDA 2A's, Teac A1500 R2R
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited October 2011
    It's an awful suggestion to unwind an inductor in order to tune them up, by ear. One, it's unreliable as your system changes now and then, and so does your internal reference. Two, why would you even do that as it's ridiculous.

    Just buy the correct value and leave it alone. If you must unwind it to get to the correct DCR, that I understand but don't start tuning your inductors and loudspeakers by ear using this idea.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • OldmanSRS
    OldmanSRS Posts: 419
    edited October 2011
    dorokusai wrote: »
    It's an awful suggestion to unwind an inductor in order to tune them up, by ear. One, it's unreliable as your system changes now and then, and so does your internal reference. Two, why would you even do that as it's ridiculous.

    Just buy the correct value and leave it alone. If you must unwind it to get to the correct DCR, that I understand but don't start tuning your inductors and loudspeakers by ear using this idea.

    I assume this was directed at me since I took this route and provided frequency response data correlated to what I heard as I removed the turns.

    If you must unwind it to get to the correct DCR, that I understand
    Removing turns to decrease DCR will also decrease inductance so how is this acceptable to you?

    I view removing turns to arrive at an inductance that's close to stock and/or to achieve an improvement in upper bass response, every bit as acceptable as adding or not adding a resistor in place of a polyswitch or removing the bypass cap in parallel with the 5.8 uF metal film cap in the tweeter section. What about mortite, dynamat on the baskets? The list goes on.
    '65 427 Shelby Cobra
    '72 Triumph TR-6
    __________________
    '88 Polk SDA SRS 1.2, with upgraded XO caps and Erse SDA inductors
    '86 Polk SDA CRS+
    '84 Polk Monitor 10A (Peerless tweeters)
    '05 HSU VTF-3 Sub (Original OEM)
    '20 HSU VTF-3 Sub (three more, 100% cloned)
    '93 Carver TFM-35
    '88 Carver M-1.0t
    '88 Adcom GFT-555
    '88 Adcom GFP-555
    '88 Adcom GFA-555 (upgraded/restored)
    '88 Adcom GFA-555 (a second one upgraded/restored)
    '05 Onkyo DV-555 media
    '89 Fosgate 360 Digital Space Matrix
    '89 Fosgate 360 Digital Space Matrix, internal surround amp bridged to drive only a center channel
    '91 Kenwood Basic M1D Amp
    '89 Pioneer Laser Disc media
    '89 Sony SuperBeta HiFi media
    One PGA2310 based custom built remote volume control
    Four Polk T-15's
    Four Polk TSi-200's
    Four Polk TSi-100's
    Two Polk CS-10's