Just for the music

SVanderkolff
SVanderkolff Posts: 6
edited October 2011 in Speakers
I am looking to upgrade the speakers on my home system. The current set of speakers are a pair of A7's from Polk that I purchased in 1977. I figure I have gotten my money's worth out of them. Now I need a new set. These will be used only on my stereo for music, I have a Cambridge Audio amp and Onkyo tuner and cd player. Most of the music I listen to will be Blues and classical. What would you recommend for tower speakers for under $1000? I have been leaning towards either the TSi 500 or the RTi 12. Which would be better? Or is there another suggestion? I also have the opportunity of buying a pair of the Klipsch RF 82 instead.
Thanks for the help.
Steve
Post edited by SVanderkolff on
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2011
    Polk A7 form 1977? I am not familiar with these. Can you post a picture?
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited October 2011
    Wonder if he means Monitor 7A's.

    For music only I would go TSi before RTi.

    My first choice form Polk now would be the LSiM series speakers for music only.
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  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited October 2011
    I'd really look at some LSi9's, you could purchase them AND have them modded most likely for under 1k. A lot of bang for your buck!
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  • devani
    devani Posts: 1,497
    edited October 2011
    LSI15 is under $1000...since he's looking for towers
    Video: LG 55LN5100/Samsung LNT4065F
    Receiver: HK AVR445
    Source: OPPO BDP-93
    HT: POLK SPEAKERS RTi6, FXi3, CSi5, VTF-3 MK2
    2Ch system: MC2105, AR-XA, AR-2A, AR9, BX-300, OPPO BDP-83
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  • SVanderkolff
    SVanderkolff Posts: 6
    edited October 2011
    Well I know I bought them in 1977 and the little piece of paper on the back says POLK A 7. They are roughly 24" high and 16" wide and 16" deep. wood outside.
    Steve
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited October 2011
    The depth has me a bit stumped but everything else seems to measure up to the Monitor 7.

    Nothing wrong with those for sure.

    Like the others have said, if you want to go for music the LSi and LSiM lines are probably your best bet.
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  • thesurfer
    thesurfer Posts: 574
    edited October 2011
    Joe08867 wrote: »
    Wonder if he means Monitor 7A's.

    For music only I would go TSi before RTi.

    My first choice form Polk now would be the LSiM series speakers for music only.
    Why, would you prefer the TSI, line over the RTI, line for music?? as the RTi line use better drivers, and crossovers??
    Not an Audiophile, just a dude who loves music, and decent gear to hear it with.
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited October 2011
    I am not a fan of the bright sound the RTi line has. Is it the tweeter the crossover or both? Not sure just not a huge fan of the bright sizzle sound I hear.

    I understand the TSi isn't the best of the bunch but it is a more well rounded sound to me. A bit more mellow and not as finicky about setup as the RTi series either.

    The best bet would be to take a favorite CD to a place and hear them for yourself. What you hear might not be what I hear.
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  • thesurfer
    thesurfer Posts: 574
    edited October 2011
    Joe08867 wrote: »
    I am not a fan of the bright sound the RTi line has. Is it the tweeter the crossover or both? Not sure just not a huge fan of the bright sizzle sound I hear.

    I understand the TSi isn't the best of the bunch but it is a more well rounded sound to me. A bit more mellow and not as finicky about setup as the RTi series either.

    The best bet would be to take a favorite CD to a place and hear them for yourself. What you hear might not be what I hear.
    Ya, ive heard that, one guy told me he prefered the TSI 200, over the RTIA1, depends on what one is looking for,
    Not an Audiophile, just a dude who loves music, and decent gear to hear it with.
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,465
    edited October 2011
    Magnepan MMG's and a small sub would be my choice given the budget and the music type the OP listens to.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • SRTer
    SRTer Posts: 372
    edited October 2011
    A simple EQ adjustment in the 8kHz-16kHz or a tone adjust on the trebal would easily take care of the brightness some may experience.

    This is in reference to RTi A / RTi speakers.
    Fronts: Polk RTi A9
    Center: Polk CSI A6
    Rears: Polk RTi A7
    Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
    Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
    Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
    TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
    Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited October 2011
    SRTer wrote: »
    A simple EQ adjustment in the 8kHz-16kHz or a tone adjust on the trebal would easily take care of the brightness some may experience.

    This is in reference to RTi A / RTi speakers.

    I hate EQ's. If a speaker needs an EQ to sound right it isn't right for me. I don't use any EQ's on my systems at all.
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2011
    I'd still like to see a picture of your Polk A7 speakers. I have been building a catalog of vintage Polks and every now and then I find one that I had not seen before.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • rebuy
    rebuy Posts: 695
    edited October 2011
    After living with RTI's for awhile, I think they are excellent speakers and would choose them anytime over the Monitor or TSI lines. Everybody hears things differently and some might prefer the tonal attributes of another line. That is why we have choices, different strokes for different folks.
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,995
    edited October 2011
    Original Monitor Series Model 7 (and 10) - note the uncoated paper PRs; 8" on the 7.
    earlypolkfamilyportrait.jpg

    Monitor Series Model 7A (coated 10" PR -- although the PR in this Gordon Miller Music ad is inexplicably uncoated)
    whatmore.jpg

    Just looked at mine and it clearly says Model: 7A on the s/n tag... so the OP's A7s are mysterious...

    Polkmonitor7Asn4900.jpg
    s/n of the one in the photo is 1900, as it turns out... I didn't look at the other one just now...

    If the OP's Polks are 7As, though... I wouldn't be in any hurry to replace 'em, myself (given that mine have been in continuous service since 1978). Oh, and if they happen to be Altec Lansing Voice of the Theatre A7s... I would definitely leave well enough alone :-)

    Just one opinion, of course.
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  • SVanderkolff
    SVanderkolff Posts: 6
    edited October 2011
    Well Mr Hardy, you are correct. They are 7A's. The one I took pictures of has a serial number 11492. I didn't think to check the other one. I have the pictures on my phone if you want me to email them to you just pm me. Not sure how to post pictures on this forum. Also not nearly as deep as I thought they were.
    Thanks
    Steve
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2011
    Most will agree that the Monitor (Model) 7 is one of the best balanced and best sounding of the vintage Monitor series. This is especially true with the Peerless tweeter that is used in the 7A. If your 7A's are in good condition, you may be better off upgrading the cross over capacitors and resistors rather than replacing the speakers for something more modern. It may actually be a downgrade.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • SVanderkolff
    SVanderkolff Posts: 6
    edited October 2011
    Not really wanting to advertise my ignorance but, what does "upgrading the cross over capacitors and resistors " mean. I have a set of braided wires that are attached to my amp and to my speakers. I seem to remember that there used to be some little black plastic box thingies that were attached to the wires but they have long since disappeared.
    As you can tell this is not my area of expertise so I thank you for all the help.
    Steve
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  • devani
    devani Posts: 1,497
    edited October 2011
    in that case, i would leave them alone....

    peerless tweeter maybe the most prefered of the monitor lines but i like the LSi series better....I know apples to oranges...but I have both and i like the LSi better....i also have monitor 50 which is same as TSI series....
    Video: LG 55LN5100/Samsung LNT4065F
    Receiver: HK AVR445
    Source: OPPO BDP-93
    HT: POLK SPEAKERS RTi6, FXi3, CSi5, VTF-3 MK2
    2Ch system: MC2105, AR-XA, AR-2A, AR9, BX-300, OPPO BDP-83
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2011
    SVanderkolff wrote: »
    Not really wanting to advertise my ignorance but, what does "upgrading the cross over capacitors and resistors " mean. ...

    There are many threads in the Vintage and DIY sections on upgrading the XO components. It is basically direct swapping the old electrolytic capacitors for better quality film based capacitors (ie ClarityCap, Sonicap and others). Also changing the resistors for non inductive, tighter tolerance resistors (ie Mills or Mundorf). Since you would not be changing values, the only real skill needed is to be able to use a soldering iron.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited October 2011
    SVanderkolff wrote: »
    Well Mr Hardy, you are correct. They are 7A's. The one I took pictures of has a serial number 11492. I didn't think to check the other one. I have the pictures on my phone if you want me to email them to you just pm me. Not sure how to post pictures on this forum. Also not nearly as deep as I thought they were.
    Thanks
    Steve

    Cool I got it right. Sorry had to do that.

    7A's updated with new caps and such will really sound awesome. I would still look into LSi's though.
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,995
    edited October 2011
    SVanderkolff wrote: »
    Not really wanting to advertise my ignorance but, what does "upgrading the cross over capacitors and resistors " mean. I have a set of braided wires that are attached to my amp and to my speakers. I seem to remember that there used to be some little black plastic box thingies that were attached to the wires but they have long since disappeared.
    As you can tell this is not my area of expertise so I thank you for all the help.
    Steve

    The tweeter and midbass driver in your speakers handle specific frequency ranges of the audio signal applied to them. Those ranges are set and contoured using an electrical filter network called a crossover. The fairly simple crossover networks in the 7A are comprised of three flavors of "passive" (non-amplifying) components, an inductor (also called a coil or choke), a resistor, and a capacitor. Manufacturing economics dictate the use of fairly inexpensive components in the crossover. Further, the passage of time can be hard on certain types of capacitors. You have an opportunity for relatively short $ to markedly improve the electrical performance, and also likely the sound of your crossovers (and thus speakers) by investing in a couple of good quality crossover capacitors and/or resistors (the air core inductors in the 7A are pretty nice, actually). You can look at some of the options for good/better/best :-) capacitors and some power resistor options for crossover refreshing at places like www.partsexpress.com and www.madisound.com Parts Express has a fair amount of information as well as a forum for speaker design, building, and modification.
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