"Better" Fuses for Cross over networks

Michael8it
Michael8it Posts: 192
edited October 2011 in Vintage Speakers
I am prepping for my 12B Rebuild and have read some comments on the fuses used on these. Are there in fact audiophile fuses or is that just talk?

thanks,
Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
Post edited by Michael8it on
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited October 2011
    Yes . . .

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?63078-IsoClean-Audio-Grade-Fuses&highlight=audiophile+fuses

    . . . but standard practice for many is to remove fuses when upgrading.
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  • Michael8it
    Michael8it Posts: 192
    edited October 2011
    Ok, as some signatures read - it is better to take the fuse out complete in the crossover on speakers. Since I have no little munchkins running around to crank stuff up too high, could I not just take the fuse out completely? Either jumper it with a piece of copper, or wire? If I understand correctly, the risk is that I could overdrive the speaker and blow the tweeter or other driver, correct?
    Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2011
    Michael8it wrote: »
    Ok, as some signatures read - it is better to take the fuse out complete in the crossover on speakers. Since I have no little munchkins running around to crank stuff up too high, could I not just take the fuse out completely? Either jumper it with a piece of copper, or wire? If I understand correctly, the risk is that I could overdrive the speaker and blow the tweeter or other driver, correct?

    Next time I feel like smelling some solder fumes that's what I'm gonna do. I have some leftover teflon occ copper wire that'll work just fine.

    I bought my 12C's new in 1984, have driven them to very high levels (with clean amplification) and never blown a fuse.

    Besides, I know where to get replacement tweeters :lol:
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • Michael8it
    Michael8it Posts: 192
    edited October 2011
    I just got my 'new to me' 6600 drivers to put in these, so I will have the soldering iron out anyway. May just lumper these out and see how it sounds.
    Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2011
    Michael8it wrote: »
    I just got my 'new to me' 6600 drivers to put in these, so I will have the soldering iron out anyway. May just lumper these out and see how it sounds.

    Post your impressions if you get rid of the fuses. Interested to learn what, if any, difference you hear.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • Michael8it
    Michael8it Posts: 192
    edited October 2011
    It seems it have taken the edge off the tweeters which is good. When I changed from the RTA 12 to 12B crossovers, there was so much more treble I took my EQ out of the circuit completely. On some pieces, say a Hayden or Hummel piece with Wynton Marsalis, there were times when the trumpet was shrill. That shrill edge seems to be dissipated. The mids seems more accurate too. but I really notice the shrillness off. There also seems to be less hiss. When I had the amp on and no source, there was a very faint hiss in the tweeters, I am assuming because of the age of the crossovers. It is still there, but there is less of it.

    My Method - I grabbed some 12 gauge copper house wiring from the garage, went on the backside of the board, where there was only a 1/8" gap between the two contact points, scraped the spots I wanted to solder on the jumper, and placed it there. If I need to put a fuse back in, I just take the jumper off. The fuse holder itself is unchanged.

    The mids may have been affected more by the fill I put in them (there was none before) than by the fuse.
    Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2011
    Michael8it wrote: »
    It seems it have taken the edge off the tweeters which is good. When I changed from the RTA 12 to 12B crossovers, there was so much more treble I took my EQ out of the circuit completely. On some pieces, say a Hayden or Hummel piece with Wynton Marsalis, there were times when the trumpet was shrill. That shrill edge seems to be dissipated. The mids seems more accurate too. but I really notice the shrillness off. There also seems to be less hiss. When I had the amp on and no source, there was a very faint hiss in the tweeters, I am assuming because of the age of the crossovers. It is still there, but there is less of it.

    My Method - I grabbed some 12 gauge copper house wiring from the garage, went on the backside of the board, where there was only a 1/8" gap between the two contact points, scraped the spots I wanted to solder on the jumper, and placed it there. If I need to put a fuse back in, I just take the jumper off. The fuse holder itself is unchanged.

    The mids may have been affected more by the fill I put in them (there was none before) than by the fuse.

    Interesting! I've always heard those Peerless tweeters are smooth, yet you heard an edge with the 12B Xovers. I've just added another tweak to my list, which had been growing shorter :lol:
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited October 2011
    The fuse (except in rare cases) serves only to protect the tweeter from being over driven. There was only 1 or 2 models, IIRC, that fused the mids. The info is all here on the forum somewhere.

    Yes, eliminating the fuse (or polyswitch in later models) will change how the tweeters sound. Whether it's an improvement or not is up to you and your ears :)
    Ludicrous gibs!
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