Dynamat vs Fatmat
Michael8it
Posts: 192
I am getting closer to my 12B overhaul and found an alternative product to Dynamat called fatmat . I wanted to know if anyone has had any experience with this product. is is far less expensive than Dynamat, and since in this particular application, we are only looking to stop vibration, not block noise (which is what Dynamat is also designed to do), this should work fine. Actually, Felt or even silicone caulk would probably work to stop the speaker basket from vibrating, although caulk would be a mess to apply.
Please let me know if you have had any experience with this product.
Please let me know if you have had any experience with this product.
Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
Post edited by Michael8it on
Comments
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Michael8it wrote: »I am getting closer to my 12B overhaul and found an alternative product to Dynamat called fatmat . I wanted to know if anyone has had any experience with this product. is is far less expensive than Dynamat, and since in this particular application, we are only looking to stop vibration, not block noise (which is what Dynamat is also designed to do), this should work fine. Actually, Felt or even silicone caulk would probably work to stop the speaker basket from vibrating, although caulk would be a mess to apply.
Please let me know if you have had any experience with this product.
I've used both and I can't tell that there's any difference when damping speaker baskets. They look very similar, too."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Thanks. I assumed that was the case - and I can get 10 sq ft for $20 shipped. That is far less than Dynamat!Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
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and since in this particular application, we are only looking to stop vibration, not block noise (which is what Dynamat is also designed to do),
We are looking to stop/block both as one is the same as the other. Dynamat Extreme appears to be thicker and therefore will do a better job.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I use only Dynamat Extreme.
Dozens,if not hundreds of polkies went that route and i consider it the standard for the application.just my opinion.Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC
Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords
I’M OFFENDED!!!! -
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I just used a dynamat wedge kit. It is like a 4 foot roll and it was enough to do my RTI A7's and CSI A4.
Your talking about putting it on the magnet shields and basket fingers right?
$24.50
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DYNAMAT-10425-XTREME-EXTREME-CAR-WEDGE-PACK-PAK-SOUND-DEADENING-DEADENER-DAMPING-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item53e97c2a79&item=360399514233&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
Rear: FXI A4
Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II -
I am just giving another option from my car audio days. One of the best rated products that I used was http://www.raamaudio.com/. Another alternative would be http://secondskinaudio.com/
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Evening Michael,
to add to the mix, I have fat matted all my polks and it worked wonders from the moment I applied it.
I think you could get away perfectly with the fat mat and save yourself some $$ for later overhauls.
My 2 cents for ya, make sure to spend them wisely, we are in a recession.
ESRAVR: Sony 5600ES
Center: CS2II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
Front: Monitor 70 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coils, Mundorf resistors)
Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
Rear Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
More to come :biggrin: -
Yes, this is to dampen vibration on the speaker baskets (magnet shields and fingers). Everyone that has done this said it made a tremendous difference. I happened across the FatMat product and thought it would do the same job for a lot less.Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
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Michael8it wrote: »Yes, this is to dampen vibration on the speaker baskets (magnet shields and fingers). Everyone that has done this said it made a tremendous difference. I happened across the FatMat product and thought it would do the same job for a lot less.
Just wanted to make sure. I dont my RTI A7's and CSI A4 with a dynamat wedge kit. It cost like 24 bucks and done all 3 speakers.
AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
Rear: FXI A4
Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II -
Very similar, but cheaper. Either will do the job, but if you can save some coin, I would (and have) gone that route.