New to the world of car audio, question about an amp/speakers/subwoofer

dan553

Hello all,

I'm new to the world of car audio electronics and everything. I replaced all 4 door speakers in my 97 honda accord LE about 2 years ago at best buy and for some reason one of my speakers in the front stopped working. I do like to put my volume up high sometimes but I'm not sure if thats the cause. It became fuzzy for about 2 months and eventually stopped working all together.

Recently I bought a pair of Sony Xplod 6.5 inch XS-R1644 4 way speakers (270 watt peak, for the front and also
a pair of Pioneer 6" X 9" 5-Way Speakers, 600W/80W RMS (I think. 2 different sites said 40 RMS and 80 RMS so Im not sure) for the back

I also purchased a SONY XPLOD XSGTX120L CAR AUDIO 12 INCH SUB WOOFER 4 OHM 1000 W peak 300 W RMS

And the last thing I purchased was an 800 watt Sound Storm SSL F4.800

From what I understand (unfortunately after I already bought everything), Underpowering your speakers and subwoofer can be just as dangerous because of clipping? Well while reading up on the amp I saw that RMS is only 85W per channel. Its 4 channels and I planned on asking best buy (because i am just not confident at all when it comes to installation. even after installing a stupid door speaker my window stopped working) to install the front two speakers on channel 1, back two speakers on channel 2, and the subwoofer on channels 3 and 4. Do you think that this is going to be alright or just simply horrible idea that could ruin all my speakers? If there is only 85 Watts per channel and the subwoofer needs 300 then thats only half it will get. What do you think? Will it be ok as long as I dont try to blow the crap out of it, or should I stop while I'm ahead?

Really all I wanted to do was improve sound quality. I really like the pioneer 5way speakers. I tried 4 way sonys and the bass was great but I really just love a clear full sound with nice highs and things that make you feel like your actually in the music. But I also am working on a part time budget as well. Anyways sorry that this is much longer than it needs to be and I really appreciate any advice or input that will help me get started on this hobby!

Thanks!
Dan

MacLeod

5 way speakers? Sheesh what will they come up with next.

For the best sound, sell those 6x9's and just use the Sony front speakers and sub. You want as few speakers as possible because having the same frequencies coming at you from different distances can make them overlap and cancel each other out. You'll get more overall output from 4 speakers but not better sound quality.

As for the sub, that is kinda low in the wattage. It should still fatten up the low end and will be more musical but wont be able to do any pounding.


Ideally what you would want is a better set of speakers than those Sony's and a dedicated sub amp. I understand you're on a limited budget but speakers are the most important part of the system and you should get the best set you can afford.

dan553

Thanks for the info. I actually was planning on returning 2 sets of speakers because they didnt work with my car. So if you have any suggestions on better speakers for the front just let me know. The ones i bought were $47 from walmart. I ended up buying them because I saw that they were "4 way" speakers and i thought that it meant the quality is better then 2 ways or 3 ways.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sony-Xplod-XS-R1644-6-1-2-4-Way-Speakers/14956456 Those are the speakers currently in the front of my car, but I am willing to change them out if something will offer a large sound quality difference.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GT1627A/Sony-Xpl-d-XS-GT1627A.html?tp=105

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GTX1641/Sony-Xplod-XS-GTX1641.html?tp=105

These are two other sony models I found on crutchfield that are a bit more expensive. Do you think they are a better option? (sorry for always referencing sony but I just dont know other brands well).

Also I have been hearing a lot about component speaker systems and how they are virtually better than full range speakers. Are they hard to install? I imagine you have to do a lot of manual cutting hole making in your car which is just something I'm not good at.

MacLeod

Give me a budget and Ill pick you out a set of speakers.

dan553

Well, I guess $100 limit for 1 pair of speakers.

Dan

dan553

Well, I guess $100 limit for 1 pair of speakers.
Also, just throwing this out there, the reason I bought only an 800W amp is because my car's alternator is stock and i just use a battery that I buy from the regular auto mechanic. I didnt want to have issues with my battery exploding or me pushing my car to work everyday

Dan

dan553

Also, even throwing more at you >< (Im sorry for being ignorant of these things but I wanna learn as much as I can), I read up a bit more on the idea of leaving my 6x9s out of the picture. Well, it sounds great in theory to me but when I installed the front door speakers, they are in the door behind the stock grill. I can turn them up and they sound OK, but when i have those 6x9s going in the back man they just sound fantastic. I get a great crisp sound with good bass even from just full range speakers. The front speakers are just kind of small and if i turn them up loud (not ear shattering but enough to where you can hear it great with a window open), it really just sounds like stock speakers with an empty sound because theres nothing coming from behind me you know? Only from right by my feet. Maybe that is just because they are poor speakers? or because there is no amp or subwoofer installed?

arun1963

$ 100 isn't going to get you much, unless you're willing to go used. I know that sounds a bit rude, but ......Don't worry about the amp fuse and hence the amperes you think your amp would draw. Even with a stock alt and battery, the fuses on my amps add up to 100amps, this off a stock 70amp alternator.

When you listen to music of a 2ch rig, or when you go to see a concert, do you hear anything from behind you (apart from fans screaming :biggrin:)? Your ears are used to hearing the sound from the rear in your car, most people are. I know you just want a simple plug and play solution, but I'm just throwing out another line of thought. In the end go with what you feel best satisfies your needs.

If fronts only sounds weak that could be because of two reasons. Quality of components and/or sealing the door so that the front and back wave from the 6.5" mid doesn't cancel out the low end. A decent pair of components up front in a sealed door paired with a sub and some processing will give you great results. It will a bit more than $ 100 and surely more time, but the end result will be worth it. Depends on what you want to do.

decal

Quality of sound is not the same to everybody. If you like the way your rig sounds with rear speakers, use them. Don't change what you enjoy just because someone says it's not the "high end" thing to do.

arun1963

decal wrote: »

Quality of sound is not the same to everybody. If you like the way your rig sounds with rear speakers, use them. Don't change what you enjoy just because someone says it's not the "high end" thing to do.

That's the problem with speed reading, or reading with a mindset you tend to miss out stuff. :biggrin:

arun1963 wrote: »

I know you just want a simple plug and play solution, but I'm just throwing out another line of thought. In the end go with what you feel best satisfies your needs.

dan553

Thanks for all the advice. I guess i will put the amp an sub in and see how it goes and if i dont like it i will try to put component speakers in. If you have any recommendations on component speakers let me know and I can try to save up for them or find them at a discount price. I also heard about some kind of "dyno" seal or something. That is very important for sealing in the sound?

decal

arun1963 wrote: »

That's the problem with speed reading, or reading with a mindset you tend to miss out stuff. :biggrin:

I didn't miss anything, I made a statement. If you think I was talking about you, don't flatter yourself, it was just a generalization.:cheesygrin:

arun1963

decal wrote: »

I didn't miss anything, I made a statement. If you think I was talking about you, don't flatter yourself, it was just a generalization.:cheesygrin:

Right, so we can ignore you cause you weren't talking to anyone but just kinda baying at the moon:rolleyes:. Thanks for putting your post in perspective.

decal

Damn man, I must have really touched a nerve with you. Try not to be so thin skinned.:cheesygrin:

arun1963

Try not to be an idiot and if you get caught as one, learn to have the grace to accept it.

arun1963

dan553 wrote: »

Thanks for all the advice. I guess i will put the amp an sub in and see how it goes and if i dont like it i will try to put component speakers in. If you have any recommendations on component speakers let me know and I can try to save up for them or find them at a discount price. I also heard about some kind of "dyno" seal or something. That is very important for sealing in the sound?

Dynamat and yes its very important to seal your doors with the dynamat . This will give you a good bump in your mid bass end and prevent it from sounding thin and tinny.

decal

arun1963 wrote: »

Try not to be an idiot and if you get caught as one, learn to have the grace to accept it.

You really should think about seeing an anger management professional.

KaosTsoc

dan553,
This post will be king of long, and sorry for that. Well in general Sony's are not the best. Not trying to be rude, but to the point. I am helping a friend select some speakers at this time, and I have told him Sony is out of the question as whole. However keeping in mind that everyone has to start some where, and since you budget is $100, there are severl brands out there that would be in that price range, however you would only get one set. Again like Mac, and Arun put, you speakers are very important, and you want to get a good set. Here is what I have listed for my friend. Granted they will not be the best, but should be better than Sony for sure.

The Polk Audio’s are my personal choice for two major reasons. 1. They are a really good brand, and offer really good sound quality. 2. They are Marine Certified, which means if they get wet from rain or water it will not hurt them at all.

(Front Speakers)
Polk Audio MM6501 $175.95 (Amazon) - $229.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_107MM6501/Polk-Audio-MM6501.html?search=Polk_Audio_MM6501&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA6514-6-5-Inch-Speaker/dp/B001C3K7I4


Polk Audio Dxi 6500 $118.49 (Amazon) - $199.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DXI6500/Polk-Audio-DXi6500.html?search=Polk_Audio_Dxi6500&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-DXI6500-Speakers-300-Watt/dp/B004MF56N0


(Rear/Back Spearks)
Polk Audio MM651 $107.38 (Amazon) - $139.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_107MM651/Polk-Audio-MM651.html?search=Polk_Audio_MM651&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2651-6-5-Inch-Speaker/dp/B001C3P6FI



(All speaker listed here are other good options. They won’t Marine certified, and my need a baffle to keep them protected from water, but over all good choices as well.)

(Front Speakers)

Boston Acoustics S60 $94.87 (Amazon) - $79.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_065S60/Boston-Acoustics-S60.html?search=Boston_Acoustics_S60&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Acoustic-S60-Component-Speakers/dp/B0019R7IEY



Kenwood KFC-P709PS $65.85 (Amazon) - $95.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFCP709/Kenwood-KFC-P709PS.html?search=Kenwood_KFC-P709PS&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kfc-P709Ps-6-5-Inch-Performance-Component/dp/B0037PH2CY


Rockford Fosgate Prime R1652-S $70.34 (Amazon) - $99.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1652S/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1652-S.html?search=Rockford_Fosgate_Prime_R1652-S&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1652-S-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B002X786XG



Kicker DS65.2 $76.83 (Amazon) - $109.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DS652/Kicker-DS65-2.html?search=Kicker_DS65.2&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11DS65-2-Audio-Component-Speakers/dp/B004K5890Y



Pioneer TS-A1604C $65.33 (Amazon) - $119.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA1604/Pioneer-TS-A1604C.html?search=Pioneer_TS-A1604C&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-A1604C-Components-350-Watts/dp/B004CLYOIW


Alpine SPS-610C $78.00/$83.00 (Amazon) - $129.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS610C/Alpine-SPS-610C.html?search=Alpine_SPS-610C&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Sps-610c-Component-Speaker-Totalling/dp/B0057M8M7E


Diamond Audio D162.5 $129.99 (Crutchfield Only)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_114D1625/Diamond-Audio-D162-5.html?search=Diamond_Audio_D162.5&skipvs=T


JL Audio TR650-Csi $110.85 (Amazon) - $189.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136TR650CS/JL-Audio-TR650-CSi.html?search=JL_Audio_TR650-Csi&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/JL-AUDIO-TR-650-CSi-component/dp/B003QQ67HA

dan553

KaosTsoc wrote: »

dan553,
This post will be king of long, and sorry for that. Well in general Sony's are not the best. Not trying to be rude, but to the point. I am helping a friend select some speakers at this time, and I have told him Sony is out of the question as whole. However keeping in mind that everyone has to start some where, and since you budget is $100, there are severl brands out there that would be in that price range, however you would only get one set. Again like Mac, and Arun put, you speakers are very important, and you want to get a good set. Here is what I have listed for my friend. Granted they will not be the best, but should be better than Sony for sure.

The Polk Audio?s are my personal choice for two major reasons. 1. They are a really good brand, and offer really good sound quality. 2. They are Marine Certified, which means if they get wet from rain or water it will not hurt them at all.

(Front Speakers)
Polk Audio MM6501 $175.95 (Amazon) - $229.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_107MM6501/Polk-Audio-MM6501.html?search=Polk_Audio_MM6501&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA6514-6-5-Inch-Speaker/dp/B001C3K7I4


Polk Audio Dxi 6500 $118.49 (Amazon) - $199.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DXI6500/Polk-Audio-DXi6500.html?search=Polk_Audio_Dxi6500&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-DXI6500-Speakers-300-Watt/dp/B004MF56N0


(Rear/Back Spearks)
Polk Audio MM651 $107.38 (Amazon) - $139.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_107MM651/Polk-Audio-MM651.html?search=Polk_Audio_MM651&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2651-6-5-Inch-Speaker/dp/B001C3P6FI



(All speaker listed here are other good options. They won?t Marine certified, and my need a baffle to keep them protected from water, but over all good choices as well.)

(Front Speakers)

Boston Acoustics S60 $94.87 (Amazon) - $79.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_065S60/Boston-Acoustics-S60.html?search=Boston_Acoustics_S60&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Acoustic-S60-Component-Speakers/dp/B0019R7IEY



Kenwood KFC-P709PS $65.85 (Amazon) - $95.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFCP709/Kenwood-KFC-P709PS.html?search=Kenwood_KFC-P709PS&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kfc-P709Ps-6-5-Inch-Performance-Component/dp/B0037PH2CY


Rockford Fosgate Prime R1652-S $70.34 (Amazon) - $99.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1652S/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1652-S.html?search=Rockford_Fosgate_Prime_R1652-S&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1652-S-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B002X786XG



Kicker DS65.2 $76.83 (Amazon) - $109.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DS652/Kicker-DS65-2.html?search=Kicker_DS65.2&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11DS65-2-Audio-Component-Speakers/dp/B004K5890Y



Pioneer TS-A1604C $65.33 (Amazon) - $119.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA1604/Pioneer-TS-A1604C.html?search=Pioneer_TS-A1604C&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-A1604C-Components-350-Watts/dp/B004CLYOIW


Alpine SPS-610C $78.00/$83.00 (Amazon) - $129.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS610C/Alpine-SPS-610C.html?search=Alpine_SPS-610C&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Sps-610c-Component-Speaker-Totalling/dp/B0057M8M7E


Diamond Audio D162.5 $129.99 (Crutchfield Only)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_114D1625/Diamond-Audio-D162-5.html?search=Diamond_Audio_D162.5&skipvs=T


JL Audio TR650-Csi $110.85 (Amazon) - $189.99 (Crutchfield)

(Crutchfield)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136TR650CS/JL-Audio-TR650-CSi.html?search=JL_Audio_TR650-Csi&skipvs=T

(Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/JL-AUDIO-TR-650-CSi-component/dp/B003QQ67HA

Thanks man!! I really appreciate it, unfortunately I lack the money to purchase any new ones. I just got my amp installed by best buy today and it was so expensive..:sad: I will save this though, thank you for all the info, i have another post with more questions to do below.

dan553

Alright here comes a couple more questions. Today I finally had my 4 channel Amp installed by best buy today. I purchased a power acoustics wiring kit and a 4 channel sound storm amp and brought it to them. They wired it so that the first 2 channels are the front and back speakers to my car, and (my subwoofer was supposed to arrive 2 days ago but UPS lost the package, fml) I can put the subwoofer in later. Ok so heres the questions

#1: For some reason after they have installed the amp, I have to turn the volume up a lot more on my HU. I used to keep it around 20, and then 22-25 was when you hear a song you like. Now when I hear a song i like i have to turn it up to about 40 just to get the same volume. Is that normal? My HU says its faded 4 to the left, maybe (because of the using only 2 channels in the amp) that means its faded to the front more and since my front speakers are the weaker sonys it isnt as loud?

#2 I do NOT want to go back to best buy to install the subwoofer. They said all together everything would costs around $120, and today it cost $130 to get just the amp installed... soooo I want to steer away from that. I am not so great on the "know-how" of car audio. Easy speaker installations is about as complex as I get. Anyways, is it difficult to install a subwoofer? and also, do I need extra cables? The best buy guy said Id prolly need an extra RCA cable, but I want to double check and make sure.. It looks like I have one extra here from the kit, a bass controller, some smaller connectors and a smaller wire. I am posting a pic with this thread to show what I have left. If you know what I need or am missing please let me know. Also any instructions would be nice. They didnt give me back the instructions with my amp box :evil:

#3. They installed the amplifier in the trunk of my car. Obviously my subwoofer needs to go there too. I have read that it is dangerous for your amplifier to be around your subwoofer because the vibrations can wreck the insides of the amp. The amp is as close to the back of the trunk as could be, and if I had to move it im sure I would have to undo and cut and reattach all the wires and stuff and I dont know if I could do it correctly. What is your opinion on that?

#4 (and final, sorry about not knowin this stuff even though its basic ) Once I save up the money I want to get a sound deadener for my doors and I'm looking for cost efficiency on this too. I was going to try to buy dynamat on ebay when I find it cheap. I also saw that fat mat is extremely cheaper but was wondering about the quality of it...

Oh and one more thing! the subwoofer I got was a 12'' subwoofer and I planned to just buy an enclosure off of ebay. does any 12'' enclosure work? you just get the enclosure, stick the sucker in and thats it?

Thank you so much for all the help guys!

KaosTsoc

Yeeaahh... Dont ever go to Best Buy for intalls, they over charge alot. If you can do it yourself, that is the best, and cheepest route. All you need to do is do research befor you start. For the sub, yes getting a premade box for the 12 is fine, and yes it is a simple as wire up sub, put into box, screw sub down, then plug in wires from sub to amp. Done. Make sure the box is screwed done so it does not move. As for wire left over, what you have should be fine for wiring the sub to the box terminal, and then from the box termianl(s) to amp, however you will need another RCA to get the signal from the head unit to the amp. As for moving the amp, you can leave it where it is. Your concern about the sub rattling the internal workings of the amp lose is valid, but (someone please correct me if I am wrong) as long as the amp is not screwed to the actual box you will be fine.

Hope this helps, and I hope that there will other people that chime in as well. Always seems when I chime in everybody kind of shy's away. LOL, It's like I am infecting the thread with stupidy or something. I mean I am not as good as like Mac, or Arun, but I know a thing or two about a thing or two...LOL


Thanks.

dan553

Well I actually decided to sell the back 6x9s and get 1 pair of polk audio dxi 5250s. I will try my best to install them seeing as it will be my 1st component speaker install. hopefully theyll put out enough power to produce good volume if its just going to be those 2 speakers.

Also since i need another RCA cable to connect the head unit to the amp will this 1 be ok?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400246126446?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

The other 1 is a different cable will it matter if they are different even though they are both for the sub?

KaosTsoc

The different wires will not make any difference at all. As for wires though, there is a big debate on that subject. Do you buy high end wire, or just plain wire from like wal mart.. My thought on this is, it is going into a car, and the environment is very harsh. Alot of interferences, and what not. So, the one you have selected is good. It is not too high end, but it is not crap either. I like to get cables that are shielded or has good insulation. Worse case scenario would be run the cable under the carpert, and put the wire in a wire flum. Also as far as the deading of your door's, you really do want to do that. Rammat, Dynamat, Fat Mat are all going to do the same thing, and if I am correct. They are all made pretty much the same way.

dan553

Thanks a lot man, i appreciate the advice. I got a 12 SQ Ft pack of dynamat because I figured I would just try the front doors first and see how it went. Well, I must have bad like or something with this stuff cause it went horribly. For some reason my door (a 97 accord which i thought would be a pretty simple setup car compared to something newer), just does not look anything like the doors on the package. There are tons of deep dips and grooves (which werent rlly the problem), but lots and lots and lots of wires! Those darn wires kept **** me up. I eventually just made a couple small holes, pulled some through, and rolled it over the rest. It doesnt really looks pretty either. Its deffinitely not completely wrinkle free. I pushed down on it as hard as I could with a roller and tried to get it smooth but the wires push parts up, and another problem is, the place where the inner panel of my door connects to the actual metal part, there are lots of snaps that connect them together, but they are pretty far away from the edges, which means I was limited in how much surface area i could actually cover in the door. If you imagine my door as a rectangle, I covered about 5/8 of the whole door from the center. I just couldnt really get it to the outsides because of all the stuff that functions with the door. Hopefully tomorrows left door will go better. Here is a picture, sorry its poor quality.

I also got my polk dxi 5250s today and im excited to put them in tomorrow and I have a small question about the tweeters. I wanna flush mount the tweeters on the plastic panel but more near the sail panel. My question is, is there any way to angle these? Ive heard that its important to actually have them pointing at you, but If i put them in the side panel, they will just be pointing perpendicular from me towards the other door. I posted 2 pictures of my car door and if you see a good spot tell me. unfortunately most of the area thats right on top of the panel has metal parts right beneath it. Only that area further to the right near the sail plate has a bit more fat to it and empty area beneath it. Do you recommend there? Any opinions/suggestions?

Thanks a ton,
Dan

KaosTsoc

The dynamat never really goes well the first time you do it. Like I have said before though, before starting any project. Do some research, and try to find pictures from other people who have done it. It will give you a good idea of how it should look roughly. Covering about 5/8 of the door is typical, and it fact that is about how much I covered when I did mine. One suggestion though would be to do the door in segments instead of trying to lay the whole sheet down at once. Doing it in one whole sheet is a real pain. I learned that when I was doing my doors. The dips, and what not on the door is just something that happens, and will not look perfect, so dont sweat it. If you can get some card board, and make a template of the door,and wires, and where you want your holes, that would help too.

As for the tweeter placement alot of people like Mac for example would suggest to put them in the A piller instead of the sail. As for me, I am going to put mine in the sail panel as well, but in order to get them angled to fire toward you. You will need to fiberglass it to get the angle. I am going to use a local shop around my area, and have them do it for me. I have no idea how to work with fiberglass, and hear it is a pain. I am willing to spend the extra money for it, if that means it will be right.

Hope this helps.
Thanks.

dan553

I see,

I ended up putting the tweeter in the side panel of my door near the sail panel. It looks great but unfortunately it is not perfectly aimed towards me. It still sounds fantastic after testing the speakers. I installed the 2 front speakers and duct taped the crossovers to the dynamat/material covering the metal part of the door. I think when I do the drivers side door I am going to do it in segments. that sounds like a much better idea.

Couple last questions. The way my speakers were before, both front speakers went to channel 1 of my amp, both rear speakers went to channel 2. On my amp all I did was notice that in channel 1 there were two sets of positive wires and 2 sets of negatives. I removed all wires from channel 2 and then placed the extra set from channel 1, to channel 2. Does that sound like the correct process? Here is a picture of how it is now

The darker looking wires are the ones I disconnected (rears) and wrapped them with electrical tape.

I am going to be putting my 12'' subwoofer in and I am going to connect it to channels 3 and 4. Is that easy to do? I can only imagine that only 1 set of speaker wire comes with the subwoofer, meaning only enough for 1 channel. Do I need to get a second set and just connect them to the same connections on the subwoofer and the ends to channels 4 input too? Or can you do it with only 1 cable somehow. Also another important question is, This is what the back of my HU looks like right now

The right side inputs where the RCAs are plugged in says "Front Speakers", and the next 2 inputs just to the left say "Rear speakers/Subwoofer". the ones to the very left say Bus In. Anyways, For the RCA connecting the subwoofer to the HU, Do I use both the red and white input of "Rear/Sub"? I ask because i didnt know if only 1 was designed for the subwoofer since it also says "rear speakers"

Thanks a lot guys.
Dan

dan553

Also, do I need some kind of crossover for the subwoofer I am getting? It is a svc polk audio dxi 12'' subwoofer, but how will it know which frequencies to use if its only connected between the HU and amplifier with no crossover?

KaosTsoc

Ok. Lets see.... Doing the Dynamat in segements will be way easier, and if you over lap the pieces a little, that is fine too. Ideally you want tweets to fire pretty darn close to being on axis, or toward you. So if it is close, you should be fine.

One question I have about the speakers though. Are you running back speaker, or just the fronts? Oh, and are you using the supplied crossover that came with the DXI's?

As for the RCA rear/sub preouts. You will use the positive, and negative side like normal. The crossover part will be done via the HU, and then the amp. As for channels 3 and 4 you only need to use one of the channels for this. With the sub only being a SVC, I would venture to say that channel 4 will be the one to use, and should let you use the low pass filter.

By the way what amp do you have? So, I can look up the spec's on it really quick, and help you out better.

Thanks.

dan553

I am running just the front speakers. Ive been reading that a lot of people just use front speakers and a subwoofer because the rear speakers can cancel out the sounds of the front ones. For being smaller speakers, the dxi 5.25s really blew my mind for how loud they get and how clear they are, even with just the 2 front speakers. I cant wait to put the subwoofer in.

Yeah I am using the crossovers that came with the DXIs. Is that ok?

Another weird thing that I mentioned above but dont really understand, is back when I had regular speakers installed without an amp, I usually kept the volume around 20-22 on my head unit. Ever since my amplifier was installed, I have to turn the volume about to about 35-40 to get the same output. Is this normal? Is there a reason for that? Is it a sign somethings wrong?

Anyways, the amplifier I am using is a soundstorm SSL f4 800.http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17630_Sound-Storm-SSL-F4.800.html
The reason I thought about hooking up the subwoofer to 2 channels was because this amps RMS is 85 Watts, and Im afraid of damaging the subwoofer by underpowering it.

Also this is the speaker wire I was planning on using for the sub. It came with the power acoustik amp kit.

It seems to have a blue wire, and a yellowish wire inside the shielding, but I am not sure which is positive or negative. Is there a way to tell?

Thank you
Dan

arun1963

'Underpowering' won't hurt your speaker, giving it too much power will. You will drive a 4x20 watt amp and a 4x150 watt amp when you push it to make power than it can. A clipped signal will kill your speakers, yes.

KaosTsoc

Using the crossover that came with the speakers is good, no worries there. Using the first two channels for them is where you need to be. As for channels three and four that would be the one for the subs, and you could bridge it as well on those channels, and if you have the bass boost knob that is also from what I can tell for the sub channels three and four.

So, on channel 1 & 2 you put the crossover on full range and then adjust the freq according to what the speakers can manage. Look at the manual for the Dxi's to get a better idea on that. Putting the crossover on full range is fine because, the crossover that came with the Dxi's will divert the signal accordingly. Do not turn on the bass boost on these channels... It will make them sound more bassy, and muddy. Use the HU bass, trebel, and mid for that stuff.

Channels 3 & 4 is for the sub. I think you can bridge that to get more power, but I could be wrong. I sure I am right, but a little hazy on that.

Arun please help with this. Thanks.

At any rate if bridging the last two channels is good. Then plug in the bass boost control to the hole, then set your croosover to lass pass, and then adjust the freq. Now with this, anything that is higher then lets say... 40Hz should not pass through. In fact I would leave that at 40Hz, and call it even. Do not use the bass boost switch on this either. That is what the knob is for. This should be by the driver side of the car.

The volume issue is not at all bad. Basically what they do (Best Buy) is turn up your volume on the HU to roughly 80% max volume. They then adjust the gain, and they try to get this match what the HU is pushing out. They adjust it to where they hear audiable distrotion, then turn it down a bit. It keeps you from blowing your speakers. NOW THE GAIN KNOB ON THE AMP IS NOT VOLUME CONTROL. It is only used to match the signal that comes from the HU.

The over all idea is blend the sub with the front speakers so that they sound as one. I have a feeling that I may be off on some of things by a little bit. I have had an EXTREMELY wonderful weekend, and I am still thinking of this girl from the club so, yyyeeeaahhh my mind is kind of all over. LOL.