Can we improve or modify the RT800?

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Comments

  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,807
    edited October 2011
    Well, so far I can tell there is more detail but the caps need more burn-in time. The highs seem muted but I don't expect them to be as bright as before.

    I have read in a few places that the SA's need alot of time to burn in, 200-400 hours is common.

    Playing a CD I can tell it's clearer and more detailed, on the TT that's where the highs are not as bright.

    I can really turn it up and it remains very clear, more than stock so time will tell how much the highs open up.

    However since i'm thoroughly enjoying my recently acquired 2B's.....i'm going to stick the 800's in the spare room and let them play for a week or so. I'll update more after they get more hours on them.
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,807
    edited February 2014
    I received a PM about the upgrade and glad I did, I had put the 800's away since I had been using the 2B's...hard to believe it's been 3 years!

    I don't know how much time I have on them, but I would guess roughly 300 hours and that may not be enough.

    What I have noticed is the tweeters are very smooth, never really becoming harsh or overly bright.

    The thing that stands out is the emphasis on the midrange. Either the tweeter could use a slight boost with a .8 or .9 ohm or the caps aren't fully burned in. Another thought is it sounds like the crossover point shifted down slightly, just trying to give some sort of perspective. Granted the values didn't change so it would be safe to say the crossover points are the same, but sounds like there is more focus on the midwoofers than the tweeters.

    The bass seems slightly rolled off but again these aren't meant to play real low, the AVR is set to large with sub turned off as well.

    With those issues set aside, they are clear and smooth and play very loud, much louder than before and remain clean. Just need to figure out the pronounced midrange.
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,807
    edited February 2014
    I want to say I goofed this up. I can't believe I may have messed this up but I think I tried to jump the 8.2 across the circuit instead of the location of the 8.0.

    Can someone verify this? I don't know if where I have the new 8.2 is the same as removing the .2 but not sure. Does the 8.2 need to be in the same holes as the factory 8.0?
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2014
    Depending on the schematic, you can jump to the next component. One issue you may encounter are differences in resistance and slight changes to the balance of the speaker...
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • mar504
    mar504 Posts: 16
    edited February 2014
    Link to schematic: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18740&d=1155782632

    I tried both, and it didn't seem to make a ton of difference to me. It's funny because no I'm having the opposite problem as before, highs are there and loud, but no lows. I tried adjusted the tone setting on my AVR to absolute max bass and absolute minimum treble and it still leaves a LOT of bass to be desired.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2014
    Are you sure your speakers are wired in phase?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • mar504
    mar504 Posts: 16
    edited February 2014
    Nice!! That was it! I labeled the wires when I took the speakers out, but it looks like the previous owner had them wired out of phase. They are sounding great now!
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,807
    edited February 2014
    Looking at the pics I do remember now using a crappy iron at the time, one even looks like it barely has any solder. Not sure what I was thinking at the time but I'm going to redo those joints....they look pretty bad.
  • DarrenKozey
    DarrenKozey Posts: 5
    edited March 2014
    I have a pair of TSi300's and am looking for the schematic of the crossover.

    There is a link above to the RT800, so it seems the schematics are available somewhere; anyone know where?

    Thanks,
    Darren
  • DarrenKozey
    DarrenKozey Posts: 5
    edited March 2014
    So it seems there are a couple individuals collecting/archiving schematics and posting them in this forum.

    Unfortunately, I have not seen any schematics for the TSi series though.
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited March 2014
    Those TSi's probably have very few components. Pull the crossover out and take a look at the values. Looks like Trey (VR3) has modded some: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?135754-Polk-Audio-TSi400-and-CS10-Crossover-Modification-Thread
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  • DarrenKozey
    DarrenKozey Posts: 5
    edited March 2014
    Yeah. Looks like I will have to trace it out.

    I think these speakers have potential, but the crossover seems a botched design, i.e. electrolytic caps and magnetic core inductor. They sound too gritty/peaky in the mid-highs for my liking.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,001
    edited March 2014
    Not sure a 300 buck pair of speakers is worth the time and investment for new crossovers. Could be associated gear and cables as the reason you hear what you do ?
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  • DarrenKozey
    DarrenKozey Posts: 5
    edited March 2014
    Indeed. But I don't believe there will be much by way of investment nor time. I've tweaked crossovers before and the results were good. At the very least those electrolytics have to go. For about $100 or less, these could be great-sounding speakers. But I will let you know of the results. ;)
  • DarrenKozey
    DarrenKozey Posts: 5
    edited March 2014
    Here is the TSi300 crossover schematic as traced by me.