Tear in 6502 Monitor 5 replacement driver?

cnh
cnh Posts: 13,284
edited October 2011 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
So I'm sitting up in my office with some tissue paper and Elmers Rubber Cement. The time has come, after a year of watching my right mid-woofer exhale air through a 3/4" tear in the rubber surround because someone was not bright enough to take a razor and cut around the screw mount holes before trying to screw these in. Genius. That genius, somewhere before me, I bought them this way...sight unseen, tore a 3/4" sliver of the rubber surround where it meets the metal speaker casing/basket. And this, of course, screws with the bass response on that side because it leaks air.

Now, as you all know, I am NOT Mr. Fixit! I just recently performed my first soldering--which I had to learn about on youtube? Now, from posts on this site, I've decided to make the repair. Because of the location of the tear it is very hard to get it from behind, so what I've done is taken a piece of toilet paper (as suggested) coated the front of the surround where it meets the metal with Rubber cement, attached a 1" x 1/2" piece of toilet paper and then rubber cemented this...it's 'ugly' but it looks OK so far. Then I applied some rubber cement to the backside of the speaker. Put the speaker up to the light so I could see light through the crack and pushed the rubber surround 'gently' till I could no longer see any light. I will continue to apply a few more coats of rubber cement to the crease on the outside where the surround meets the casing. Then cut way some of the rubber so that we don't repeat our previous owner's brilliance and screw everything back in.

Sorry no pics on this....daughter has the camera! And I don't want to show off the very 'makeshift' nature of this repair....so much for resale value. lol But I'm not going to sell these in any case.

The question I have is 'how long' should I wait for the rubber cement to set before I put everything back together and test the speaker?

Thanks....! If it weren't for this site. I would never even attempt this kind of thing.

cnh
Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
Post edited by cnh on

Comments

  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2011
    I'd read the directions on the bottle. It should tell you what the handling time and then the cure or ready to use time is. I'm guessing a few hours.

    I repaired a hole in one of my MW's that I made when I poked it with a screwdriver! :sad:

    I used Loctite brand super glue made to be flexible when it dries. The hole wasn't as big as what you're describing. I couldn't glue it from the backside either, but it looks like it'll work. The flexibility of the rubber doesn't seem to have changed, and it doesn't "open" when I push on it.

    I ordered a replacement driver from Polk, and the repaired one is now a backup.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited October 2011
    Thanks! I suppose that the glue is dry by now! lol

    Also, and I should know this, but does Polk still sell replacement 6502 drivers? Mine says it was manufactured in 2004? Would be good to know in case the rubber cement disintegrates over time! Assuming that this is actually going to work in the first place, which we don't know yet because I off to a friend's house for dinner and won't test things till the 'morrow.

    I also just won a bid on an HK 730 twin power receiver that should be here in a week! Bet that will sound nice with a set of Monitor 5As!

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2011
    Call Polk CS at the toll free number in the upper right hand corner of the website. They'll answer your question. If you buy something from them be sure and mention you're a club polk member. That qualifies you for a discount + free shipping.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,436
    edited October 2011
    I believe Polk still has the MW6502. I was recently looking for one. I picked up a used pair and now have a spare that I could part with.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601