Bi-wre vs Quality Jumpers
cokewithvanilla
Posts: 1,777
I am trying to prepare the Sequels for the new panels. The current 11.5ga jumpers are quite a mess. I figure that I have two options: replace them with quality spade/spade jumpers or get another set of matching wires (those MIT ones from the b stock sale).
My amp, the 5800, has 2 sets of binding posts per speaker so I can reasonably bi-wire. Anyone have experience with this?
My amp, the 5800, has 2 sets of binding posts per speaker so I can reasonably bi-wire. Anyone have experience with this?
Post edited by cokewithvanilla on
Comments
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How much was the new panels ?
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I would go with the jumpers myself. I believe Russman had a deal where you donated some money to a fun and some guy made you a set of his jumpers.
If not Audioquest sells them for a decent price, or you can make your own using whatever cable and plugs you want.
Its easier to hide one length of wire rather than two.
What I did myself was to get a set of 14/4 Audioquest FLX wire so I can bi-amp or bi-wire my fronts with the same wire."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
EndersShadow wrote: »I would go with the jumpers myself. I believe Russman had a deal where you donated some money to a fun and some guy made you a set of his jumpers.
If not Audioquest sells them for a decent price, or you can make your own using whatever cable and plugs you want.
Its easier to hide one length of wire rather than two.
What I did myself was to get a set of 14/4 Audioquest FLX wire so I can bi-amp or bi-wire my fronts with the same wire.
I am talking from a sq perspective only. I can get matching wire for $50, or jumpers for nearly the same price. I don't hide my wires, so this isn't a concern. -
You will get various opinions on bi-wiring any type of speaker, even at the ML forum regarding your specific ESL speakers. Some folks bi-wire just to eliminate poor quality jumpers. Some folks use different wire for the highs and lows, claiming a difference. Speaker cables are sold with internal (one termination) and external (two terminations) bi-wire capability. Some say it depends on the amp.
I've only had one passive ESL speaker here, and couldn't tell a difference when horizontal bi-amping it with two SS amps (never tried bi-wiring one amp). Again, with ESL's it depends on the amp as the panels present a capacitive load to deal with. Same amp bi-wired, the amp deals with the same capacitive load.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
I prefer jumpers as it's cleaner, and you only have to run one length of wire. The way I used to do it was banana jumpers into the top of the binding posts, and then spade speaker cables that connected to the bottom.
I probably still have some 12AWG jumpers with cheap bananas if you want me to send them to you. They are nothing fancy, but a fair amount of copper for a solid connection. -
I prefer jumpers as it's cleaner, and you only have to run one length of wire. The way I used to do it was banana jumpers into the top of the binding posts, and then spade speaker cables that connected to the bottom.
I probably still have some 12AWG jumpers with cheap bananas if you want me to send them to you. They are nothing fancy, but a fair amount of copper for a solid connection.
Thanks for the offer. However, my speaker cables are banana plugs. This makes it so I need spade jumpers. My panels are coming in sometime this week (according to ML), so I might just have to use what I've got for a while.
